V33DUB

Ah! Thank god you lot know what you're talking about! haha Is the hall sender the thing attached to the side of the dizzy? Cheers

Doesn't the coil just affect the start though? It starts every time. It's the running that's rough/not right.

The trusty 8v has decided that snow is not for her and she's thrown a hissy fit. Started off with a judder on acceleration, as if in too high a gear, struggling kinds thing. This progressed to sounding like a tractor and for want of a better word 'suffocated' feeling... hard to rev high. Felt down on power and the judder was still there. Eventually it was spluttering, back firing and the engine was bouncing around like a metal gummy bear. There was also a clicking/tapping noise.. regular... every couple of seconds. So far... Relays all checked (think 30 and 167 are the ones that can cause such running issues but both seem to be fine) Unplugged MAF and it ran much worse so I'm thinking that's working ok? Throttle body was cleaned not that long ago and when it was it was pretty clean anyway. Lambda sensor was changed last year with a new genuine one. Checked all the hoses I can see and all seem to be split free and the ends are all clamped on. Replaced the vacuum hose from the throttle to the fuel rail. Cleaned up all the wires by the 2 earthing points on the block and all seem to be sound. The wires from the sender on the dizzy (hall sender I think) seem to be ok I checked the HT leads and one wasn't working so replaced the set. This didn't seem to make much difference. I'm no mechanic but seemed to me like it should've at least improved things? Double checked the new set and all are working and all spark plugs are working. The plugs are pretty black and sooty so I'm guessing it's running rich? Got a new set in the post so will pop them in when they arrive. I found a brand new dizzy cap and rotor arm that I had lying around so put them on. Fired her up and sounded much better. Engine wasn't juddering as much, clicking/tapping noise seems to have gone... 5 mins later and it was sounding bad again... not quite as bad as before but not good. Sounded a bit like it was hunting and every now and again was like it was going to cut out but never did. Took her for a short drive, sounded like a wounded tiger, really throaty roar which came and went, juddered still on acceleration but intermittent between that and running ok. Any ideas on what to do next before I give up and book it in at a garage? Cheers for any pointers ;)

Still after the centre tunnel mate. Lower, underneath part. Cheers

Aint this the one that was on Pistonheads a few months back... think Billcor put it up on here then. That was an old(er) lady selling it... seem to remember it being an N reg 16v with around the same millage. From what I recall it sold for £2500ish. Can't see its worth the new asking price!!

Cheers Just need: Centre tunnel (under handbrake part that runs to the rear bench) (for a humped hear bench) in black. White Clips from the inner scuff/carpet strips. Think there are 6 a side? I need all but 2 each side so 8 in total. Door Card Screws... the 2 from the outer edge and 1 for the inner. The domed screws that hold various trim parts such as dash under trays... need about 6. Anyone who's got all or some please get in touch

Pretty desperate for these now... Anyone? Cheers. Jon

Really? I can't seem to find them? Do you have a link please?

Would prefer UK based really but tar for the link. Anyone?

Any joy?

Bump

Cheers Stu, let me know.

I've got a red passenger side one with no rot... Very little surface rust on the lip but solid... http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?73233-Early-Bumper-amp-Wing-Late-Slam-and-Late-Badgeless-Grille

Need the following... Centre tunnel (under handbrake part that runs to the rear bench) (for a humped hear bench). 4 Carpet Screw/Caps... the longer ones used in the front footwells. White Clips from the inner scuff/carpet strips. Think there are 6 a side? I need all but 2 each side so 8 in total. Rear Quarter Panel clips... need 4 Door Card Screws... the 2 from the outer edge and 1 for the inner. The domed screws that hold various trim parts such as dash under trays... need about 6. Cheers Jon

Do you have the centre tunnel (under handbrake to rear bench hump bit)?

They seem to be pretty indestructible. I haven't spent much on mine in the 2 and half years I've had it. I reckon in the region of 2.5k so roughly £800 a year. Probably only 1/3rd of that has been essential fixes such as broken headlight switch, faulty temp sender, brake compensator etc etc. The rest has been personal choice that I'd most likely do to another car. So what, £300 a year on road worthy maintenance. Considering the depreciation value on the price I paid is either slow or stagnant I'd take that as a win. I have friends with much newer cars that have cost much more to maintain/fix and depreciate in value quicker than Usain Bolt if he really tried to run fast... and I'm talking run of the mill a-to-b boring drives. Granted, to keep costs down, it's pretty essential that you be willing to get your own hands dirty now and again. There are cars I'd rather have, but in the price range, all things considered, for me, nothing comes close. ---------- Post added at 8:15 AM ---------- Previous post was at 8:07 AM ---------- I should probably footnote that comment with 'at the moment'... I am generally less impressed with having to fiddle than I was 2 years ago and it seems as you get older, time becomes more precious (I'm also sure there is less of it! Day's used to last forever and now weeks fly by!).

Need 2 but would take a full set most likely. Need to be in excellent condition. Thank you please

I'm after the number plate light mate ;)

I'll take it please.

