pagurus

Ran my G60 corrado on Synta Gold - Now "Quantum Platinum" for over 150K miles & 10 years. The engine is now at 190K (stock - not rebuilt yet), and still sweet as a nut :D http://www.vwspares.co.uk/product_info.php?products_id=1354

Did a refurb on my radiator and replaced the sensor (thermostat) connector. Is this link any good to ya :) http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=92070 Gud luck M8 :D

G-Werks will sell you an oil return pipe with new banjo and washers. I would replace both banjos, and the kevlar pipe they supply is upgraded over stock spec. Whole lot should be around £30 inc vat and delivery. Well worth the peace of mind for keeping your charger well supplied with oil :D Just give em a call and they'll take a card payment from you and post them out next day or so. http://www.g-werks.com/Site/Default.aspx?pageurl=Services_glader I had my charger serviced by them and bought the bits you are asking after. All good :lol:

Jeez fella - the cam belt change aint that bad! Tools http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... yId_165572 http://www.lasertools.co.uk/item.aspx?item=1686&cat=535 http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-AK224-Mi ... B000RA0XZK http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-24640-19 ... B0001K9RBM Belts http://www.vwspares.co.uk/corrado_belts.php Cam Belt Change viewtopic.php?f=1&t=93517 Crank shaft bolt replacement viewtopic.php?f=25&t=94367 I tipexed the crank shaft and intermediate pulleys. Counted the teeth on the fitted cam belt and used tippex on the new belt to set the same fix points. Re-fit the new belt, checking all marked points were in line. Voila :D Works perfik. A jumped belt probably means setting everything by the book tho :eek: My posts need - needs an update tho for the tooth count numbers ! viewtopic.php?f=1&t=93517 Gud luck buddie :D Can get the full method together if you are wantin it!, assuming you get a new cam belt, tensioner, and crank shaft bolt (advised). :lol:

Would the real KIPVR please step forward ! :D

Cheers Pete, did you mean KIPVW as no KIP_VR that I can find :scratch: :D

[/quote:3fvjxe20] OK - will do. :D Anyone done measurements on the G60's Hard Brake Lines BTW ? Anyone done a full Hard Line - to - Flexi Pipe conversion on a G60 ? Hate to be the first one over the wall on this :lol: http://www.goodridge.net

Corrado sickness. There's no known cure yet! :lol:

MMmm - look at these - :pale: Easy to tell if your need sorting, just get out your toolbox and pull a few, (one at a time of course ! Watch this, you don't want the engine falling on Ya) Any of these puppies showing signs of rust, just replace with brand new ones. Cheap and easy unlike most of the Corrado parts :D Pic shows examples of the main front bumper bolts from my 2 corrados. 2010 08 02 - Main Front Bumper Bolt Updates - IMG_3424.JPG[/attachment:19i4hsmn] There's 4x main big bolts, N 903 059 01 - Bolt Front Cross Member Main Bolt x 4 - £2.17 each 2x mid bolts and N 106 408 01 - Screw Front Cross Member Middle Long Bolt x 2 - £0.66 each 2 valance bolts. N 101 417 01 - Hex Nut Front Cross Member Valence Middle Short Bolt x 2 - £1.28 each Total for the front about £16 inc VAT. I used copper grease when fitting the new ones too. Not got part numbers for the back ones yet :D

I live in a rough area, so my G60's probably never going to get a much needed respray. For the next year or so, just going to concentrate on the mechanical soundness. If you sort out anything that's rusting, keep the oil fresh, and refresh the front and rear bumper fixing bolts. Other than that make sure the charger gets a new mini-belt before you can save up for a full charger rebuild and I reckon you won't go far wrong. :D Charger Removal & Rebuild http://www.kompressorkanada.ca/node/46 http://www.g-werks.com/Site/Default.asp ... ces_glader Another G60 fan - Yay :clap:

Top Tip Pete - . My hard lines are at the end of their lives and didn't realise Goodridge did the complete pipes to totally replace the hard lines. have you got part numbers for the full length hoses and I'm guessing all the clips need replacing as well, part Nos and supplier info for these too? :D

