wippy

i destoyed my corrado on sunday when i hit some mud on the road and before the insurance company get their grubby mits on the car i have removed the gladder, i am not trying to sell it just get an idea of what it would be worth, it was rebuilt at the end of 08 but was not put on a car till the end of 09 since then i have put no more than 7000 miles on it , it has a 70mm pulley and with a check valve fitted it was making 13psi it is in perfect condition but how much money do i now have sitting on my kitchen floor ?

today i mostly crashed and destroyed my g60 on a mud covered road!!! i am honestly very lucky to be alive smashed my head chest and leg but the raddo is totally destroyed :( :(

to be honest it has been doing some strange things recently . The heater fan has stopped for a couple of seconds and then started again so i will check the switch out. Thank you and ill let you know what i find

when cold the car runs lovely and once it is hot its also fine but if you park up for a few mins or get stuck in traffic then it starts playing up, its still fine when cruzing or normal aceleration but at wot the car will pick up but then hesitate for a fraction of a second then go then hesitate , its kind of a fast kangaroo, i have replaced the pipe to the ecu and adjusted the timing but no change, when it happens its not like a missfire on one cylinder, it seems like it shuts down completly for a fraction of a second, it seems to me like it could either be lead from coil to dizzy(checked but no problem) the coil breaking down when hot or could it be the injector wiring ( the wires for the plug are a bit crusty) what is puzzling me is that its not an intermittant problem as such as it plays up at no other time only when it has been sitting for a while getting hot so there must. be an obvious reason. any ideas would be much appreciated, i dont want to start spending loads of money on things if someone knows what the problem is thanks

is the 2ltr 8v head the same as the g60 one ? i am only asking as the head on my car at the moment has seen better days and needs to be replaced, i have a 2ltr 8v from a mk3 sitting in my garage and was going to rebuild it to fit on the g60 if it is the same

for some reason 11 oclock comes into my head

i had a look today and it is squirting from the side of the core plug, it has not popped out so i am hoping the block has not corroded !!! i shall bang a new one in and keep my fingers crossed if not i may have to pop in the mig brazing wire and fizz it around the edge. thank you for your help mate it saved me some poking about :salute:

I went out for a drive today just to the garage to fill up and on the way home my water light came on. i thought it may be the water takeoff o the right side of the head because i had to fix this before but no it is coming from underneath the exhaust manifold, it is a G60 with a fair few miles on it but does anyone know if this is a common problem and what it coud be before i start ripping it apart ? thanks

blue smoke is oil being burnt mate , if it was undurnt fuel it would be black, that could be caused by worn rings or valve guides/seals, if you get a puff of blue smoke in the morning when you start it or is left ideling for a while then i would suspect it was the guides/seals, things to check would be , timming, compression and boost pressure, if you dont know anything about the charger then its always best to get it rebuilt, if you are going to do it yourself then im sure there will be a guide on here somewhere, as for the stalling problem give your isv a clean and check that it is functioning correctly and that the pipes are in good condition

if you get it rebuilt properly about 350-400 squid , you dont say what type you have but im guessing its an 02a in which there are many that will fit although ratios will be different depending which engine the replacement is off

had twin 40's on a 2ltr 16v in a mk 1 and it was awesome really nice to drive and if you set it up properly mpg wont be much different (unless you have a heavy right foot) its all about the noise :D , the only problem i had was carb icing in the winter but as long as you let it warm up and dont wot for to long it will be ok

lol not upset i just get a lot of people coming to me to get stuff fixed after garages have quoted silly amounts of money to replace them, by what you have said yours is proper mangled but still these things can be repaired although if you have to pay someone to do it a new one would probably be more cost effective, i have a new crank bolt sitting in front of me right now waiting for me to get time to fit it, perhaps i will find time tomorrow after reading this :D

Jesus Christ !!!!! a new crank what the hell has happened to the world , i cannot believe that nobody can repair anything anymore they just throw the old away and replace it, i understand that not everyone is able to repair things but so called garages???? if it happened to mine it would be a few zapps with the welder out with the file and back on the road in a few hours, it really angers me , where the hell have all the skilled people gone????? Rant over :D

just started doing this today ,it starts and runs fine but when you put your foot flatout it cuts out for half a second then goes again then cuts out ect ect its not miss firing on one cylinder but all of them , i dont now if anyone has had a turbo jap car before but it feels like my old 200sx when it hit fuel cut from running to much boost. i am thinking it may be one of a few things , dodgy coil , dodgy lead (from coil to distributer) or dodgy hall sensor, or could it be a fuel problem ? Has anyone had this problem before s i dont go changng things that dont really need replacing :salute:

someone has saved me the trouble :salute:

i do the same , you need to run the pipe to the bottom of the bay because otherwise the oil vapour fumes will start to pi$$ you off

ill have a look at mine later and take a pic mate

when your box is cold the oil will be too, meaning more friction so the lay shaft will probably not be spining or maybe only slightly, so reverse will go in fine, when the gearbox warms up the oil is much thinner so less friction so the layshaft will be spining quicker(in theory this should not happen because the clutch is dissengauged but it will always drag slightly) so when you go to put it into reverse the grinding is the gears trying to mesh. one thing to check is that your clutch is working properly, if it is hydraulic try bleeding the gearbox cylinder.

you would be much better off running throttle bodies, either way you would need a head with welded up injector ports , wana buy mine lol

right i have just unplugged it totally and it drives exactly the same so im guessing mine has bit the dust

just to clarify lads, my isv is opening at .5 bar, is too much knock/faulty knock sensor the only thing that would cause this?

thanks for all your help and info fellas , i will swap the chip back and give that a go

its the full throttle switch mate

You need a thick piece of cable to do this, use a decent quality jump lead or similar gauge cable. No kidding, this needs to carry close to 200 amps. Bell wire will burn through before you've had time to drop the cable, shout "christ that's hot", and jump up and down blowing on your fingers. sorry i think i worded this slightly wrong , i didnt mean the main power feed to the motor but to the solenoid, mine is around 2.5-3mm thick, if the starter works when you do this , then there is something wrong with your feed , if the starter still does not engage then you probably have a faulty solenoid/starter, sorry for the missunderstanding

yea sounds to me that its sticking a bit mate