Andy T

Err... I don't think they would of been too impressed if i'd got my camera out and started snapping.. I was quickly ushered out of the workshop anyway(maybe its a top secret project ;) ) They said something about the owner going over to germany to "get the guy who built them to sign the slam panel" ?!

No not on agreed value, wish I had done as I'd not have much to worry about then! I didn't know you could deal direct with the other persons insurer, nice to know i'vce got another option there if I need it.

Got the first quote back, new VAG wing(late ones still available, £300) repairs/paint/new tyre/wheel alignment comes to £804 in total. Does anyone think it's a dead-cert write off or could I have a chance through insurance? Car is almost mint, 105k on clock.

I called in at ProSpray (Rixton nr warrington) today to get a quote for some body repairs, they had a corrado there which had a full repaint - it looked incredible, widened rear arches, deleted side repeaters, and a stunning interior. Does it belong to anyone on here? I had a mk2 GTI resprayed there about 6/7 years ago, nice to see they are still turning out top quality work 8)

I was thinking the same, when he sees the quotes for bodywork+wheel alignment + tyre he might get a shock! why would I need to contact the third party insurer? won't my insurer be doing that on my behalf? I should of called the police I guess, although nothing made me suspect she was under the influence. I reckon she had her wing mirrors in her tall SUV set too high, she probably couldn't even see my dark green, low slung coupe

Cheers for all the advice, I took lots of photo's of the accident scene before I moved the car, and have done a sketch. I didn't realise that I would only loose one years NCD, always assumed I'd loose the lot, does one year just apply to situations where the blame is 50/50? I contacted my insurer, who have arranged for their approved repair centre to asess the damage. I'm assuming this will be a bodyshop, are they going to be able to properly check if the suspension/chassis is out of alignment or will they basically just check that nothing is broken/bent? They insurer said that I can get my own quotes but the process will take longer because they will have to send out an engineer to inspect it etc. This morning, I get a knock at the door, its the husband of the woman who hit me. He says sorry for his wife's error and offers to pay for all of the repairs, he doesn't want to go through the insurance if i'm in agreement, because their full no-claims aren't protected. After a bit of a discussion, I tell him that I will consider it, and get written quotes for the bodywork/alignment checks/new tyre. Any thoughts on this? I would prefer this route, I get to repair the car to a high standard without insurance hassle/possible no claims loss, and not have the car branded as a write-off which would surely de-value it. If I give them the quotes and they decline to give me the cash, I can just continue with the insurance route, what does everyone think? Cheers.

My C got damaged this morning by a driver who decided to swerve into my lane to turn left into a side road, hitting my o/side wing, which pushed the car into the kerb. The wing is crumpled, and the side of the bumper is heavily scuffed. On the n/side, the wheel and tyre took the impact, ripping the sidewall and damaging the rim a bit. :( She wouldn't admit fault, then didn't want to exchange details, and suggested that we fix our own cars! There were no witnesses (well, no one bothered to stop) eventually she gave me her details. I rang my insurer to report it, and they arranged for a local bodyshop to quote for the repairs, but when I asked questions about no claims discount/fault/blame/write off's etc. they seemed totally clueless. If no one admits fault, and they can't prove who was at fault, what happens about the repair costs etc.? I'm fully comp with 8 yrs NCD, but I don't think they're protected. If I have it inspected by their approved repairer and they decide that it's uneconomical to repair, does it automatically become an insurance write off, or can you tell them where to stick it then pay to get it fixed as normal? There's no way I'd want to part with this car even if they offered what I paid for it! I've just checked the mechanicals over and it all looks/works ok, and the rim runs true, hopefully just a new tyre and four wheel alignment to make it driveable again. I'm wondering if it would be better if we both paid for own repairs outside of the insurance companies- can this be formally agreed through the insurers at some point? I don't fancy losing my NCD and paying £350 excess on repairs! Any advice/experience is appreciated, thanks.

Wrong, my vr6 box mount has just started leaking gunky black stuff. Anybody know if a proper vr6 spec box mount can be bought from anywhere other than VW?

My rear heated screen/demister switch started playing up a while back, requiring a good shove to work. After buying a couple of dud ones off ebay, I resorted to fix the original one, which was fairly easy with only basic tools, here's how - Open the switch up by carefully prising the 4 tabs on the outside, then pull the two halves apart (careful, two small chrome bullets with springs attached will fall out! Ideally hold the switch with the buttons facing the floor to keep the pins in place.) Once apart, there is a small white plastic plunger that pushes the copper contacts together - the plunger wears away over the years, mine looked like the heat had melted it. Check the copper switch contacts, clean them with a screwdriver blade or smooth sandpaper. Now might be a good time to the check that both bulbs are working, with a continuity tester or battery. Unclip the plunger assembly from its pivot point. Now carefully remove the white plunger & spring from its housing using a small electrical screwdriver. There is a small lug on the side of the pluger that restricts its travel - carefully remove it with a stanley knife. Now find a small metal nut or ball bearing that will fit into the housing before the spring and plunger - You will have to experiment here to get the right spring tension when re-assembled (I used a 2mm thick nut) refit the spring & plunger, holding it in place until the assembly is clicked back into the pivot point. Carefully rock the assembly back and forth to test - the spring pressure should hold the switch contacts together firmly. To re-assemble - Drop the chrome pins into the two holes of the push switch housing (bullet ends first). Carefully refit the switch innards to the housing, click into place. Now go test! It's easy to do, self explanatory really, I've probably made it sound more complicated than it is!