Glad your thinkin about getting a G60 :D. Owned mine since 1997. Most G60's showing their age now so it's not so much running costs as restoration then running costs. No probs if your mech savvy already or keen to learn :) If your serious about getting one, I'd think about a charger rebuild at £450. Quick run through of stuff I did on mine - a good strip down and clean up of the engine bay. Loads of the valances (front cross members) on these have plenty of rust and they need to be replaced. I got a good used one for £70, but have repainted it with POR15 (rust prevention paint) and injected a good dose of Dinitrol (like waxoyl but better), into it for good measure. Replacing the cam belt & tensioner, power steering, and main (v) belts is around another £30. Refresh all engine bay lubes - Dot4 brake £10, Quantum Synthetic Engine £30, Power Steering £8. Filters - Air £12 & Oil £9. Flush the water system and add two bottles of M12 Plus Coolant £16. If you've gone to the expense of having the charger rebuilt, you might consider going the whole hog and replace the V-Belt tensioner which will probably be on it's way out £80, and the two belt tensioner pulley rollers at £40. Replace all knackered and rusted engine bay bolts and fixings at another £100 say. I would replace the front engine mount £33 as a failure here can cause damage to the wiring loom. As they will all be in some stage of rust or other, It's a good idea to sort out the radiator cowl, front cross beam and member, intercooler bracket and charger stay while you are at it. All the prep treatment and paint stuffs for that lot is about £100. The rebuilt charger's gonna blow hard, so upgrade the boost pipe clamps and seal them properly £50. Throw in some tools like the Halfords Pro 150 toolkit £100, a 1/2 inch breaker bar £12, and a cam belt tensioner wrench £11. Other must do's include replacing the front and back bumper fixing bolts, and the crank shaft pulley bolt £15. The crank bolt should be replaced when you do the cam-belt. If any of the bumper bolts are rusted solid they may snap off when loosening, so it's best to just get fresh new ones and fit them quick-time. :D That's a bit more than a grand and you've to do all the labour (minus charger rebuild) yourself. Then on to the rest of the car. :norty: 30MPG and tbh, I would look into doing all the servicing myself. Garages tend to not like maintaining older cars as the labour to release rusted fixings can get a bit stupid. Some useful links to be going along with ... 8) Charger Removal & Rebuild http://www.kompressorkanada.ca/node/46 http://www.g-werks.com/Site/Default.asp ... ces_glader Rust treatment & prevention, prep & paint stuff http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp? ... 20Quart%29 http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp? ... ubCatID=37 http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp? ... 28473ml%29 http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp? ... 28473ml%29 http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp? ... hutz%20Gun http://www.frost.co.uk/item_Detail.asp? ... 20litre%29 Engine Mount http://www.vwspares.co.uk/corrado_other.php Belts http://www.vwspares.co.uk/corrado_belts.php Tools http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... yId_165572 http://www.lasertools.co.uk/item.aspx?item=1686&cat=535 http://www.amazon.co.uk/Sealey-AK224-Mi ... B000RA0XZK http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-24640-19 ... B0001K9RBM Fixings http://www.anyclamp.com/mikalor/shop.html Sealant http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Dow-Corning-Auto- ... 230882da0d TBH, the corrado is well built and should repay your attempts to restore her. Just sort out the major stuff like the lubes, charger and main fixings soon as you can. Good job the Corrados time and money well spent ! :D

RAMS seems to be doing this - Check page 3 of this link :D http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=90307&start=30 Gud luck O.C.D. :)

Had same prob with mine. Couldn't find a crank locking tool anywhere :brickwall: for my G60, so I made one myself. Did the job tho, but not sure how close the crankcase layout is to the VR. See my link for info on cranking the bolt ! It's sourced from other experts on here tho :D http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=25&t=94367

Intercooler refurbed and working nicely. All the main info is updated in the first post. :D

Hi - sounds like an airlock / lazy thermo - no idea, but just had identical problem and sorted it - Posted the same info for iMation too ... http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=94860 "Just had this exact problem after major refurb in the engine bay. Car was stood (sans oil and water), for three months or so. When I finished the engine bay rebuild, I let it run then after 5-10 mins, clunking, bubbling noises then the expansion bottle bubbling over. Drained the system again, same problem. Went through the cycle again, same result. Panicking it was the water pump :pale: . This time pulled the top hose between the water pump and engine block. Guess what, bone dry :brickwall: Also, the bottom hose was cold like yours :shock: .So got a funnel and filled the hose routed directly into the water pump. Water then started running out of the black plastic engine block junction. Re-attached the hose. Filled the system again then went for a drive with a 5 litre botle (engine oil container well flushed), of water just in case. En-route, I made sure to stop the engine whenever I was standing still for more than a few seconds. The out and return journey was about 35 miles. I kept up with the 'stop engine' regime till I got home, and then stood the car on my driveway with the bonnet up and engine running, holding my breath. The fan was kicking in at about 105% oil temp, and guess what, no more boil over. My water pump was replaced in 2006, and it wasn't making any noise(like it did when it failed), so I prayed it was not that. Seems to be fine now :clap: . Perhaps it's something about the components soaking in water for a while before they start working properly, i.e - the thermostat. Sure glad this sorted itself out. Hope this is helpful for ya :D"

