tonytiger

Well, that's just disgraceful service from all the ompanies involved. I only ever expect bad service from everyone these days (apart from places I use regularly) regardless of reputation - what some people think is brilliant service could be what I think is crap. I think contacting Porsche hq and a few car mags is the best idea - I think Autocar and Auto Express also used to get involved in disputes and usually got results. May also be worth contacting trading standards (if you've not already tried). All you can really do is keep at them, and maybe threaten with legal action (possibly even pay for a solicitors letters). Have been to the motor show this week? Would have been a good opportunity to complain on their stand in front of lots of potential customers. If you're persistent enough I'm sure they'll sort things out eventually.

Updated pics of my burgundy VR ---> http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?p=111981#111981

Well, I've had the VR for over 6 months now and done over 13k miles in it, so thought it was time for some fresh pics. Nothing significantly different - clear side repeaters, new n/s headlamp (not cheap are they), new n/s fog lamp (they're not cheap either) and indicator, new front grill, new VW badges front and back and Lupo wipers. Oh and I actually washed and poslished the car before these photos. Would like some clear/red inpro or fk rear lights too as I'm sure that would make the car look much better but they'll have to wait until much later in the year when I might have some spare cash again.

:( Sorry to hear this but at least your (mostly) okay. From what you've said, I agree with everybody else - it will be written off (unless perhaps you've got a specialist insurance policy). It's sounds very low mileage for it's age, and assuming it's good/top condition I think you'll have to fight the insurance company to get a decent payout. Provide them with evidence from Autotrader, this forum, etc of the price of cars with similar miles and condition. A bit of hassle but will be worth it - they usually agree in the end if you argue long enough. Also, as other people have said, get yourself to your doctor (or even hospital) to get your neck looked at. Then get a good solicitor (not necessarily the one who your insurance company deal with). You should then get sent to a specialist for a neck examination, etc. Your solicitor should then claim substantial damages for personal injury from the other party (plus any incidental costs you've incurred) - should be worth at least a grand, maybe two. Assuming the VR is written-off, will you be looking for the same again or having a complete change?

I too expected my premiums to fall when I turned 25 (and subsequently 30) but in my experience that doesn't happen, instead it just stops them going up. Though it probably doesn't help that it's fully comp with no limit on the mileage (I think the cheapest quotes usually have mileage restricted to 8000 miles or less).

I don't work in the insurance industry but my understanding is that while you NCD is unaffected the original inurance quote may be. So you might keep you 60% discount (or whatever) but the premium before that is applied might well go up (possibly significantly). Another factor in this is whether your insurance company recovered all the costs from the third party - basically if they're left out of pocket, you'll probably be penalised (though probably just depends which company you're with). It's just a case of shopping around - some companies are bothered about no-faults, while others are. It's difficult having to renew your policy if you've had a recent claim which isn't fully settled (which I guess yours may not be) as most companies are unlikely accept a claim as no-fault until it's closed. And, I can confirm from experience (in this case relating to a household policy) that the insurance ombudsman is absolutely useless - has no power/authority over the insurance whatsoever. I'd also consider suing the 3rd parties even if you weren't injured as you may be able to claim compensation for incidental expenses, time off work, etc.

Thanks. Guess I don't need to worry about reconnecting that wire. If I need to change the breather pipe (haven't properly inspected it yet), which version is best - early or late type? Or would I have to replace it with the same?

One of the wires on the electrical connector to the breather hose has broken off on my VR (see first photo). I was going to attempt to fix this (or at worst find another connector plug with the wires still attached) so I tested the wiring for power first to make sure there were no other problems. Then I looked at the connector socket - it doesn't appear to have any contacts - just seems to be plastic (see 2nd photo). This has got me really confused :? - am I missing something obvious? The only reference I seem to be able to find for that connection is that it's to the 'heated tube'. What's it's purpose?? Having seen another photo on here somewhere of the breather hose, I see that mine is different (no bellows, etc) so I assume mine is the later type. Does anybody why the breather setup was changed and if there's any significant difference between them? Could it be that the heated tube (if that's what it is/was) was only needed on the early type setup? That would perhaps explain why mine seems to be a dummy connection. Any thoughts anybody?

Right, I've read this and other threads on which oil to use in a VR but I'm still confused. :? My car is going for a service this week, and having used 10W40 semi-synthetic since I got the car last October I was going to swtich to 15W40 semi-synth (if it exists) for the summer (if we actually get one). But I now see that some people just run 10W40 all year, some run 15W50 and others something else again. So, please could somebody sum-up the difference between the typical grades used (as simply as possible) and the benefit of using different grades in winter and summer (and was this something VW ever recommended). Cheers, Tony.

Can anybody recommend any bodyshops in the Darlington area? Would travel a little further afield if necessary but would prefer not to. At the moment I'm just looking at getting the front bumper resprayed (following an incident with a paperboy & bike :mad: ) but will probably want other bits doing soon too. Anyone know how much a bumper respray is likely to cost from a decent place? And how good a match should it be possible to get on burgundy pearl?

dr_mat, Henny, thanks for the advice. I went for the 2 drivers arms and a passenger blade and fitted them this morning (in the rain). So far, they do seem to work really well - I can actually see where I'm going when it's raining :D They also look much better on the car than I was expecting, and I much prefer them to standard 8) . Guess I'll have to do the rear one now too!

