tony_ack

I'd love to say I'm getting loads done in lockdown, but with three kids, working full time at home (which I'm very grateful for), and my wife running her business, I'm just about managing to eek out an hour on some evenings after the baby has gone to bed. I've got the car on axle stands now to tackle some of the jobs that need doing. Rattly exhaust/back of car - still not sure this is sorted after 2 times in the garage. Think there is also an issue with a rotten rear bumper iron and missing rear bumper bracket which may be causing some of the knocks. Hot start woes - it was behaving itself on the whole, but I'm planning to give the intake a good clean out and check for air leaks, plus install a non-return valve near the fuel pump. There's also an issue on cold starts where it will turn over and not fire. This is the same crank sensor issue that I've had for 8 years - a little wiggle of the wire soon cures it! Starter not engaging/disengaging correctly - seems to have cured itself with regular use, but the starter is looking very crusty. Looks like a fairly easy job to change from underneath, and I have a Golf V5 starter in the garage Getting the kids in and out is a ballache - Solution to this is leave the kids at home Temp gauge not working New yellow (actually brown 4-pin) sensor. The gauge is working but doesn't get much above 90. I still need to fit the new wiring plug, the pins are just connected directly to the sensor at the moment. I've just changed the coolant too. Oil temp works when it wants - Fixed, new sender! NSF knock - I discovered the passenger outer CV boot had split. I took out the driveshaft, and half of the inner CV joint stayed in the diff. I tried to reassemble, but there was no movement in the joint (as in it didn't move up/down/left/right as it should), so I got a new inner CV joint. I'm wondering whether the old joint was on the verge of failure and was causing the clunk - the clunk started not long after I changed the slave cylinder, and I did originally think that either the slave cylinder wasn't secured properly or something around there was responsible for the noise. I'm also planning to change the ARB bushes and ARB droplinks. The ball joints and track rods look okay and have been replaced fairly recently Scatty idle, sometimes I hope the intake cleanout will cure this Squeaky front brakes - right I stripped down the brakes on that side a few weeks back, greased the slide pins (they are 288s, so the pins slide into the rubber boot), and checked caliper movement, and all seemed okay. As I rotate the wheel and disc, it turns freely except for a bit of resistance with pad against disc for about 1/8 of the rotation. I'm pretty sure this is the cause of the squeak and vibration, but I'm still working out what's casuing the resistance. I've bought some new discs (which I was hesitant to do as the ones on the car have only done about 1500 miles in the last 3 years), and fitting them to see if they make a difference. I read somewhere that retaining screw (which on mine, like most others, has broken off) stud can sometimes poke out the tiniest bit and raise the disc slightly, which would cause the symptoms I've got. Who knows. I'm also part way through changing the front backing plates. On both sides, one of the bolts have sheared off, leaving the stud stuck in the hub. After wrestling with all manner of techniques to remove it, including drilling, I decided instead just to spot weld the backing plate to the broken stud. It's a bit hacky, but easy to undo in the future if I need to. Slight pull to left hopefully it'll be sorted with all the other changes, if not, book in for alignment again Passenger window temperamental and not aligned properly I'm planning to take this apart to replace the rollers. I've read the bottom may need welding (it is very rattly) but I'm feeling confident having just learned how to weld! Lack of cup holding solution my ideal here is to 3D print a cupholder. I have been spending the last few months getting up to speed on 3D printing, and can print confidently with PLA, and am having some success with small ABS prints too. There is a design on Thingiverse for a Corrado cupholder which I've downloaded, but it's going to take 21 hours to print, so the main issue is finding a block of time to do it (the printer is noisy and there's no space in the house to leave it in the background without annoying someone). I suspect it will take a few attempts, and I also think the design may need refining too, but I'm looking forward to the challenge! Climatronic just too warm I've been studying technical gudies to see how to adjust the mixer flap settings with Vagcom, but no luck yet. It's really hard to find good info about it. The panel I have is from a MK1 Skoda Octavia. Passenger door doesn't close properly unless you know how I'm hoping to lube the handle a bit, but the main issue is that the door isn't aligned properly. I've tried to do this several times in the past, including jacking up the door to bend the hinges up a little, but no luck Rust on rear arch needs cleaning up Waiting for a sunny day with a lot of spare time! Sunroof panel looks crap and needs painting Looks better now it's aligned, but still needs painting at some point Sunroof not quite aligned I started getting issues with the sunroof struggling to close, and scratches on the left rear of the panel and feared the worse. However, the good news is that the mech seems to be aligned properly, no signs of breakages, and no play in the rear slider. The panel itself was far too high at the rear, so maybe it was catching the roof when closing, adding to the resistance? I spent 10 minutes getting the panel aligned properly and it looks good now (tiny bit lower than the roof at the front, tiny bit higher at the rear). It also opens and closes a lot better, and is a good few mm from the roof when sliding Passenger door paint is a mess no plans to tackle this yet, big job for the summer! Rear panel paint isn't much better this too! 1x Wiper nut cover is exposed, one is faded Wipers not quite aligned properly No bluetooth still an issue, it's currently got a Blaupunk Woodstock DAB54 radio which really suits the dash, matches the illumination on the climatronic and gives me DAB, SD cards (though only up to 1GB) and an Aux input. There is a bluetooth add on module for it but they are uber rare now. I've also got a more modern kenwood DAB/Bluetooth/USB unit but it looks a lot more like a typical 90's after-market radio. I really want to keep the Blaupunkt in as it's pretty, sounds great and is generally awesome, despite being over 15 years old, but the Kenwood is more practical... Steering just feels a bit woolly hopefully the refresh will sort this out a little. Rear wishbone bushes, ball joints and track rod ends all seem solid. A bit juddery when you boot it this refers to a slight looseness at the front end when you put your foot down, rather than hesitation from the engine. I have a new gearbox mount and rear engine mount to fit while the car is off the ground. Engine bay is a mess i'm fixing trim/replacing missing clips as I go. Hopefully I'll have chance to give the car a proper clean too! Full closure doesn't work I could do with a new alarm really No aircon this is so far down the list at the moment!

