tonytiger

This months 'Car' magazine has a good feature on the Veyron - they got to sit in on a high speed test run - though 'only' to about 215mph. It looks great IMHO (in photos anyway) possibly partly due to the two tone paint. Okay, so the car's performance is pointless in everyday driving terms but so what? It's a GT rather than a road-racer so should actually be okay to drive and reasonably reliable (after all, they've spent 2 years re-designing a lot of it). And I'd buy one if I was one of the seriously rich - think they've already sold about 20.

Okay, thanks for the info guys.

Right, I'm going to be upgrading the front brakes on my VR to a 288mm setup soon (I've just bought calipers and carriers) and I know I need late Mk3 Golf front brake lines, so I was going to get a set of goodridge braided hoses. But, I'll also be upgrading to Mk4 rear calipers at some point (but maybe not just yet). So, if I buy the goodridge late Mk3 Golf 6 line hose set will they fit Mk4 rear calipers or I would I still need to buy an adapter kit? Sorry if this has been answered already, but I've spent ages reading various threads on brake upgrades and not found a definitive anwser, and I really don't want to pay for something which I won't be able to use. Cheers, Tony.

Right, I'm going to be upgrading the front brakes on my VR to a 288mm setup soon (I've just bought calipers and carriers) and I know I need late Mk3 Golf front brake lines, so I was going to get a set of goodridge braided hoses. But, I'll also be upgrading to Mk4 rear calipers at some point (but maybe not just yet). So, if I buy the goodridge late Mk3 Golf 6 line hose set will they fit Mk4 rear calipers or I would I still need to buy an adapter kit? Sorry if this has been answered already, but I've spent ages reading various threads on brake upgrades and not found a definitive anwser, and I really don't want to pay for something which I won't be able to use. Cheers, Tony.

Note sure what the new MOT's look like, but I think they're all printed, with no handwriting. Quote from the VOSA website: After successful completion of trials VOSA began rolling out MOT Computerisation on the 18 April 2005 to all testing stations in Great Britain. All garages will be recording MOT results on the new centralised database and issuing the new receipt style MOT test certificates by October 2005. Along with this new MOT certificate motorists will be given an information leaflet ' Your new MOT certificate and buying road tax online' which explains these changes and the benefits of the new system

You need a new style MOT certificate to do this though, and not all test centres issue them yet - they're still rolling this out. My car was MOT'd last week and I got the old style certificate again.

Welcome to the forum Moonie! I had a simlar problem with the ABS light on my 'rado when I bought it. Sometimes the light would be on, sometimes it wouldn't - switching the car off and restarting would sometimes put the light out again. My problem turned out to be one of the wheel sensors - easy to replace yourself (once you've got the old sensor out) and cost me £41 for a front sensor. I bought a VAGCOM diagnostic kit which IMHO is essential for any VR6 owner. This will tell you exactly what the problem with the ABS is. Using a diagnostic kit is the easiest way to find the problem - either buy one yourself, see if you can find someone local with VAGCOM to diagnose it for you (there's a thread on here somewhere with a list of people), or take it to a garage that has suitable kit and get a printout. There is a way of testing the sensors manually - testing resistance or voltage, but I can't remember the exact procedure, though I think it's detailed in another thread somewhere. I'd also recommend getting yourself the Bentley workshop manual - quite pricey, but pretty good (it's cheaper to buy from Amazon Canada or America than the UK).

I've read that some people have found that the GSF ones sometimes don't last too long, and end up being just as noisy (or noisier) fairly quickly.

The Infinity 5000CS do fit the late door cards, as I fit these to mine last year. Think they were a tighter fit than the original speakers though. Had to remove the tray's when I did mine too, as I ran new cable speaker cable through and also hid the crossovers above them. kid corrado, just try again. If you sill can't get them to fit, perhaps you could post a photo to show the problem.

I think the G60 wiring must be different to the VR then as I couldn't see any additional connections near the plug. Also, the wiring diagram states a plug reference and pin number for the other connections - but not the ground. Is it self-earthing where it connects into the exhaust?

I'm having problems with my VR again at the moment - it's suddenly using too much fuel. I've got an AFR meter installed and can see that after driving the car for a while the upper value it shows gets lower and lower until it's constantly showing lean. I know this could be several things, but I want to concentrate on the lambda sensor first (which was replaced last August). I've attached a scan of the wiring diagram from the Bentley (which shows what you've said above RW1, including the possible shield connection). The diagram also shows a ground connection from within the sensor but I can't work out where that is. I want to check it / replace it to ensure that's not causing a problem. So, what I need to know is where does the sensor earth? Cheers, Tony.

Maybe it is now, but when the revised Metro range came out in 1990 I think they were fairly well received. My parents bought a 2 year old 1.4GTa in '92 and that was very reliable and a decent enough drive. Cars have moved on so much since then - it's Rover's lack of investment in new models that's been the problem. But clearly this applies to other manufacturers too - most other manufactures don't produce anything particularly desirable or the other models are more than you want/can afford to pay. I for one will be sad to see Rover go, perhaps not the greatest cars but certainly not the worst either. I hope that at least MG survives and can become a profitable smaller volume manfacturer.

