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science

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Posts posted by science

  2. Posted

    Not quite true, I've made a few for people on here.

     

    I don't suspose you have any left on said shelf?

    Or could possibly consider making one for the right amount?

    They are much nicer than any I could make.

     

    Also loving those seat adjusters!

    Especially as I have none.

  3. Posted

    daves16v, that is very nice!

    I'm almost feel inspired to try and make my own now.

     

    It's a shame there's nothing available of the shelf for the corrado,

    and I can't see that one from a golf of passat will fit?

     

    Meanwhile I'm trying to decide between one of these.

    attachment.php?attachmentid=48130&stc=1&d=1311344593

    http://www.innovativcar-tech.de/index.php?cat=c62_Corrado.html

     

    or

    attachment.php?attachmentid=48131&stc=1&d=1311344639

    http://forgemotorsport.co.uk/content.asp?inc=product&cat=260501&product=FMBK

     

    now, if only the forge knob could be illuminated, hmmmm.

  4. Posted

    I like these Corrado dash blank size(ish) digital gauges.

    Can display EGT, MAP, Volt, Amp, Water/Oil Temp, Fuel/Oil Pressure. Or AFR if you have a LC-1 wideband controler.

    Can operate 3A relay for water/meth injection, fan, ect.

    Works out about £45 shipped to the uk.

    Makes me wish I had some dash blanks, and a turbo.

  8. Posted

    I've used Denso Iridium IK20 plugs, they helped a bit when I had some running issues, which turned out to be 6 bent exhaust valves.

    After running-in post engine rebuild I switched back to standard plugs to see if it made any difference, and it was not much, a little better pull top end with the IK20's.

    I think the BKR5EIX may have a fatter centre electrode aimed more at long life rather than performance.

  9. Posted · Edited by science

    I'm not a fan of exhaust wrap, it does work well but soon looks mankey and will rot away with time.

    When I fitted a heat wrapped 4 branch on the golf it sat about an inch from the UJ gaitor and didn't melt it.

    Best be on the safe side for the G60 though, so you may want something to reflect the radiant heat like this cool tape;

    http://www.designengineering.com/category/catalog/dei-cycle/insulating-materials/cool-tape

    Or make a heat shield out of aluminium.

     

    Bay temperatures without any heat management are going to get a bit scorchio!

    Ceramic coating are an alternative, I'll be trying some of Tech Line's Satin Black soon;

    http://www.techlinecoatings.com/Exhaust.htm

    It's a cheaper if more time consuming option to heat wrapping, although you can choose have it professionally sprayed for big money.

     

    Heat wrapping is still a good effective DIY option, just don't wrap too tight or with too much overlap to allow expansion of the manifold and help prevent cracking.

  11. Posted · Edited by science
    Wiring needed from ICM to Coilpack now correct thanks to J.C

    Well Roan, looks like I've actually bought your old coilpack, Cheers.

    So, if anyone else following this thread, here's the wiring info;

    I would advise caution in proceeding. You can damage your ECU and or ICM pretty easily, follow at your own risk.

     

    Testing the secondary resistance of the coils gives;

    coil 1-4 11.63k ohm

    coil 3-6 11.65k ohm

    coil 2-5 11.56k ohm

    Not too far off the 12k on the spec sheet so we are good to continue.

     

    Although...

    The coilpack ht terminal numbers should be ignored as in the saab/vauxhall has a different firing order;

    Saab/Vauxhall firing order 1 - 2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6

    VW vr6 firing order 1 - 5 - 3 - 6 - 2 - 4

    therefore the coils are paired differently (1&4, 3&6, 5&2 as opposed to 6&1, 4&3, 2&5)

     

    The original coilpack looks like this;

    [ 6 | 4 | 2 ]

    [ 1 | 3 | 5 ]

     

    When installed the saab coilpack looks like this;

    [ 1 | 3 | 5 ]

    [ 4 | 6 | 2 ]

     

    So when connecting the ht leads to the new coil we can just keep the original layout

    [ 6 | 4 | 2 ]

    [ 1 | 3 | 5 ]

     

    I should probably re-label the coilpack... maybe later.

     

    5pin plug from ECU into ICM (as viewed from above Pin 1 is at the front of the engine)

    attachment.php?attachmentid=48043&stc=1&d=1310599532

     

    Wiring needed from ICM to Coilpack

    attachment.php?attachmentid=78376&d=1398386345

     

    In the interests of keeping it OEMish (and cheap) I've extracted a 4 way JPT plug/pigtail from a 20v engine ICM.

    attachment.php?attachmentid=48045&stc=1&d=1310600945

     

    The plug just fits in between water pipes;

    attachment.php?attachmentid=48048&stc=1&d=1310601542

     

    The fit on the ht lead plugs is a bit tight, a little bit of silicone grease works wonders.

     

    So far the car seems much better for this mod, smoother idle and more responsive at low revs.

    Honestly, I can't believe how much of a difference it's made!

    The previous coilpack has only been on for 18 months and it was never this good new.

    Time for some proper testing... :-D

  13. Posted

    I've just picked up one of these 2nd hand this evening.

