AlexDG

Si, Could I have the last one if still available?

Si, Could you add my name to the list for the next batch? Thanks.

How do you drive it? Using the loud pedal enthusiastically will reduce the MPG significantly. Is it regularly serviced, has everything been changed iaw schedule? Other than that being stuck on the cold running map this time of year will cause reduced MPG. Either faulty thermostat or temp sender can cause this (if thermostat the engine really will be 'cold' and will show as such on the gauge). Binding or dragging brakes will also cause MPG to fall, especially if all corners are in need of a refurb. Have you checked for any engine fault codes. I dare say there are a multitude of other things it could be, but I think they are the main ones. ---------- Post added at 10:15 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:14 AM ---------- Thanks for the offer, but I am in the 4x4 most of the time now that the winter weather is with us so it won't be a problem getting the existing injectors out and sent away.

So getting this back on topic... ...your local motor factor should be able to supply OE spec shocks and springs.

Generally speaking coilover sets will be setup with stiffer springs and higher damper rates than standard. The Corrado is not as compromised in standard form as many other cars because the standard setup is actually pretty good, obviously it has its limitations but then so does running a stiffer setup. Mine (not surprisingly) is standard, albeit totally refreshed (incuding all bushes with new rubber items) a couple of years ago and handles fine, the only real limitation is multiple direction changes close to the limit, which can overwhelm the shocks, but this is a minor aspect of the driving I do. I wouldn't run coilovers at the same height as standard without making sure the spring and amper rates are appropriate, the standard suspension 'give' will allow a dynamic change to the CofG (amongst other things) at the extreme of the handling characteristics and actually helps grip at the limit.

I fitted a used one, a gamble true, but I don't know of anywhere that does reconditioned ones and as mentioned earlier new from VW is about £2k. Obviously if reconditioned are available it would be the way forward...

Yes Yes

Sounds remarkably similar to the fault code I had which was: '00275 - ABS Outlet Valve, Right Rear (N135)', this code pointed to an error with the valve in the hydraulic controller in the engine bay. As far as I can ascertain there is no easy way to fix this because it is related to the electrics inside the controller (I have one partially disassembled and there is no obvious way of accessing the electrical gubbins easily). Just so that we are clear the controller I am talking about is the component in the engine bay with all the brake lines connected to it, not the ABS ECU. Hope that helps?

'front left valve fault' sounds suspiciously like a vagcom fault text that points towards a failure in the ABS controller (which is as far as I can tell is caused by a failure of the PCB ribbon inside the controller). The only fix as far as I am aware is to replace the controller, but don't bother with new they are about £2k! Do you have a fault code to confirm?

Thanks for meeting up part way, I'm very pleased with the seats and makes the Corrado a more pleasant place to be! As requested a picture of the weekend car attached.

Do I understand correctly then that you are selling the heated seat loom? If yes I would be interested in the loom, switch and relays.

Starting was worse when cold on mine, though rough running and stalling happened both hot and cold. I haven't taken the time to understand the logic behind the symptoms and why a fuel filter change fixed it. It could be that the similarity of symptoms is a coincidence, but since it is a service item and relatively cheap job to do it has to be worth doing to rule it out? I cleaned the ISV prior to changing the fuel filter and it made no difference (it had been cleaned a few months prior to the fault as well).

Have you changed the fuel filter (next to the rear O/S wheel) recently? It may sound mad, but I had identical symptoms, and at the time changing the fuel filter was on my to-do list, so figured since the fault was either fuel or ignition related I may as well change the filter to rule it out...it resolved the problem (this was the only thing I changed).

Checked that and as far as I can tell the wires are still neatly out of the way. Interestingly after giving the mechanism a good drowning in WD40 followed by PTFE based grease it hasn't played up since...I expect now that I have said that, next time I go to the car it will have unlocked itself again!