I'm sure you'll have already had a look around this forum, but if you haven't already checkout the buyers guide at http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5124 Not too sure on price, but that sounds okay from a dealer - does it include a warranty? You could ask for a printout from the diagnostics to confirm that there's no electronic problems. Chains/tensioners shouldn't need replacing yet (and is subject to opinon as to whether they should be changed around 100k to 120k miles or just left). Check EVERYTHING carefully. Paintwork, engine bay, sunroof, aircon if fitted, heater/blower controls on every speed and direction, movement/tilt of seats, mirrors, MFA, absolutely everything. Parts are either damned expensive (mostly) or obsolete so be thorough. Also check that it's one key for all the locks (including glovebox). It needs to be virtually perfect really IMO for that money. Good luck!

I'm not usually that keen on blue 'raddos (no offence to anyone) but that looks absolutely stunning. I notice you said you sharpened the pics in photoshop - did you do anything to the colours, or use any filters? Perhaps I've just never seen a blue raddo in decent sunlight before. Anyway, your car looks superb - are you sure you actually drive it?

I can vouch for that - I struggled to sell my GTII, with wads of receipts, refurbished Scala alloys, mint interior and good mechanical condition - in the end it went for just £275. :(

I had 2 'roccos before the VR, both 1.8 carbs. First was an '85 GT'S' which I ran for 5+ years (I only bought it as a put-me-on for 6 months while trying to find a decent MR2). Had 100,000 miles on when I bought it and 205,000 when I scrapped it (needed far too much doing to keep it). In that time it suffered a cracked head (replaced with a cheap second hand one), a hole in the gearbox casing (replaced with a second hand gearbox) and a leaking fuel tank (repaired fairly cheaply) plus the usual stuff from wear and tear. Then I bought a '90 GTII in red (or pink depending how long it was since I'd T-Cut it). That had few problems - all cheap to fix - but I think twice it left me stranded and had to be recovered. As with the first, this had a problem with auto-choke on the pierburg carb (pulldown unit I think) but was fixed by the trader when I bought it. I'd done 60,000 in it by the time I sold it. Still in good condition when I sold it, with a few bits of rust developing - one on a door from a chip, usual bonnet stuff, around the side repeaters (wasn't visible with the unit in place) and just above the rear bumper. Loved them both and was really unsure about switching to a Corrado (18 months on and I'm still unsure). If I'd had space for 2 cars I'd not have sold. They're certainly pretty cheap to maintain mechanically (in my experience) and generally reliable. A lot the carb models end up with a manual choke weber carb to solve the auto-choke problems but there's no need for this. The injection ones are obviously more desirable but I can't comment on how reliable - but should be same as a golf gti. Body parts are obviously more of a problem, but there were so many made that second hard parts should be easy to come by. The end of the line carb models got electric windows, pas, etc - unsure what the injection models had as standard. A grand sounds quite dear to me unless it's mint with low mileage and history - most people want a golf gti not a scirocco. With steel wheels, this one sounds like a carb model - either GT or GTII. The GTII got colour coded trim - but I guess you'd not notice that on a black one.

Thanks for the info Supercharged - but I'm hoping not to have to replace all the linkage (well not yet anyway). randal_24, good idea - I'll see what I can manage tonight.

Had to leave my Corrado at home today as part of the linkage from the motor to the wiper detached itself, and so I couldn't see where I was going too well in the rain. :( Messed about with it for a while and could fit the linkage (I think it's called the operating rod) back on, but not sure how it's held in place. Haven't had chance to take any photos, as I had to get to work, so it's a bit difficult to explain, but looking at the other end of the rod with a mirror (it's the only way) there's a strange clip which may be part of the rod. Anybody know how this lot fits together (and comes apart for that matter)? I had a quick look at both Bentley and ETKA and still can't work it out. So, if the parts are cheap enough I'm going to buy a replacement rod, plus the parts that this connects to and hope the fixings are all integral. Anybody else had this problem?

I've found the page I was thinking of, but not as much information as I thought: http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=11083 It's good to see some photos of this work in progress GB_SEAN, and should be very helpful to plenty people - though I personally have no intention of doing this work myself on my car.

Didn't PhatVR6 do a quick guide to rebuilding a VR6 a while ago - including timing it up?

Assume you've a VR from your user name, so looking at your pic I think that's the plug on the top of the crankcase breather into the air intake just before the throttle body (but could be completely wrong). If so, then on uk cars this is just a dummy plug - if you unplug it you'll find it's just plastic underneath - so no need to worry about, mine's broken the same. In colder climates I think it's a connection to a heater element.

I've got a Parker's price guide from a few years back that I've kept for reference. Looking in there it quotes a '92 16v as £17275 when new - cheaper than the 1.8 16v was the year before! (Though in '92 the 1.8 16v also dropped in price to £17193). Prices seem to have fluctuated up and down for a couple of years across the range.

Is there a way to test the MAF self-clean feature when it's not on the car? Is it just a case of connecting some pins to earth and 12v? Also, how can I test this feature for a MAF that is on the car? Does it only work after the engine has been started, or is it every time the ignition is switched on then off? I understand that I should be able to see the wire glow for a couple of seconds during the clean cycle - is this correct? Thanks, Tony.

A little over 20k. I only have one car, don't like public transport, but above all I love driving - especially the VR :)

That's the noise damper for the ISV. Part number is 021 133 429A The two pipes that connect to it are part nos 021 133 374E and 021 133 374D