V33DUB

I'll take the wheels if monkeynut doesn't have them. Can collect. Cheers

So are the VR6 ones different to the rest or is the difference between early and late models? After a slam panel for my 8v. Cheers

Anyone got slam panel, front bumper and passenger wing in either Aqua or Mystic blue? Need to be damage/rust free but paint condition is not important. Seen an Aqua for breaking on here but the bumper has just been resprayed and seems a shame to take them and respray them again! cheers

Indeed but you never know could get lucky and be right place right time! Cheers for the info on spraying though will bare that in mind if the right colour doesn't show up soon.

Well it looks like I may be leaving the corrado world for some time! Until blame has been established (which could take up to 2 months apparently) I lose my no claims and my excess and with 2 years driving and no NCD my insurance has rocketed through the roof. A 1.0l Corsa is now coming out at the same price I was paying on the 8v with 2NCD :( If my insurers legal team can't pin blame on the third party then it's likely to be bye bye corrado for the next few years. I have to say though, I just love the feeling of being screwed for something that wasn't your fault!

I find it firm but forgiving. You can deffinitely feel bumps a lot more than the standard set up but then again that was ageing when removed... If it hadn't been touched it'd done 120k! KW's have definitely improved handling as well. Will try get some pics up

Well I'm guessing (using genuine new parts), a headlight & surround, fog, indicator and surround, wing, slam panel, bumper and bumper with paint and labour on top that it was a pricey insurance repair? Like Tom said above I don't think being a CAT C repaired will affect it's value massively and I'm probably better off financially with £1400 + the car to repair myself. Never been in this situation before so I'm finding it hard to call. I dunno if breaking it, adding that money to my £1400 and then adding some more from savings and holding out for a better example around the £3000-£4k mark may be the way to go? I mean I think C5OEM's green one went for around £4k recently didn't it and that was in much better condition than mine (different models granted). A couple more around that price range and standard are floating around or have recently gone to new homes too. Decisions, decisions! A big factor in what I do will depend on how my insurance is affected. As I've said, doing some quick quotes on the comparison sites it seems to go up by about £300 regardless of being 50/50 or non-fault. With less than 3 years driving under my belt it may be time to drive something boring for a bit until my premiums drop :(

As title, specifically, slam panel, both wings and bonnet. After a rear hatch as well as long as it's in rust free condition. Cheers

Yep Cat C. Am gonna see how much it'll cost to repair and weight up the options. Can either fix this one and put the rest of the money into it or break it and put all the money into a looked after other one off here. Not sure which route to go yet?

That's what I was thinking but I'd kinda built myself up for a fight and to reject the first valuation but there was no fight and a decent valuation. Kinda knocked me off stride!

Interesting info about the camera RW1! Will be looking into this! Had a call from a loss assessor working for Highway today. Basically my car is a total loss. He asked a few questions about condition and mods. Asked how much I thought it was worth. Put on the spot I said "£1500-£2000 maybe but there isn't many for sale, especially 8v's". He said, "yeah well I've got exactly that figure down here, £1700 is about the top I can go". I didn't really know what to say? Seems like a decent price. I asked about the suspension change as the KW kit cost me a fair whack and it was on the insurance as being worth £200 and I was told would be factored into the cars value. He said £1700 is still as high as he'd go. All seemed a bit too simple and set in stone. I wonder if it just happens that the price was decent or if I'd pushed I couldv'e got more? I'm not really sure how much a clean 8v with desirable mods is worth? Keeping the salvage for £300 as well though. It's not very clear if this claim is going down as the third parties fault or not however. Need to speak to Highway to confirm what's going on!!