Did my slave cylinder a couple of months back. I didn't have much success with pressure bleeding or pumping the pedal, but I left it to gravity bleed and it was spot on

So after everything coming apart so easily, this has turned into a bit of a mare. First, the inner CV joint fell apart as I took it out of the diff. I've put it back together again, as it doesn't seem broken, but it's really stiff (so the joint doesn't actually move like it should do), and after spending another hour last night trying to fit it back on the car, I came to my senses and just ordered a new one. Secondly, the fasteners on the CV boot are the pinch type - I don't have the right pliers and was going to order some, but the smaller fastener seems way too big for the driveshaft on its smallest setting. I was going to order some repacement CV fasteners, but was wondering whether some stainless cable ties may be a better bet (£10 for 100 versus £5 for a single set of CV boot ties plus £10 for the pliers - plus I can use the stainless ties for loads of other things)

Sorted it, I just needed to grab it and give it a good shove.

I'm sure there's an easy answer, but I started the job far too late, and just ended up swearing at it for nearly an hour. I've got the driveshaft off the car, got the new boot onto the driveshaft and the CV joint back on. but I just cannot seem to get the Outer CV boot back over the joint. I tried sticking a screwdriver between the drvieshft and the narrow side of the boot to relieve the pressure inside as you push it on, but no luck. It's just too slippy and it's made a hell of a mess! Any ideas? It's probaby one of those things I'll sort in 30 seconds once I've slept on it.

I noticed the same the last time I refurbed the sunroof (the broken parts, not the "forward ladies") - most roofs I've dismantled seem to have a broken no 5. Part 29 has 4 small hooks on it - usually at least one of these is broken, as they are extremely brittle. Once one of them breaks, the slider misaligns under load and pushes everything out

Nice to see someone's made an installation kit - there is a write up somewhere of how to do this DIY, maybe a nice little project for anyone with a lot of time on their hands!

Hi there, Does anyone know of any good suppliers for the VW wire end connectors that go into the terminal plugs? Not the plastic terminal connectors themselves, but the metal pins (and round rubber seals) that fit into the terminal connectors? Would be nice to get a variety pack of different sizes

And a special milestone today too...

So, not the best pic, but took this on a day out at Harewood House in the Autumn. It needed a good clean at the time (as did the wheels!)

Not too sure to be honest - when I did it (a long time ago now), one side fell off as it was so worn, and the other invoived some swearing. A gear puller may do it?

I can't seem to send PMs, but PayPal is [email protected], and I'll get it in the post on Monday. I completely understand the need to get it perfect, don't worry!