I'd try doing it without removing the front end first, I'm sure others have done it without removing the coilpack.... You could remove the rad fan to give more room at the front.

A wise AA man told me yesterday that a battery must maintain at least 12.2 volts to be holding charge properly, any lower and it's knackered.

Hi The black stuff can come off with carburettot cleaner. The ISV should NOT be lubed. Yes I cleaned it with carb cleaner. I oiled it because it was recommended in several posts. Why should it not be lubed? I realise that it's probably way past its best now and will need cleaning often, otherwise it will jam again.

Fixed! :D Removed the ISV and all pipework - found the ISV shutter to be jammed open slightly, but not in the normal 'unplugged' position, the shutter had moved round to give a small opening on the other side. It didn't take much to free it up, maybe the shutter was moving slightly, causing the idle to go beserk. It also explains why unplugging it made no difference. Found the insides of the ISV to be bone dry and slighly black, whatever I lubed it with last time has all but gone. Lubed it this time with a dab of thin engine oil, hopefully it keep it moving freely :) She is running perfectly now, all idle & hesitation issues cured. The only thing I can't figure is why the idle was perfect when cold? :?

Has anyone else fitted a Bosch MAF 0280 217 512 (think this is a VW no. 462A?) to a late '95 VR6 lately? Anyone had any running problems or poor performance etc? I have just got an Bosch Exchange one from GSF (£61-odd inc. VAT) my original MAF was a 0280 217 504 (VW no. 462) but GSF were insistent that a 512 it isn't suitable for the 2.9 ABV and refused to sell it to me! so I had to go back the next day and ask for a '97 mk3 VR6 MAF! The housing is brand new, exactly the same as the original one on my car, and the sensor inside looks identical as far as I can tell. Could it be that the 512 number is related to it being an Exchange part? The best price I could get for a new '504' unit was £155+VAT from a Bosch agent (VAG wanted £190+VAT!)

Yeah the ISV was properly cleaned & lubed about six months ago. I Checked all intake & ISV pipework for air leaks when running, but will check the ISV pot properly tonight. Cheers

Thanks for that, I've done alot of searches but didn't know I could use '+' in the seach text. I've searched for hours now, also on vr6+TPS+idle etc, but come up with nothing about hunting/hesitation only when warm. I've also tried unplugging the TPS when running, the hunting stops and it idles at around 1000 rpm. So both MAF & TPS have an effect on the problem. The car will also idle with both unplugged, again at about 1000 rpm steady!

Checked again, the idle actually hunts between 1100 and 1500 rpm consistently. There is a hesitancy after pressing the throttle and a slight shunt a few seconds after releasing the throttle. Anybody had these symptoms before?

last night my Vr's idle started hunting after going for a quick blast. It hunts between 800 - 2000 rpm every couple of seconds consistently, but never stalls. Driving at lowish rpm seems a bit jerky on and off the throttle. When started from cold, the idle is perfect, then after a few mins it gets rougher, then hunts as above. Disconnecting the ISV made no difference at all. I've just unplugged the four pin MAF when running, it stopped the hunting, the idle dropped to about 500 rpm. Can a faulty MAF cause this type of hunting when warm? I've done a search but found little on warm idle problems that aren't ISV related. What else should I check? It's a late Coilpack VR6. Cheers.

I did this job recently, when I went to VW I had to order the thermostat seal seperately for some reason, the stat ordered on the part no. below came without a seal. The stat seal part no. is 901 368 02 (£2.26!)

Mine is still making the noise, changed to Silkolene Pro-S synthetic oil but it didn't make any difference. In summer the noise is less noticeable on warmer days. The noise has never got any worse, and it always disappears after five mins. Nice to know it's there on R32's too, I doubt i'll ever get round to inspecting the oil pump!

Cheers, thought it seemed too good to be true, especially at only £350 a set, might stick with the bbs and get them rerfurb'd.

As above, do they clear the brake calipers okay, without the need for spacers? Any other opinions on these wheels in 16", good or bad? Cheers

You are right saying that the corrado vr6 & golf vr6 are around ET 42/43, this is partly because of the plus axle (wider track). So transferring rims from e.g. a 16v or g60 corrado, you will find that they stick out more, firstly by the increased track of the plus axle, AND by the difference in ET offsets. Annoyingly on the vr6 this also means less brake caplier clearance for dished rims like Azev A's or BBS RS, usually need axle spacers.

Wouldn't chance it, what about German & Swedish, Euro carp parts, or maybe AVS VW spares online?

Cheers, that makes alot of sense. I guess that changing a CV joint will involve removing/moving the hub, then redoing the wheel alignment ££££ ? I remember mk2 polo's where you could just about remove the driveshafts without removing any suspension components at all!