muppetlab

Anyone else care to offer any suggestions? Please help as i am beinging to look to the dark side (bmw) :cuckoo: if the old girl is not an easy fix.

Thanks, have checked fuel and its pressurising the fuel line i think so need to check for a spark and maybe test the crank sensor somehow. Fingers crossed as the wiring looks a nightmare behind the fuse box!! Might get a couple of realys as spares as they seem fairly cheap and could rule them out quickly. Cheers Jez

After a good couple of months without major problems the ole gal has died completely. Coasting up to roundabout, big backfire and engine just stopped. After a causing traffic chaos and finally pushing the heavy beast of a car safely out of the traffic it Wont restart, just cranks over. Have scaned for codes and all i get is the crank sensor but that might be because its not actually running. Can anyone tell me if: 1/ the red/yellow wire at the fuel pump connector should have voltage when just ignition switched on? Mine does not, if this is not correct which relay would be the fuel pump? 2/ scanning for codes will show a faulty relay 3/ anything i should check apart from if its getting fuel or a spark 4/If a dying crank sensor would cause intermitent stuttering under part throttle as if it is missing on a few cylinders? thanks folks, any help appreciated. Dont want to be stuck in the work van for too long if i cant sort this out :D

Maybe Quicky1980 think hes from round that way?? yup was me, I was a little stressed out as I need to get to TPS and back to work in time for a meeting. will have to catch up with you some time soon muppetlab Would love a look under your bonnet now the engine conversion is done. Promise not to drool too much :grin:

Maybe Quicky1980 think hes from round that way??

Anyone know the bolt size?? Want to get this ordered tomorrow if its a vdub only part.

Just want them to stay done up. Fed up with them falling out at random intervals. might try superglue!!

Damn vr has thrown its engine mount bolts out again. Seems to happen every few months since i fited vf mounts and polymounts allround. The top engine mount bracket passanger side is an m10 i think and have fitted one i had lying around. But the lower engine mount bracket bolt on the drivers side looks bigger. Does anyone know if its a specific thread/size. i tried a bolt i had which i had to cut down to miss the oil cooler but it does not seem to pull tight, hope its not buggered. Also whats the best thing to stop the damn bolts getting loose, spring washers? thread lock? both? of a blob of weld on the bolt which it will be soon if these bloody bolts dont stay put. I am litterally getting a scaffolding tube on the socket to get leverage so i know they are damn well tight when done up. Help anyone, i know you are a knowledgable lot. :D

I recently did a complete brake overhaul and had to bleed about 4 litres throught the entire system using an easibleed contraption on a spare wheel. Took ages and around 25psi :shock: but just as i was about to give up it came good. dont forget the bleed nipples on the master cylinder and abs pump if fitted. Clutch is seperate but wise to give it a quick change of fluid whilst you have the gear out. good luck

MYSTIC BLUE? RADO AT SOUTH GATES KINGS LYNN TODAY AROUND 5.30PM. I DID WAVE :wave: BUT YOU LOOKED SURPRISED. :D I WAS IN THE RATTY AQUA BLUE VR.

Well got them on now and have no problems. Has cured my arch rubbing so cant be bad. Toyos not as grippy as the yokos but hopefully will wear better. cheers

when i buy a classic car like the corrado is now, i only really look for one thing...RUST. mechanicals can be fixed fairly cheaply (obviuosly it helps if the engine and gearbox actually work) but rot is a pain to sort out. Things like sills, arches, fuel filler, rear quarter etc, make the difference to me as welding is time consuming and if you dont weld expensive. If you are a petrol head then things like brakes and bushes will probably be upgraded as you go along anyway so just find the most solid that you can is my suggestion.

Just a follow up. Had the smaller 205's fitted on the front and had an alignment done and no rubbing on arches and i have a bit of "poke" so i am told! one thing i have noticed is the car was spot on, tracked perfect when i collected it but now it has a slight pull to the left. I thought it was tracking until i tried coasting out of gear and it runs perfectly straight. I suspect the diff or gearbox might be causing an imbalance? anyone have any ideas? cheers

thanks will keep an eye out for passat ones then. cheers jez

Need to replace the mech on my passenger door. Looking for ones on the web but cant seem to find one but last one i bought from vw was about 70 odd quid. Anyone know if mk2 golf mechs fit. have seen some pics and they look similar. cheers

yep as far as i know abs is okay. Replaced 3 sensors and the light for the mot a couple of months ago and it lights and goes out okay. abs works as can feel it pulsing when trying out the brakes :wink: Thin is at the time i did loads like the braided lines, replaced a couple or manky copper pipes, mk4 calipers, new rear pads/discs/bearings and new tyres all round so its hard to tell which one or bit it is causing the problems. Am leaning towards the handrake having cooked one set of pads or the tyres. oh well all fun and games and at least its warmer and dryer than when i was crawling about in minus temps in jan and feb! all part of rado ownership i guess. just would like it all to work nicely for a week at least.

