tony_ack

Meant running the top mounts with the H&Rs - the H&Rs I have need the early spring plate

Sorry if I misread, but do you mean it's possible to run the Konis with the late top mounts? Took me ages to realise they didn't match and I had early spring plates with late top mounts for a while which didn't sit right. Currently on the early top mounts

Bump, anyone got anything?

Jim, it should be possible to DIY and get a certificate. I have an ancient Laserline in mine, and the insurance company told me it needed testing by a professional fitter to ensure it still worked okay - it cost me about £30 iirc, and I got a certificate to say it complied with Category 1. Gerry - I think you're right in it needing 2 circuits, it needs to isolate the fuel supply and ignition.

Ashtray backing I think? so the little cubby hole that the ashtray slides into that screws into the centre console. Think it has a light built in iirc.

Has anyone got one at a reasonable price? It's the insert in the dash which the ashtray slides into. Mine has a broken tab, so both tabs that slot into the dash need to be intact. Thanks

Done today, following a successful MOT! Thanks for the advice.

Okay, I've just done something similar on a vr, so may not quite be the same... First, I don't think the driveshaft will be too long, especially if it wasn't before. For q3, the inner cv joint should be held on by a clip. If you haven't disturbed the inner joint (other than to remove it from the diff) then I don't think anything will have changed. So check if the outer cv joint is fully home. Jack up that side and see whether there is any play in the wheel - there should be ZERO play. If there is play, then the cv joint needs pushing/whacking into the hub more.

I'm hopefully going to be ready to get the Corrado taxed soon, but things have changed since the last time I bought tax for any of our cars. So what's the deal with the monthly direct debit? Has anyone done it for their Corrado? The DVLA website has monthly rates for post-2001 cars, but not pre-2001 cars? Also, can you set it up to pay monthly mid-month (i.e. pay from 1st June, if I buy to start today)?

I'd say not much change from £2.5k if you need to buy the parts and want stealth to fit and map

Also consider the schrick 268 cams if you're going with the manifold, 263s are well suited to a standard manifold, but I've found the 268s suit the schrick well and really help to smooth out the changeover. You'd be looking realistically at 210 to 220bhp with the cams and schrick manifold, depending on engine condition, but it's not about peak power, it's more about increasing the power band so it pulls better from low-mid revs, right through to the red line. Stealth do a custom map on their rolling Road, and give you the printout of torque and bhp at the end.

The good news is all 4 bolts came out okay. Was a bit worried about the driver side front as it started to round but in the end I just went for it and it cracked free. Cracked all the bolts with the big breaker, then pulled them out with the impact gun to lower the stress of them. It looks like all the bolts had been reused - at least they'd been coated with copper grease before they were reused. I only had a couple of hours on it today but got stuck on the driver side ball joint - I undid both ball joints at the three camber bolts and left them in the hubs. The passenger wishbone had enough clearance after a bit of a wiggle and came out. But I can't get the driver one out, I'm about 1/2 cm short of room. I tried removing the ball joint top nut but no use without the special tool, and I don't fancy trying to separate the Cv joint from the hub. Any ideas for how to get the extra clearance I need?

Thanks for the advice, I get the feeling that unless I want to spend good money on replacement wishbones (and then extra on R32 bushes, which I'd still need to press in anyway), then I'm effectively replacing the quality wishbones on the car with ones that may not be as good. I've bought a few Torpran plastic parts in the past and they have been somewhat variable quality. So I think I'm going to go down the route of using the originals - I'm not exactly flush with a lot of spare time, but as with most jobs on the Corrado, if you expect to be able to just do a quick job on it, you'll always be disappointed. GSF do Lemforder R32 bushes, so they seem like a good bet. Still worried about getting the bolts out in one piece - any thoughts on whether it's more likely to shear them by using the impact gun or 3ft breaker bar?

The Corrado failed her MOT last week on both rear wishbone bushes. The garage gave me a quote of £280 to replace them, but they wanted to fit new wishbones and ball joints at the same time. I don't have that sort of money at the moment after already throwing ££££ at the car to get the brakes to a fit state for the MOT, replacing the downpipe and inner cv joint. Famous last words but... I think I can do it myself for cheaper. The wishbones are crusty in appearance but rock solid. The ball joints have been replaced about 2-3 years ago with genuine parts, and are still stiff to move (i.e. no free play) So I reckon just change the bushes. I've been looking for a guide, but haven't found anything, just a few bits of advice in various threads. What I've found is... 1. Plenty of penetrating oil on the bolts beforehand (I've just jacked it up and there's a gap to spray between the arms and the subframe where the bolt goes through, so I soaked it) 2. Bolts are prone to breaking... I've got an impact gun - is it worth trying to whip the bolts out with that to lower the stress on the bolts? They'll be less likely to shear won't they? 3. Jack up the engine to get the r/hand arm out (and to get the gun on the bolt on that side) 4. Bushes choice - a lot recommend R32 bushes. GSF sell TRW ones for a tenner each, these are OE equivalent, aren't they? Or Lemforder? How much are VW ones? 5. How have people managed to get the bushes out/pressed in at home? Is a vice sufficient, with a socket? What size socket roughly? 6. What options are there for clenaing up the wishbones? How much would I be looking at to get them powder coated? Would just cleaning up the rust and hammerite work? 7. Anything else that can go wrong? Cheers

Vwspares.co.uk

NLA according to the local dealer, not sure if I believed them... Got some on order from vw classic parts via vw heritage

Cable I suspect, if it's still sliding then the cable may still be intact. I'd try dismantling the one you have, cleaning, regreasing and then resetting the cables. If it's having problems sliding, one of the cables has probably skipped a tooth or two

If you've still got the boot popper and it's intact, it may be worth giving it a grease. I had my tailgate in pieces several times over a 2 year period when trying to track down a rogue squeak, and it turned out to be the popper

As in the brake bias compensator? Vwspares apparently sell the whole thing: http://www.vwspares.co.uk/corrado_brakes.php

I've got the 268s with the Schrick. Before I had them and remapped, there was a definite blip when the flap switched over - the cams and the map smoothed it out nicely, and it seems to pull stronger in the mid to top end. With the Schrick helping bring the torque band down a bit, it's a good combo

I did mine on axle stands in the middle of winter... It was not a pleasant experience. The manifold nuts came off really easily but the ones to the cat were seized solid, as was the clamp between the cat and middle silencer. I undid it between the rear section and mid section but there wasn't enough clearance to get it out, so I had to cut the middle clamp off under the car and then cut off the bolts between the downpipe and cat when it was on the bench. To make it worse I couldn't remove the lambda either so had to snip and resolder the wires.

I'll take these, I'm away at the moment but will be back in a few days

Plastic clip was available at the dealer not so long ago? I also remember getting the rod from there a couple of years ago

J-reg pre facelift Corrado parked in Farsley yesterday afternoon, think it's pearl grey? Seen it around a couple of times (its the only Corrado I've seen all winter!)

I need a new handle as mine's completely bust. Don't mind if the usual part of the mechanism is broken as I've got the repair kit I can transfer over from the old handle, as long as the rest of the handle is okay. It's for a late model if it makes a difference. Thanks!