somersetdub

There should be a clip at the throttle body that allows you to adjust the cable and take the slack out of it- this would raise the pedal and allow you to get full throttle...

£65 delivered from Silverwagen on eBay :-/

Expensive, but they are nice! :-)

Fitted some nice new genuine vw carpet mats :-)

I used to work for a vw dealer, every new vw that came in for pdi (all had sonys fitted at the time) needed the power wires swapping round as they always lost their memory when you turned the ignition off.

Have wired mine back to switched live today, I'm actually preferring it that way anyway at the moment now.

I think you geniuses have just solved the exact same problem for me. :salute:

You got an alpine too?!

My alpine is wired to permanent live, but every car I've had i have wired this way so I can listen to the stereo with the ignition off.. But every other stereo I've had has been a kenwood. I will certainly rewire mine tomorrow to switched live and see if this remedies it.

Thanks!

You can just screw the speakers underneath and then cover the shelf in acoustic cloth, hiding the speakers! That's what I did on my mk2 anyway

...funny I've got an alpine head unit too!

Mine has been doing this too, after being left for over four days or so. It's not the boot light or glove box light staying on.

I intend to get to the bottom of this though as it's annoying!

I think the way to do it is to connect the multimeter and then systematically pull each fuse out. When the voltage drop stops on a certain fuse, you know which circuit the problem lies on...

Unless anyone knows a more effective method??

I actually just had to go out for a drive on such a perfect evening, just to remind myself of why I love the VR so much!

It's the smile it brings to my face when I drive it, especially when nothing is broken and everything is sweet like today - Doesn't seem to happen all too often! - But when it does, it's all so worth it :D

Seeing the look on pedestrians faces when you nail it and the induction roars!

Akinesis- not sure if it was him, but I know the owner of Martock Panelcraft owns a White G plater and I often see him around Yeovil

 

Could have been, then! Is he on this Forum?

Not sure to be honest, only spoken to him a couple of times. I know he's well into all things vw though

Akinesis- not sure if it was him, but I know the owner of Martock Panelcraft owns a White G plater and I often see him around Yeovil

Vacuum leak on the servo?

Air in the system?

Sticky calipers?

No worries mate. Like I said before though, if you remove the belt, then spin each pulley by hand, you should be able to quickly identify the offending item(s?).

Also, start the car with the belt off and if it's still squealing it could be the cam belt tensioner

The crank pulley bearings are the crank bearings themselves inside the engine!

Have you got that belt off yet!?

The only thing to be careful of when using wd40 is to not get any on the belt.. If the belt did turn out to be at fault and you put wd40 on it, that might cure the squeak too..

ABS light sorted! Turned out to be a dirty connection on one of the wires connecting to the pump!! What a result, I really thought I was gonna end up having to buy a new abs pump.

Sorry, just looked at your previous threads and realised you've got a valver, not a vr6! - the above checks would still apply though. Not sure if you have a separate tensioner pulley on that engine though or if the belt is tensioned on the alternator?

The best thing to do is remove the ribbed aux belt and spin each pulley in turn by hand to see if any of them are noisy. Hope this helps :-)

The tensioner pulley can become noisy- this happened on mine. Rather than buy the whole tensioner which is very expensive, I found a company in the US on eBay that sells the pulley separately, I can't remember exactly how much it was now, but it was pretty cheap. But it could also be any of the other rotating pulleys (pas pump, alternator)

Pulley bearings?

It's easy mate, just remove the centre console, the panel underneath it, undo the 10mm lock nuts and adjusting nuts on the cables and pull them through from underneath the car.

Sometimes the cables get a bit tight where they go into the car due to dirt/corrosion, but a bit of brute force should get them out.

Hey mate, I'm just down the road near ilminster, haven't done all the jobs you mentioned but am a trained mechanic, I'll give you a hand if you wanna go at doing some yourself