Sorry to drag this up again, but there still seems to be a difference of opinion over which setup is best - 2x drivers arms (and probably 1 passenger blade) or 1x drivers and 1x passenger arms. dr_mat, if I understand your post correctly with the setup you've used you can't lift the wipers as normal. Yet in a previous post chris CORRADO has used the same setup and doesn't have any problems. Could anybody whose done this mod on a VR6 confirm which setup they've used and whether you can lift the arms as normal when the bonnet's closed. I've read through this post a number of times now and I'm still confused. :? Cheers.

Reading through various posts it's interesting to see that the discount given (if any) seems to vary so much among dealers. I think it could be useful (and perhaps a little annoying) to see what discount everybody gets, under which scheme and at which dealer. If enough people get more discount than me then perhaps I can shame the dealer to increase my discount. :wink: I get 10% from Benfield VW, Newcastle upon Tyne through their Club-GTI scheme (I'm not a member but it was all they would offer when I showed my CCGB card).

BlueVR6, I've not had any further problems with the car, apart from 'normal' stalling, and nothing showed up on VAG-COM (other than ABS problems) so I've got no idea what the problem was. Hopefully it won't happen again.

bigben, The CCGB website have info on all the models. Here's a link for yours: http://www.corradoclub.co.uk/Models/1816v.html

Thanks for the suggestions Kev. I'm going to have a look at it now. Unfortunately my VAG-COM kit is at home - 40 miles away :(

Had a problem with my VR on my way to work - set off from rest across a roundabout, foot to the floor but car didn't accelerate very hard. Carried on to work without any other noticeable problem. First chance I got to floor it again in 1st was in work's car park - set off well but at about 4000rpm (not sure exactly) car just seemed to shut off and nose-dived. Can't remember whether car stalled or whether I just switched it off at that point, but on restarting it would idle - just cut-out. Restart and try to rev immediately but wouldn't - struggled to idle briefly and then died again. Started to push the car but was struggling (wish power steering was active without engine running) so tried to start it again. Started okay and would rev okay. Drove it into parking space and revved it hard - no problems. Car had been running fine until this happened and nothing's changed other than filling it up with Optimax this morning (from usual garage). I'll be trying it again at lunch time but wondered if anyone had any suggestions as to likely causes or had experienced the same thing. Thanks, Tony. P.S. I know there may be other postings on this subject, but as I'm at work I can't spend much time on the internet.

Unfortunately, I'm 30 years old (but I've had nearly a year to come to terms with that now - so can say that without crying). VWs I've owned: 1985 Scirocco GT 'S' in white from 1996 to 2001 (did over 100,000 miles in that and actually kept this until very recently for spares) 1990 Scirocco GT2 in red from 2001 to 2003 1993 Corrado VR6 in burgundy pearl - had this for almost 4 months now, what a fantastic car! Before those, I had 3 metros (don't laugh, more fun than you might think): 1981 Austin Metro 1.0 (black) from 1990 to 1991. 1983 MG Metro 1.3 (red) from 1991 to 1993 (this was great fun to drive but a little fragile) 1990 Austin Metro 1.3 GTa (white) from 1993 to 1996.

Nigel, many thanks for the pic - I know what it's supposed to look like now and can see which bit's missing. Kev, sorry you were right about that plate :oops: (I guess I was just confused coz mines as much rust coloured as black :) -see pic) It is the 'sticky out bit with hole' that's missing (I know all the technical terms :wink: ). As the black plate is still attached and doesn't look like it's easily removed - it looks like I can't just get a new plate welded on :( so I guess I'll just have to live with it as is for now (unless anybody knows better).

I'm not really sure what I meant, to be honest. :? I've not seen another Corrado fuel flap to know what the looking part should be like. Looking at my car, there appears to be a small hole in the body, next to the fuel cap, that I assumed was where a pin/rod attached to the flap would click into. There is a plate on the flap (don't think it's black though) that I thought the pin/clip must have broken off from. Majik, thanks for the advice - I hadn't actually considered that the central locking for the fuel flap could be broken.

The locking clip/pin/whatever on the fuel flap on my VR is missing - either broken or rusted off before I got it - so the flap doesn't lock. :( As a (hopefully) temporary measure I'm using a locking petrol cap from ECP, but I'd like to get the flap fixed and working on the central locking again. So, went to the dealer to price a new flap but the ETKA diagram shows a flap and a stop and the guy wasn't sure which I'd need. Anybody got any ideas? If I do just need the 'stop' part how do I go about removing what's left of the old one from the flap and fitting the new one? Anybody else done this?

The switch is completely different in mine though - perhaps if I post a pic once I get my car back from the garage somebody could identify a different VW that it originated from. Anyone know if there's an easy way for me to find out if it's just the wrong switch that's fitted so that hopefully I can just change this and have a fully functional sunroof?

Just wondering if my '93 VR6 should have a tilt'n' slide sunroof? As it only appears to have only a sliding roof controlled by a big chunky switch with just a symbol for sliding on it. I've seen a '96 Passat sunroof and that has a smaller, flatter switch with symbols for both tilt and slide. Should my car have been the same?

For the time being at least, I want the VR to be a daily driver (though I may change my mind once I see the mpg I get :wink: ) so the 'rocco will go. Bally, people think I'm mad doing 80miles a day, but 136? - you must be completely off your trolley! :lol:

Thanks guys - I'll be off to the dealer tomorrow with my shopping list, though I'll have to do without the CCGB discount this time (but will be joining very soon). vr6storm, thanks for the reminder for the fuel filter and the brake fluid - I'm getting the brakes checked anyway but had completely forgotten about the fuel filter.