So I've got the Terms & Conditions for the £10 Insurance cover I took out with Drive Assist to cover me should they not be able to recover the costs of the hire car from the third party. Usual hard to understand 'financial' language but one bit that stood out is that I'm not covered should the accident be my fault. Now I know it wasn't my fault but the lack of witnesses (well ones I have details for at least) and the fact Ali was, at best, of questionable honesty after refusing to give me many details at all, I can see a big "50/50' neon sign on the horizon which I'm guessing by the word of the law, me half at fault and so half the hire car costs to be paid by me. I've gotta phone Drive Assist today to get this confirmed but I feel I've been misled and ill informed from the beginning of this kerfuffle! Also found out from research that my insurance will go up regardless of whether the accident goes down as non-fault, 50/50 or my fault. Pretty much by the same amount. Or at least it does when typed into the comparison sites with different details. You legally have to report any accident to your insurer and regardless of whether you even make a claim, regardless of fault, the very fact you've been involved in one, most insurance companies will raise your premium as you are viewed to be "more at risk" as you've had an accident. From a pessimistic, 'don't believe the insurance companies will fight that hard on my behalf', if the claim goes down as 50/50 I have to pay and not recover my £350 excess. Then there's the devaluation of an accident repaired vehicle, even more so if they write it off and I can buy it back as a cat c or d. Whatever the outcome of this, I'm out of pocket and probably by a few hundred pounds. I really can't help but feel that this is just another "screw you" that this country has to offer. No matter what kind of driver you are, unless you're lucky enough never to have an accident or claim, you end up getting bent over and buggered! Rant over, I'm off to look at sponsored jobs in Australia!

Pretty much what I'm planning. The bloke I spoke to at Highway said their shouldn't be a problem with buying the salvage back. Been quoted £400 to spray the front end. Will need a headlight, wing, slam panel, fog, indicator though so depends what I can get the second hand panels for.

Monday mornings. We all love 'em. Monday just gone started with the usual hatred for breaking my sleep and leaving my house to go to work after 2 days of freedom. About 200 metres from work I was driving along a reasonably busy but not wide or straight road approaching a junction on my left. A car was waiting to turn right into it and a car waiting to turn right out of it. I'm about 10 metres away at the moment. The driver waiting to turn in across my path saw me and stopped. The driver turning out, acknowledged her position, head turned towards her. I'm about 5 metres away now. Still looking towards her he goes and pulls right out, glancing my way once about halfway across my path. Wet road. Older brakes. 3 metres or so of distance and the outcome was inevitable. Doing my best to avoid him I tried steering to the right but because of the other car there wasn't much room for manoeuvre. Because of this I hit him nicely with the corner of my car, just to maximize panel damage cos that's what I love to do on a Monday morning! Busy junction and every witness drove off. I had by now clocked that the car that pulled out infront of me was a taxi. Pulled over and the driver was most unforthcoming with details. He gave me his name... Ali... nothing more, nothing less... refused to give a phone number. I took his reg, taxi firm, driver number, picture of both cars and damage and went the rest of my journey to work. Headlight, indicator, fog, wing, slam panel and bumper bar (if this is seperate to the slam panel) all shafted. Crack in his bumper, that's all. Reported the incident to Chris Knott who took down the details and passed me over to Drive Assist. I had no previous knowledge of Drive Assist or what they do so just (naively probably) went along with it all. They offered me a hire car and explained they claim the cost back off the other driver. I was dubious about Ali and his honesty or insuredness (is that even a word?) and so was wary about this but the guy offered me a £10 one off insurance that covers me should they not be able to get the money of the other driver. He then asked if I'd like them to handle the claim. By now I'd worked out that this was a third party no doubt money making company and told him I wanted my insurance company to handle that. He said he'd let them know that and all was done. Yesterday I received a BMW 1 Series as my hire car. £133 per day rental. I read up online about Drive Assist. Didn't fill me with much confidence it has to be said! Hadn't heard anything from the insurance so today I phoned Chris Knott again who swiftly put me through to my insurer, Highway. It became quickly clear that Highway had no record of such incident and so went through all the details again. I now have an 'authorised repairer' contacting me to assess the damage. I'm pretty damn confident it will be written off :( I've double checked with Drive Assist and they say the £10 waiver covers me should they not be able to collect the hire car cost off the third party but I'm really unsure to this! I've requested the terms in writing, awaiting their receipt. The other driver, although at fault did not accept blame at the scene and no blame has been assigned as yet, but they are renting me a £133p/d car and if they cant get the money off the third party all I pay is £10! Seems fishy as a fish monger on a fishing boat in fishy waters to me!! Between Chris Knott and Drive Assist they have been nothing short of confusing and unsupportive. 1 call to Highway and I have a booking for a damage assessment and things seem to be progressing!

Pretty much what Kip said.