Just had this exact problem after major refurb in the engine bay. Car was stood (sans oil and water), for three months or so. When I finished the engine bay rebuild, I let it run then after 5-10 mins, clunking, bubbling noises then the expansion bottle bubbling over. Drained the system again, same problem. Went through the cycle again, same result. Panicking it was the water pump :pale: . This time pulled the top hose between the water pump and engine block. Guess what, bone dry :brickwall: Also, the bottom hose was cold like yours :shock: .So got a funnel and filled the hose routed directly into the water pump. Water then started running out of the black plastic engine block junction. Re-attached the hose. Filled the system again then went for a drive with a 5 litre botle (engine oil container well flushed), of water just in case. En-route, I made sure to stop the engine whenever I was standing still for more than a few seconds. The out and return journey was about 35 miles. I kept up with the 'stop engine' regime till I got home, and then stood the car on my driveway with the bonnet up and engine running, holding my breath. The fan was kicking in at about 105% oil temp, and guess what, no more boil over. My water pump was replaced in 2006, and it wasn't making any noise(like it did when it failed), so I prayed it was not that. Seems to be fine now :clap: . Perhaps it's something about the components soaking in water for a while before they start working properly, i.e - the thermostat. Sure glad this sorted itself out. Hope this is helpful for ya :D

Awesome restoration thread Rams. Just shows what some dedication can achieve. :D

Nice one. I'm planning to do all the hard metal brake pipes but this will have to wait until the first payday in my new job startin in three weeks, so that's seven weeks away - :roll: . Great tip about bending the new line in sync with the old ones. There's bad rot on exhaust brackets as well, so just uncovered a load of other work that'll need doin - sheesh. This might sound daft but I rounded off the holding nut for the hard brake line to the offside rear. The nuts won't accept a 10mm spanner but the 11mm is slightly too big. I started fantasizing they are some weird size like 10.5mm. What size are these and are they simply a tight 10mm fit, but mine are grimed up. Can you clear this one up Rams? 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdf2010 07 10 - Bad Brake Pipe Fittings 01 - IMG_3513.JPG[/attachment:21ekjx61] The only way I could get it off was to destroy the brake line and hammer a 10mm long socket onto it. Bloody awful. On the driver's side the old brake line fixing was so badly seized, I had to grind it off. 2010 07 10 - Seized Brake Pipe Fixings - Driver Rear - IMG_3521.JPG[/attachment:21ekjx61] I sliced through it at point A, and it wouldn't budge, so I then sliced through the fixing at point B, and it dropped out sweetly. Gonna have to do some rust prevention work on this area before the winter though! Hopin to swop better parts over from my donor car, as they seem a bit less neglected than mine, till I get the pennies to do this properly.

Awesome work on making those break lines Rams! I had a break failure yesterday and all mine need doing. Any chance of a listing of parts and suppliers for the copper piping, unions, couplers and clips? How the devil did you bend the piping without it folding? Does anyone know the correct Goodridge Part number for the braided Pipes on a G60? Cheers :D

I'm no expert on here, but ... Just replaced my crank shaft bolt. Not sure if the one you (reused / put back) was one of these - Left - (Old Bolt) Middle - (PG Shoulder Bolt) Right (DX Bolt) 2010 06 25 - Crank Bolts - Side Profile View - IMG_3383.JPG[/attachment:33hflgbd] If it was like the left or middle bolts they were probably stretch (pg) bolts and should not be put back. For the sake of what they cost (£2.66), it's probably worth replacing it asap. DX Bolt details : V068 105 193 A - Washer (£3.43) - OUCH !! + VN 040 106 4 - Bolt (£1.30) PG Bolt Details : VN 903 208 02 - Socket Head Scr (£2.66)

Thanks for taking time out Henny, to contribute. Sure is appreciated. :D I'll revise where I'm up to, update the first page, and fine tune some of the questions ASAP. :salute:

Nice one - Supercharged. You mentioned you had a brand new intercooler ! - Vere do you live :norty: That's sweet. Wish I could say the same. :D I'd read somewhere it's the PTFE in the silicone that screws the Lambda sensor. The black stuff sealing the intercooler lid and base is different from what's been used at the boost pipe connectors. Just wish we cud speak to one of the engineers from the factory to clear this one up - :grin:

