h100vw

It could have done the headlight switch or the dip switch on the column as well during your burnout. Have you done continuity checks through the system with a voltmeter? Gavin

I always used a 1/4 drive set to get easy access for those bolts. With a wobbly extension. Gavin

Make sure all the vacuum pipes are connected under the airbox and round the throttle body. I doubt you would need to adjust the mixture if it ran OK prior to your 'servicing' it. :mrgreen: For futurs reference, turning the 3mm allen key in the metering head clock-wise will richen the mixture and guess what turning it the other way does. You should do this with the engine off, as it'll probably stall anyway as you press it down. The Oil in the metering head is normal, just 100Ks worth of breather fumes. Clean with a cloth and some WD40 or brake cleaner, it it bothers you. The smell of fuel is that from the exhaust or under the bonnet? I'd have to recommend Andy Walker at PSI tuning near Stoke if you want a good mechanic. Gavin

For quicky1980, everyone else look away now. My £62 ebay Passat 1800 GT. A top car if a bit too red for my liking. :roll: Gavin

Here's one for you another VW. Any guesses what it is? I know you VR boys would like to see these numbers more often. :mrgreen:

Throttle switches maybe or the over-run cutoff valve under the inlet pipe?

It was a tooth out when I lined up the cam pulley with the mark on the cam cover. Glad I didn't just flip a coin anyway. Thanks for the assistance Gavin

I was just about to spin a coin...... I'll drop the cover on and make sure the belt pulley lines up and call it a day. Thanks fellas. Gavin

How old are the plug leads? Do they have the tin shields on them at the plug end. I have had a couple of cars miss in the past because those shields were helping to cause a short. I fixed a big miss on pickard1s G60 the other week by removing them. Is the exhaust really black? That could be overfuelling. I'd definately look at the output of the Lambda probe with a voltmeter. It will be a steady voltage climbing to 1 volt if you look with the engine stone cold. Once up to temp, the meter won't get a steady reading as the sample rate will be too low. It will appear to fluctuate between about .5 and a volt. The changes will be repeating pretty constantly. If you floor the throttle briefly the output will hold at a volt(rich) then drop to nothing(fuel cut off on the over-run) as the engines slows down. It'll start to cycle again once you get to 1500 revs. This is the fuel coming back in again. I don't feel the octane rating of the fuel is the problem. If it is running rich it could maybe be the blue temp sensor. Gavin

It's a while since I took one of the cams out and don't recall how close the marks lined up? Anyone agree it's ok or disagree and think its a tooth out????

Sounds like a factory fit scorpian to me. http://www.scorpionauto.com/keyfobs.htm two button remote. Gavin

93470 RADIATOR THERMO SWITCH General Use. Watercooled. Low Temp 85/80C 5.25 Bingo!

17646 THERMOSTAT-80C PA VR6 8/91 >12/96 8.25 Is that the one Steve? Not sure if the VR one is the same shape as the 8V cant see why it wouldnt be. Gavin Still looking for the switch

If I was putting a new engine in (and i've said this before) it would have the same number of valves as my favourite TV show! I watched 2 episodes on tape last night. We haven't got Sky so we don't get Jack! :( Back on topic. Keep throwing money at it, you know it makes sense!!! :lol: Gavin

ECU relay is on the fuse panel. I forget which one, just a plain old 4 pin relay IIRC. The hall sender can be got on it's own but a dissy change is far quicker and easier. Same on all digifant 8Valve engines don't pay extra for a 'G60' one. Gavin

They wont go on a 16v. How do you know its weak? Gavin

What year is the car?

I used to get symptoms like this on my Golf during/after trackdays. The tickover screw was coming out. It took the ECU quite a while to shut the ISV far enough to get the tickover back within limits. Winding it back in fixed it. Gavin

Are you talking about fitting the stem seals to the top of the guides? I have a pair of pliers for removing them, that will also put them back. Failing that, find a socket that they sit nicely in and use that with an extension, to push them down. Gavin

The sandwich plate is the bit where the oil comes out of the engine. Some have thermostats built in, others don't. http://www.thinkauto.com/images/oilstats.jpg Bottom lefthand one. Gavin

Valve guides on KR are not at their best after 100K. Unless you are going to do it all your self except for the guides you are looking at £100 to 150 quid to get started. If I were to be going down this road I'd consider getting another head prepared in advance. Then it would just be a swap over and the car would be off the road for less time. You still need to be prepared to shell out on an oil change, gasket kit, coolant flanges, damaged knuckles, tools etc. 150 quid buys a lot of oil or even another engine 8) Gavin

Thanks. :)

roo, G60s have a different dissy and don't suffer the same problems as a 16V. Sounds like a good deal to me though. Gavin

My money is on the hall sender in the distributor. But as they cost money, I'd have a look at the ECU relay first. Take the cover off it and check that all the soldered connections are clean and bright/shiney. Any dull ones should be touched up with a soldering iron. Over time the vibration in the car can cause the joints to fail followed by the relay. I have seen it happen plenty of times over the years. Gavin

Is the cam timing correct, does it have a lumpy cam fitted. Both will affect the peak boost you see. Boost pressure is more a measure of the restriction in the intake system than anything else. Gavin