Resurrecting an old thread but was looking for info about 288mm brakes on a 4 stud. Lotus Elise discs are 288mm and 4x100. Can't find info about bore or whatever and I'm not entirely sure what it would all mean but might be something for someone whis looking to put 288mm discs on a 4 stud and who has more knowledge to look into?

Ok so my ady 8v engine doesn't seem to have an isv. Can't see one and according to the Haynes manual it's controlled by simos 4s engine management rather than digifant (2E engine code). ISV is listed in the digifant instructions but not the simos. Got a temp sender, black and green 2 pin listed for the ady engine. Turns out mines a 4 pin black and yellow, listed on etka as for the 2E engine. Right mongrel engine mine! Haha Anyways started to check things today until it started ****ing it down! I took off the air box and maf. Engine runs a lot smoother without them. Does this suggest the maf is the source of my woes or at least rule out anything? Relays are warm after running for half hour so I'm guessing they're fine. Going to remove, clean and check the throttle body tomorrow. Along with checking the leads, plugs, dizzy etc

Cheers people! Ok so... 1 - Replace the temp sender on the front plastic water flange on the head 2 - Replace plug/leads/dizzy cap and rotor arm 3 - ISV, it's at the back of the head above the inlet manifold.... What exactly am I checking for? 4 - Check the throttle potentiometer with a multimeter... Got the Haynes manual for the Golf which covers my engine... will the location, removal of this be in there? Thanks again, very helpful

Ok so I've searched around this forum and (my corrado being an 8v) on the golf gti forum. Problem: In the last week my car has developed a problem where it is lumpy / rough on idle. The needle move a little up and down but not massively but you can hear and feel that its lumpy. On pulling away there is a definite lack of power / umph. This lasts for about a minute and then all it runs ok until the next set of lights / stop. It seems to be worse at the beginning of a journey. Because of the lack of power I have to really put my foot down to move and there is a slight smell of burning, not overpowering, no smoke etc but a slight smell and this is not on every occasion but I've noticed it a couple of times (could be completely unrelated and as there are other cars on the road could even be one of them!). What I've found so far: ISV - I don't believe my 8v has one? Throttle Body - Cleaning. Also I've read that the 16v throttle body has wires that can break, fail... is the 8v the same? ECU Temp Sender Fuel Pump Relay ECU Relay Oil Breathers Check Earthing points Do any of these jump out at anyone as being the problem or is there something completely different? Cheers as always guys

Guess what I found today?! haha I patched up a couple of other places in the last few weeks, that has started to surface rust, with some Por15. Today I notices the edge of the underseal has started to come off at the front edge of the rear arch... bit of pulling and walah!... found a nice little hole about the size of a 5pence piece. Bad times!

Ok so I got rid of my pants pioneer dolphin swimming head unit and bought an alpine IDA300. I can connect my ipod straight up and so was a happy chappy. Then my rear speakers stopped working. I had the head unit out to see if it was a loose connection as everything at the speaker end seemed ok. Then everything went a great shape of pear. My rear speakers still had no sound at all but my front speakers are all distorted even when the sound is pretty low. Kinda like a badly tuned radio or interference rather than clipping but it only happens once turned up past 11 on the head unit. At 10 the sound is undistorted. All the connections at the brown connector block are good as are the connections at the speakers. Any ideas what's causing this?

I've got a new brown connector block for the stereo loom as mine was mashed with various bodging over the years, however I need the metal spade/tabs that go on the end of the wires before they're pushed home into the block. What are these called and where do I get them from? Many thanks. Jon

The rubber seal in the cap had somehow god lodged in the thread. A good grip with a pair of mole grips and some jiggery pokery got it free. WOO!

I\ve searched the forum but only found stuff about the flap. The flap opens fine but the screw cap makes the same clicking/locked sound when turned anticlockwise to open as it does when turned clockwise. Any ideas why it wont come off?

Ello! My drivers side door handle seems to want to part company. The whole unit is loose and if not slid towards the back of the car before opening, the whole shebang comes out of the hole in the door. How does it fix to the door? I've searched the forum and the only thing I can find is something about a white clip/clamp that attaches to the door and the handle then attaches to the clip. Sound likely or is there another solution? I did consider investigating the fixing on the passenger side but then a little voice in my head said "if it aint broken for f**ks sake leave it alone"!!!! Thanks as always ;)