Building this thread with hopefully some help : :notworthy: I'm a fairly competent newbie, wanting to refurb my August 92 Tornado Red G60 Corrado. Refurbed Charger is back from G-Werks. Can't wait to install this baby - :D Decided to refurb the front cross member as well, and the oil cooler, and the radiator. Decided to replace the cambelt while so much stuff was out of the engine bay. It doesn't look too bad, but it's easily 95K since the last one. Have read all the threads I can find on cambelt replacements but still puzzled about some stuff. The manuals are like some cryptic puzzle :brickwall: I sure could use some help on this. :confused4: I've put my questions in bold and numbered them for easy reference. Some are just nervous worries, but most are critical to doin this job right. Wud sure appreciate comments, suggestions, answers as you guys see fit :notworthy: Please excuse some wrong terms as I'm not sure what I'm going on about here! ETKA Corrado.pdf2010 05 31 - CBCP - Engine Bay.JPG[/attachment:2ae9ki7q] I've popped out the spark plugs and the flywheel timing rubber bung, and twisted the crankshaft pulley vibration dampener to get TDC alignment. I've put lines in to show the alignment more clearly. stromlaufplan_gamma4.pdf2010 05 31 - CBCP - FlyWheel Allign 01.JPG[/attachment:2ae9ki7q] I'm happy I can get TDC at the bottom crank when I need to. (01.00) Just not precisely sure at what stages in this procedure I would do this. I'll need to remove the Crank Shaft Pulley Vibration Dampener to remove the bottom cambelt cover and the cambelt itself. I think removing this is just a matter of removing the four hex bolts. Corrado92.pdf2010 05 31 - CBCP - Crank Shaft Pulley Vibration Dampener.JPG[/attachment:2ae9ki7q] (02.00) How do I lock the camshaft pulley to loosen the four hex bolts? It's recommended in the manual to replace the 12point screw that secures the crankshaft pulley. (03.00) Is this the crankshaft bolt that's been reported as shearing on some other threads? (04.00) What tool do I need to loosen the 12 point screw, and where would I get it from? The cambelt tensioner will need loosening and torqueing during this. passat climatronic wiring diags.pdf2010 05 31 - CBCP - Cambelt Tensioner - IMG_3305.JPG[/attachment:2ae9ki7q] (05.00) How is the cambelt tensioner kept in position while tightening or loosening it's fixing nut? There is mention in the manual and in a thread about aligning the crankshaft vibration dampener pulley marker with the intermediate pulley. One thread says this isn't very important. (06.00) Does this marker matter at all for this procedure? climatronic wiring-Golf from May 01.pdf2010 05 31 - CBCP - Crank Shaft Pulley Vib Dampener - Position Marker - IMG_3302.JPG[/attachment:2ae9ki7q] (07.00) When the "crankshaft vibration dampener pulley" is removed, how do I make sure it goes back in exactly the same position on the crankshaft sprocket? The dizzy rotor is shown with the flywheel aligned to TDC, and the far right (passenger side) cylinder 1 piston at the top. There are no markings I can see on this, so not sure what to check here. 2.8l 24v Climatronic system.pdf2010 05 31 - CBCP - Dizzy Alignment at Flywheel TDC.JPG[/attachment:2ae9ki7q] (08.00) With no markings on the dizzy rotor body - how does this fit in to the procedure? Using a small screwdriver as a guide, the Cam Head sprocket TDC position (between the dots) seems to lie above the rocker cover edge marker. The next tooth on lies below the rocker cover edge marker. So moving the belt one tooth can not get a perfect alignment. Funnily enough one of the dots (teeth) has been marked with blue paint and this one seems to line up exactly with the rocker cover edge marker. 2010 05 31 - CBCP - Cam Head Sprocket - TDC Position.JPG[/attachment:2ae9ki7q] (09.00) Is it safe to take it, the blue dot (tooth), is the true Cam Head TDC marker for alignment to the rocker cover edge marker? I'll modify this first page as puzzles get unravelled. Thanks in advance to contributors - :salute:

Cheers for lookin in Steve029, Found what you recommend on ebay - "THIS IS PROBABLY THE BEST ADHESIVE SEALANT ON THE MARKET AND IS NON SHRINKING AND PERMENANTLY FLEXIBLE." http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/-PU-SEALANT-TIGER ... c1fed5e24b There's no mention of resistance to oil. Price is about same as Dow Corning Auto. Know anyone who's cracked an intercooler like this and re-sealed it?