RowanVW

Hi all, thanks for the quick replies! Well just been out there had the wheel and stalks off, had a look at it and put it back on and now they are working again; I think it was just missing my tool kit/ love and attention to be honest! :)

As per title my indicators have decided to stop working, I have tried 3 different relays and checked the fuse, I know the bulbs etc are fine as the indicators still flash when I click the central locking! Any ideas what else it could be?

Hiya mate, hope you keep this as one of the only other people running ABF in a Corrado that I could find! I changed everything on mine so I can talk you through everything except the torque figures when rebuilding the engine, which we can easily find! If you want to cut your losses though its understandable, i've had mine a month and had to change the battery, indicator relay, clutch master, clutch slave, clutch and clutch fork and all the bulbs in the instrument cluster lol Heartbreaking, I wouldn't have kept it if I didn't love the cars and have the free time to fix it!

No worries mate, I wouldn't intentionally offer bad advice though! I would be really annoyed in your position aswell so fair enough! Some good advice in the comment above I think, I would take that knowledge back to where you bought it from and 'kick off' :)

The problem was the battery was not holding charge, in my experience once a battery has gone theres no bringing it back and a quick bit of research confirms this so why would I bother trying to fix it! The problem is when batterys go past a point, i.e a deep discharge you damage it beyond repair! I explained the problem clearly in my thread I had left the boot light on and I wrecked it beyond the maintenance things such as electrolyte and trickle charging. Sorry for trying to help! haha

Just had this problem! http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?57529-New-Battery-Keeps-Draining-Help-identifying-why

Without looking into it, I am sure the servo assistance is much greater in newer cars, thats why it feels when you go past the threshold the brakes suddenly grab! If you transferred everything from a newer car that would be one way to surely do it! But remember that big brakes doesn't always equal great stopping in everyday driving, the race cars I used to used to work on had massive brakes but they were shockingly bad until they were steaming hot!

hahaha, same, my girlfriend always winds me up if I havn't driven her car for a while, end up stopping 2m before the end of junctions, have to say they definately perform very well though if you should really need to stop quickly, but I prefer the Corrados' for everyday driving!

Have to say I hate the newer VW brakes, find them too sensitive for my relaxed style of driving, like to smoothly pull up not jolt to a halt if I go an extra half centimetre by accident Also I wasn't a fan of my power steering, I thought it was broken but have got used to it now and its great when on the road, just 3 point turns etc that are a pain compared to a newer car!

First little drive after fixing the problems and I saw a; Red G60 round the Goring area of Worthing, gave thumbs up and another Red Corrado going down the A24 towards the Findon roundabout, just moved down here so i'm impressed with the amount of nice cars i've seen already! Also got a flash from a slammed MK3 Golf so was a nice 30 minute drive for me :)

Changed the battery, all working now, new halfords battery with trade went from £65 to £38 so not to bad! Still dissapointed with GT's £40 battery going after so few months but lets see how this one gos!

Haha i'm thinking that must be the problem, it has a 2 year warranty so i'm gonna have to really search for the receipt, shocking for it to lasted only 3 months though!

Update, jump started, runs nicely, left it running for about 10 minutes... Battery Voltage as running sits at 14.33v, Turn the engine off and it drops to 12.5v Then slowly drops over the next 5 minutes to 12.03v and seems to stabilise So following the wiki guide disconnect the earth and put my multimeter in between on a setting of max 200ma as per wiki, I got 0.00 which indicates no draining and then a few minutes later when I tried to start the car it was dead again, the speedo seems to jump and the time display fades but the car doesn't even have enough power to turn over and the fuel pump whines weakly... Thoughts anyone, i'm losing faith in the car after all the money i've spent rescuing it...!

Followed that guide exactly, but unfortunately don't think I have enough charge, as I don't get any readings across the multimeter, will have towait till the girlfriend is home and get a jump start from her trusty TSI Polo :)

That sounds sensible, how do you measure the leakage level? Is that where you connect across neg and pos terminals? Or from positive to the chassis earth?

Yes lol, well of course as I had recently taken the starter off and various wiring had been disconnected I though that I had done something wrong putting it back together; Then i noticed that the fuel pump prime was severly weakened in sound and eventually the central locking stopped working last after the fuel pump stopped making any noise at all! + The fact that a jump start cures it instantly, but thanks for the input!

Recently finished an ABF conversion, KR and ABF battery were useless so i bought a new battery with a 2 year warranty, that im not sure I can find the receipt for! In the 2-3 months I have had it, the battery has been fine, car has always started, then recently I changed the clutch, clutch fork, master and slave cylinders on my car, so I didn't drive it for over a week + I had the boot open to get to my tools and I thought that my boot light drained the battery... So after a jump start I left it running for a while and then turned it off, an hour later the car wouldn't start again, The next time I took the car for a drive and the battery would start a few hours later but not the next day, at the moment I have no battery jacket but I would think this is less of a problem in summer? The Voltage jumps from 12 to 14v as the car is started so the alternator is working fine, I have taken the boot light bulb out, I have no stereo in at the moment, the after market remote central locking system I use has never caused problems before on either of the cars I installed it too... Where else could I be having a power drain from? Or have I simply destroyed the battery by leaving it for so long? Any advice at all is always appreciated, thank you!

My passenger doesn't open so I take the grill off and stick my hand in with a screw driver and manually open it by twisting the screw driver in the wire

I went through 4 different clocks and only the last worked, with everything. One took mechanical speedo feed and had a vac pipe, Two had digital speedo and vac pipe, Last one has JUST the usual connector to U1/U2 on the fusebox and this has worked fine! Basically the same loom works for all the clocks, just the rev counter and speedo might not, some take a mechanical signal and some digital. BTW the Golf MK3 loom is the same plug for Corrado clocks, so ive got the MK3 loom with VR6 clocks, but the MK3 loom takes a digital signal from the gearbox

I'm in Pulborough, if anyone's willing to lend a hand that would be amazing! RH20 area

Interesting, hopefully the standard one will be alright for me! Pretty annoyed that I've replaced the master cylinder at a cost of 110 quids lol. Also gonna be fun changing it on my driveway on my own, better take a strong pill the night before So the clutch fork from VW is 11.84, The bearing is 7.80 plus VAT from GSF And my clutch was £15 as an eBay gem! Brand new. Also going to change the inner driveshaft gaiter while I'm at it and I know that one of the bolts is rounded so I don't look forward to that!

Thanks for that, I hate having gearboxes off, never done one on my own! I have a clutch so just need to source a release fork and bearing I guess... So gutted apparently the engine and gearbox I had bought had only done 100k so is this normal?

Ok so the bite point is ridiculously low on the car, also when I press the clutch fluid appears under the slave cylinder even though everything is well done up and the slave is brand new! Also I've bled the system extremely thoroughly. I'm considering putting the car back in the garage as I need a reliable car for work, I expected problems with the car but considering how much I've spent fixing it I'm seriously gutted to not even be able to drive it! Any thoughts? literally have no money at the moment either as I don't start my job till September

I'm using vr6 clocks I think, they just have one connector at the back, no vacuum pipe or mechanical speedo connector, this is probably best for what you want, I get all the golfs ABF information including temperature. This is fed from a round connection that on Corrados is plugged into the brake ducting, because the golf loom is different I plugged mine into a hole I made in the plastic radiator channels as a quick fix.

I got a new master, new clutch, that's 150 quid which couldn't really spare, gonna be gutted to spend more out, luckily I picked up a new clutch a while back as I saw one cheap... The pedal does return back, but every now and then it gos flat, also it feels worse near the bottom of the pedals travel... Only driven the car 300 miles