    Bosch Part No 0221503002 as fitted to Vauxhall, Saab and Ferrari F50 !!

     

    http://www.bosch-motorsport.com/pdf/components/ignition_coils/3x2.pdf

     

    The physical differences between my old Bosch coil-pack/ICM 0221603447 and this are;

    It mounts upside-down so the top and bottom row of connectors are reversed.

    There is no provision for the 3 rivets which secure it to the ICM.

    The electrical connections are via 4 way Junior Power Timer connector.

     

    Depending on your source coil-pack for the ICM the disassembly will differ.

    This may be useful if you have a different style coil-pack;

     

    http://forums.vwvortex.com/showthread.php?4587707-The-innards-of-the-ICM

     

    Separating the components of the old coil pack may be difficult as aside from 2 screws,

    the ICM is secured to the central spacer plate by brittle plastic tabs which are glued in.

    (The 4 rivets on the back of this coil-pack do not need to be removed, whoops.)

    Once the ICM is off 3 rivets run horizontally across the central plate this need to be drilled out to release the coil-pack.

    I've reassembled with pressure sensitive tape, although the four allen bolts should hold it all together.

    Now for the wiring....

  15. Posted

    Just bought a heated seat loom, unfortunately it's been chopped and it's missing a connector between the dash loom and the relay loom.

    The connectors that go to the seats seem to be the same plug, part no 191 972 723

    Anyone know where I might get one?

  17. Posted

    I bought a facelift Octavia - 2000 onwards - panel yesterday and offered it up to the car. It physically fits, screws into place, sits well against the roof line, however it has a late 6 wire loom with a circular switch.

     

    the rado has a three wire loom with toggle switch. I couldn't work out a way of getting the wiring to work with the rado loom.. and if i did, then I'd still be left trying to fit the octavia panel to the rado panel which would involve a lot of cutting.

     

    I tried swapping the motors, however the octavia motor is offset and screws in with 3 screws, rather than the rados two so they wont swap.

    .

     

    I've had a look at the loom on mine and it's 4 wire into the switch and 6 wire in the sunroof motor.

    Given that this is right loom, do you think the Octavia motor would fit under the Corrado panel?

  19. Posted

    I'm upgrading from 280mm standard vr front brakes.

    I've already replaced the rears for mk4 jobbies and don't want to add excessive pedal travel.

    I'm going for braided hoses so the Passat screw or Golf banjo connectors shouldn't be a problem.

     

    Are the Passat 57mm piston calipers any better the Golf 54mm for braking force / pedal feel?

     

    It looks to me like the Golf ATE 54mm calipers can be easily identified by the diamond hole in the side, is that the same for the Passat ATE 57mm calipers?

  20. Posted · Edited by science

    I bought a facelift Octavia - 2000 onwards - panel yesterday and offered it up to the car. It physically fits, screws into placI bought a facelift Octavia - 2000 onwards - panel yesterday and offered it up to the car. It physically fits, screws into place, sits well against the roof line, however it has a late 6 wire loom with a circular switch.

     

    the rado has a three wire loom with toggle switch. I couldn't work out a way of getting the wiring to work with the rado loom.. and if i did, then I'd still be left trying to fit the octavia panel to the rado panel which would involve a lot of cutting.

     

    I changed the switch from the toggle to the circular kind cus it looked nicer, didn't realise there was any difference I think it's 6pin on mine ('93 vr)

     

    EDIT: I think I see the problem now, it's not just the switch, the whole panel is different post 2000.

    I think the feed into the corrado switch is 3 wires (in a 4 pin plug) but the feed out to the sunroof is 6 pin. I'll have a look tomorrow...

  22. Posted

    Carb cleaner is good, Isopropyl Alcohol is better.

    What I did was;

    Fill ISV with IPA. Give it a whizz round with a toothbrush, spin mechanism with toothbrush handle, empty.

    Refill ISV and seal overnight.

    Empty next day and be amazed by quantity of dirt and metal particulates that come out.

    Re-lubericate ISV with light machine oil.

    Notice scratches and chips inside ISV.

    Buy new ISV.

    Job Done.

  24. Posted

    When I found the Octavia Estate Sunroof, I just took a chance because the glass had the same dimensions as the original sunroof.

    I could tell by comparing it to a neighbouring MK3 golf (which has too great a curve) that it was much flatter and looked similar to the Corrado.

    It turned out the whole set up was a perfect fit!

    I think the year was somewhere between 97-99, no plates so I don't know exactly.

    The Label has this on it;

     

    Rockwell

    FABA

    AutoGlass

    43R-001366

    DOT 500 AS3M04

    5 Tinted

     

    Which also turns out to be the same markings as the Passat B4 Glass.

    Hope this helps, good luck!

  25. Posted

    Yeah, It definitely fits but its best to have a second person to help.

    I have to have my seat all the way back so there was only one way it would fit (sideways).

    Boot hinges to the floor behind the drivers seat, number plate recess against the passenger rear window, interior side up.

    Best to take some foam pads or blankets to support the weight of the glass and protect the seats/trim.

    Fits a treat!

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