Having recently done this I'd say removing them is pretty easy. There's loads of info on here on how to remove the centre tunnel, handbrake handle etc. Front seats, dash undertrays, footwell trim, rear bench will also need to come out which are all easy enough. Just make sure you keep a note of where all the trim and clips go... I used freezer bags and took photos... amazing the stuff you think you wont forget but do! And more than likely some will be missing or will break so good plan to make a list of needed replacements. Make sure you've got a good day of weather. Took me most of the day to remove everything, clean, leave to dry and put back in. If you're looking to change colour, I'd wait and do it when you have the carpet... like I said, not a technically difficult job but time consuming!

Rain, rain and more rain. Eventually got most of my interior back in with the help of some dryer weather! I chucked away the old under carpet rubber and felt sound deadening pads as they were old, smelly, falling apart and generally minging! They virtually crawled themselves to the bin. I bought some 2.5mm EPDM Rubber, some 20mm polyester padding stuff and some 3M Thinsulate 25mm acoustic deadening. Searched the net quite a bit and the thinsulate stuff seems to have got good reviews. Hopefully these materials should get less manky than the felt padding. Probably got this all wrong but never done anything like this before so read a bit and took best guesses. I used the old pads for templates and cut 1 layer of polyester and 2 of the rubber. Used 3M ultra strong spray adhesive to hold them all together. I cut a slightly larger bit of the thinsulate and put this on the floor first with the new pad on top. The thinsulate I got didn't have the black scrim (which I had got that one now!). The white bit is pretty fragile. Sure people walking past my drive thought I was cutting up a duvet like a crazy person! Reinstalled my carpet, made a note of clips, screws and stuff that were broken or missing. The new stuff I put in is thicker so carpets are more spongy but not weirdly so and everything still fits properly... feels kinda cosy (if that makes sense?). Now I have drove the car for about 2 weeks with no carpet, no centre tunnel, no rear seats and no passenger seat so it could be the change since putting the carpet and some trim back in but I cant ever remember the cabin being so quiet! The engine and exhaust are definitely more of a deep muffled sound. Bought some Felt tape and stuck it on every bit of trim I could. Should help some squeaks die. Before putting my carpets etc back in I ran my amp power cable, RCA lead and speaker cables through the car. Some info that might be of use to people doing it for the first time (sure this info is all on here somewhere but can't hurt and saves numerous trips to get stuff you find you need after starting!)... Grommets for the holes the wires are going through. I used a 25mm blanking one for the amp wire through the bulkhead. I ran the wires through larger holes in the metal underneath the rear bench... need to get grommets for this but think they are 30mm (will confirm). Cut a cross in it, put the wire through and then, once everything was in its final resting place, a bit of extruded butyl rubber to hold (sure silicone will do but the rubber is less messy and removable/reusable). Self adhesive cable clips - I used ones from halfords (medium size). Found them neater and easier than holding wire in by tape or whatever. I ran speaker cable down each door side using the loom path/clips that are already there but the RCA and Power wire ran either side of the centre tunnel and needed some form of holding in places. Speaker cable - From my amps position on the drivers side of the boot, I used 5m each side. Seems impossible when you imagine 5m and look at the car but it's what went in! I sound deadened both doors in my own unique fashion. A combination of Brownbread and Dynamat Extreme bought cheap off ebay auctions over a few months. I saw a thread somewhere, at some point, on some forum about making door baffles for the Corrado for standard size speakers... I (half) followed and now have something vaguely similar. MDF, a bit of fibreglass filler and some sound deadening with a strip of closed cell foam on all edges to seal against the door nicely. The door card and plastic pocket/cover needed cutting but from the outside once back together looks completely standard (other than the positioning of my crossover in the door pocket). I wasn't thrilled about covering all the access holes in the door with dynamat and so opted to uses some perspex held in place by butyl rubber. Still seals the holes but is easily removable. Made a perspex panel covered with dynamat for the large access. Cleaned the inside of the doors, allowed to dry and waxoyled them. After pondering the mirror triangle trim, the pillars and the door cards, I opted to keep the dash location for the tweeters. I reused the mounting clips from the standard units and made some mdf holders (check out the precise jigsaw skills there! they wont be seen though so nee bother to be). The dome of the tweeter grills didn't fit under the stock corrado grills so I whipped them off and replaced with some acoustic speaker material.

I'd be interested

Saw this and thought it wasn't a bad price... http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_819683_langId_-1_categoryId_237503

Sorry.... little sleep and not explaining myself well! the underneath part (which is only visible at the back where the ashtray etc is)... that one! Cheers Jon

I want to drill my drivers side boot wall to secure an amp rack. Problem is I'm not sure of what's behind or how to find out without completely dismantling my car. Any advice or pics would be much appreciated. Anywhere I can drill a hole would be great... 2 ideally, one near the rear of the car/petrol flap and one nearer the rear seat/front of arch. Cheers Jon