Hi mate, I saw you post this last week and I was hoping someone else would reply! The linkage you sent me last year is still in my spare parts stock in the garage. I've been keeping hold of it as I've had one of these go on me before (worn bush), and now that it's obsolete I know I'd be absolutely screwed if the one on the car went. But it seems a waste keeping a brand new part on standby when someone needs it, particularly since mine was replaced a few years back. So.. Would you be up for a swap? I can sell you back the one you sold for the same price (£16 posted), if you can send me the used one you have? That way I've got a spare if the one on the car breaks, and you put the new part to good use?

So Yellow and Black temp senders are now changed. I changed the black one for a brown one as I want to run aircon at some point. The gauge is now working again, and the fans appear to be coming on and off when they should. I made a nice list called 'things that bug me about my Corrado, the plan is to work through and fix these when I get chance! Rattly exhaust/back of car Hot start woes Starter not engaging/disengaging correctly Getting the kids in and out is a ballache Temp gauge not working Oil temp works when it wants NSF knock Scatty idle, sometimes Squeaky front brakes - right Slight pull to left Passenger window temperamental and not aligned properly Lack of cup holding solution Climatronic just too warm Passenger door doesn't close properly unless you know how Rust on rear arch needs cleaning up Sunroof panel looks crap and needs painting Sunroof not quite aligned Passenger door paint is a mess Rear panel paint isn't much better 1x Wiper nut cover is exposed, one is faded Wipers not quite aligned properly No bluetooth Steering just feels a bit woolly A bit juddery when you boot it Engine bay is a mess Full closure doesn't work No aircon

Ha, I have happy memories of doing that mod too!

Thanks, I usually try to go with Lemforder first if VW aren't avaialble/are prohibitively expensive, Febi sometimes too but they can be hit and miss. I know Meyle haven't got a lot of love on here, but when I had my Fabia VRS they supplied some really high quality parts, on a par with Lemforder, particularly their HD range. Unfortunately, not even the 'OE qaulity' aftermarket parts seem to be available. I've got a Vibratech front mount - it increased vibration a tiny bit, but it made the whole front end seem a lot more connected (though that was compared to a worn original mount). For the high price versus seemingly little benefit for the rear mount, it's proabably not worth it. I'll go for the JP Group one. I agree on Topran, in my Mk2 Golf days (going back 10 years now) the quality was awful and lots of parts just didn't fit or failed as soon as they were put under working strain. That said, I fitted a Topran crack pipe and ignition swith about 8 years ago, and they're still going strong! I would always only use as a last resort now.

Part number 1H0199262K This is showing as obsolete at VW and is not listed at VW Classic parts. The only after market ones I can find are Topran (sigh), JP Group or Mapco. Does anyone know of another source? Or which of the brands listed might be the best quality?

Just on the question regarding which way to turn the key in the door to lock/unlock - afaik it behaves like most other door locks on cars/in houses - turn the side of the key closest to the lock mechanism up to unlock, and down to lock

Have you ruled out the Crank sensor? I'm not sure if a faulty reading stops the spark, but it definitely stops the fuel

I'm trying to sort out my top mounts once and for all. Currently running non-VR spring plates and non-VR top mounts with H&R springs, as the spring plates originally on the car were the late VR ones and didn't fit. I beleive that the part number above will let me run the H&R springs with the VR top mounts? Anyone got a pair lying around?

Hi there, I seem to have uneven pad wear on the 288mm front brakes. The pad is wearing faster on the inner disc near the hub than the outer disc. Any ideas what might be causing it? I think the calipers are the ATE ones off a late mk3 golf gti. Discs and pads are pagid.

By the way, the main reason I removed it again was because the light isn't shielded/directed - it meant at night the rear brake light would light up the whole of the rear of the interior of the car in red light

It looks similar to the one I had fitted. It was fitted to the plastic trim at the rear of the headlining on the car, not the tailgate. So wiring was simple - under the trim, then behind the c pillar trim and boot side carpet to the light cluster. If it were on the tailgate, you'd probably just route the wiring to join the rest of the tailgate loom where it enters the car, then as above, behind the c pillar trim.

I changed the salve cylinder last weekend. It was a fairly easy job - access was the biggest difficulty, but didn't really cause a problem with a mixture of long and short extensions. When I took the slave cylinder off, it was missing the pushrod - I found it still attached to the clutch housing, surrounded by what was left of the seal, so that might explain the problem! New cylinder is now fitted. I gravtiy bled it again - it took a long time but it was worth it as the clutch travel is spot on now. Next problem to show itself is a clunk on the NSF, but as far as problems go, that should be a fairly easy one to sort (famous last words...)

My windscreen outer trim has come loose along one side. What's the best thing to use to stick it down again?