Red valver tescos car park kings lynn this evening. Looked nice and tidy and well slammed on what looked like bbs type spokes. Would have waved but there was no one it it and i am not a nutter who waves at empty cars!

Thanks for that link, they look just the job and much easier than fiddling around with rolls of copper pipe. Think my imbalance may have been caused by a sticking handbrake cable. just after i fitted the new pads the driverside handbrake stuck on which pretty much cooked the pads. have mixed up the pads today and seems better so far....fingers crossed.

After months of slog and nearly getting the damn car sorted the rear brakes are f :censored: ing me right off. Just after i did a mk4 conversion with red stuff pads and new discs it started pulling to the n/s under braking. Definitely from the rear as the steering wheel does not pull and i can feel the car pivoting around the n/s rear wheel. Thought i was the 2nd hand calipers so sourced another for the driver side rear and fitted it tonight and no change. The only wierd thing is when i pressure bleed it caliper not much comes out. its enough to bleed it but its a bit slow. Both the calipers bleed rate on the driverside are the same slow bleeding. I remember replacing a couple of copper lines from the bias valve, so maybe its this or could the bias valve be faulty on one side? There seems to be a fair bit of fluid come out if i remove the caliper bleed nipple completely so i am stumped. I am going to replace the bias valve and all the rear solid lines this time. I was going to use a flexible braided hose. anyone know where i can get some hose and fittings to make my own up to what ever length? Final thought - could the rear axle bush on the nearside be duff and cause the the axle to move under braking, thanks for any help its doing my nut in this car. Got a european trip to plan and fancied a stab at the ring this summer but not if the car wont handle properly. phew.....

hoses on todo list already pending the thermostat replacement and gruven crack pipe. trying to get a godspeed radiator too hopefully soon. cheers

Lovely. should be nice and toasty then. Black trim with black leather and a sunroof that half opens and a roasting hot vr next to my feet. Not too worried about dust as mine is a long way from a minter and i think rapidly turning into more of a rat although it does look alright well when its cleaned.

Excellent shall go with the skinny fronts then. Must align the front properly first though. Will have a go and see if i can improve it this week and then get it in a garage for fine tuning. All the height and camber adjustments have messed it right up. Things we do to get shiny wheels to fit when its clear that they really would rather not. Think the rack needsto be centred too.

After some nightmarish months trying to get the tyres to fit under the arches on my vr it seems that the slight pull to the left which i kept meaning to do has completely scrubbed off the nearside tyre and left the drivers side half worn :bad-words: I knew i should have looked at it sooner. Think its just the tracking thats out as one side does look like it is angled different to other. Also do people run more camber on the nearside to account for the camber of the road? To get over the arch tyre relationship i am looking to go narrower on the front. Currently on 215 40 17 all round but looking to drop to maybe a 195 40 17 on the front. Can anyone tell me if this will cause a problem with the abs system running wheels that are different diameters or are the sensors reading cross each axle independantly and also will a 195 40 17 be better or worse than a 195 45 17? thanks jez

Thanks, just got to plan the route and we're away then. oh and the ferry, villa and breakdown cover....

Yep i guessed breakdown cover was a top prority. Will definitely do it as long as the car holds together prior to us leaving. The temptation to race will be a hard on to resist as the roads in france are brilliant. Be interesting to see what mpg i can get out of the vr on such a long trip. Would have thought 35 mpg should be possible. Thanks for all the encouragement. I knew i was going to do it really just needed reminding how brilliant it will be. Will really cement my relationship if it makes it there and back in one piece. Dont think i could ever sell it after a trip like that if it all goes okay. Maybe a test run to the ring is in order and to get value out of breakdown cover or is that only a per trip arrangement or an annual thing?