Andy T

Replacing the headgasket at the mo, the oil feed hole/check valve in the face of the block (back left corner) seems to have a white/grey o-ring fitted to seal it to the head, does anyone replace this o-ring when they do a gasket change? It looks in okay condition, I don't know if they come included with the new gasket or not? I've ordered a Elring standard headgasket. Thanks.

Over the weekend I started headgasket replacement on the VR, outdoors on the drive. All came apart pretty easily, appears to have the original gasket. Cleaned the head up and appears to be very flat so hopefully no skimming required. Hope the good weather continues!

Has anyone bought any of the cheaper eBay silicone coolant hose kits, are they any good? I have samcos but after 5 years the top hose split, and the head to matrix hose has some pinhole leaks now. I just need these two hoses but don't really want to shell out 250 for samcos again. on eBay 'winner racing' (chinese) sell vr6 kits for 100 quid delivered. From the photos I can see that the long small dia part of the top hose is seperate, presuming they are joined with a connector? They are listed as mk3 golf AAA/ABV engine. Any thoughts?

After seven years of VR6 ownership I've decided to semi-retire my C and buy a VW up as a daily driver, anyone on here have one? When I did the sums, a new up almost pays for itself, when you factor in mpg, tax, insurance and minimal maintenance, my C is running perfect at the mo but if I keep doing 15k in it a year I'm sure to have some big bills in the future. So the plan is to insure the C on a 1.5k miles policy and tax it for six months in the summer. Need to get a good car cover for it soon! I thought the VW up would be like driving a Daewoo Matiz or something, but its actually really nice to drive, solid and good on the motorway with its 75bhp engine, sounds quite good too!

I have 16" BBS RC'S which have the original BBS metal valves. I'm having some problems with tyre pressures at the moment, two wheels are going flat but at random rates. Does anyone know, can you replace the cores on these valves? If not, any tips on valve replacement? all I've found so far is justmatz.co.uk, they say I have to measure the hole in the rim to see if it matches the bbs ones they sell. Thanks,

Lol, must of been another Jay. Yes I work at Renold! ---------- Post added at 3:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 3:52 PM ---------- Lol, must of been another Jay. Yes I work at Renold!

:) Are you the guy who used to have a restored mk1 caddy, that did some work at Mirrlees/MAN years back? I might be way off but I used to work there and had a mk2 Oak Green 8v at the time

Saw a Aubergine/Blackberry? M Reg Corrado on Hollinwood Avenue, New Moston, you flashed me this morning I and only caught a glance as I drove the other way and managed a wave. Paintwork looked immaculate mate!

VR6 Water pump (Exchange part) £61 inc. vat VR6 Expansion tank cap £9.20 inc. vat

That'd be me, I work at Renold

Cool, thanks mate

I have a largish dent on the passenger side rear wing/panel, its about central to the trim panel inside and right on the swage line, I know these are double skinned but does anyone know if there is access window to the outer skin from inside the car? Someone swiped the car when turning into a space next to me (prob a white panel van or similar) luckily the paint damage polished out fine, so just a dent repair needed. I don't want to remove the trim panel and risk breaking the clips until I know if its a goer or not! Cheers

Wanted - Bilstein 'Sprintline' front shock, 1 or a pair(the yellow ones that were a kit with Eibach lowering springs) For Corrado VR6. preferably new, or low milage excellent condition. Cheers.

You can't get made up lines from anywhere. Don't get copper lines installed because the fittings always seize up resulting in damage to the pipework, usually resulting in having to have the section replaced again when replacing a caliper or bias valve etc. Cupro-Nickel (Kunfier) is the best choice (Dark grey in appearance) I had my rear lines replaced in Cupro-Nickel, looks very neat & OE, will probably outlast the original steel lines and future valve/caliper changes won't be a problem. The Flexy's can be bought from GSF, ECP and probably the dealer aswell, or go for Goodridge braided?

Could also be the clutch master cylinder (pedal end) starting to leak. Bleeding the clutch will help and will probably last for ages until the pedal starts to drop again.

Twas me probably, I spoke to you this morning mate when I was topping up my slightly leaky coolant system!

The oil light/buzzer is more likely to be broken wiring or faulty sensors, they are mounted ontop of the oil filter housing at the front of the engine, I recently had the same problem and found the wiring broken at the sensor connectors. Shine a torch down from the slam panel and you will see the sensors/wiring. Is the oil on the side of the head, or coming from the airbox tube?

LOL that was me! I'm always on that stretch of motorway at around 8.15 driving to work, I've occasionally seen a dark blue C there, probably was yours, will keep my eyes peeled for you mate.

All fixed now :) All three wires had broken due to corrosion, the left hand sender was loose, and the right hand one had no sealing washer! Its quite an easy job with the drivers side headlight removed. The wiring colours are - (looking from front of car) Yellow wire - Left hand sender(Black) - Buzzer Blue wire - Right hand sender (Blue) - Oil Light Green wire - Rear (small) sender - MFA Oil temperature display

Had a look yesterday and it looks like i've got a broken wire to the left sender, and a small leak on the right sender. It looks tight down there for getting access to fitting the senders & sorting the wiring, any tips for access? I was thinking I might have to remove the slam panel to make room for my arms! Cheers.

Just checked the instruction manual, it says that the oil buzzer will only operate above 2000rpm, that would explain why it stopped buzzing when I pulled over. I take it that that the oil light should come on at any rpm if there's a problem? I'm baffled by the lack of oil light, it was definately working last week.

Left work tonight and after five mins driving, the oil buzzer came on for a few secs, then stayed on. Pulled over and oil buzzer stopped, but started buzzing again as soon as I pulled away. Got towed home to be on safe side, now i've noticed that the Oil light does not come on when the ignition is turned on at all. Does this sound more like a instrument cluster problem than an actual oil/sensor problem? Oil level is fine. Have tried the search but it will only search for one 'word' now so struggling to find a similar scenario! cheers for any advice.

Are these a straight fit in a VR6? Does anybody know the part number, or what model/year of R32 I should be asking for at VW? I have a standard VR6 stat to hand, but have read that these can cause problems with water flow/temperatures. Cheers for any help

I got a passenger side one through a bodyshop, they said it was £60-ish from VAG?

Was it the front mount, do you still have it on your car? I've just had a turn2 front VR6 mount fail on me, shortly after having my bonnet resprayed, totally gutted. I now have a dent in the bonnet larger than the one that got repaired. :( I don't know how old it was, fitted by the previous owner 4+ years ago. It looks like its made of blue Poly. I advise everyone to check out their front engine mounts, especially if having a bonnet resprayed! I was only pulling away steadily when I heard the thud too. I will post some pics of the mount when I take it off this weekend.