tman2714

You know more than I do! So I unplugged the radiator fan last night but still came out to a dead battery this morning. Might be a silly question but is the fault still drawing power even though the fan is unplugged? Or is it something else? I'm stumped.

Hey lilfuzzer. Sounds like I might need one of those too. Need to work out which thought. Mines a 1990 1.8 16v. Any ideas?

So after getting the car started again I went for a short drive. Fan didn't come on until after I turned the car off and it stayed on for ages. When I unplugged the temp sensor connected to the radiator, the fan stayed on. Must be a dodgy run-on control unit or relay then? I need to check the fuses but ran out of time this evening.

The light I have is in the attached image. I'll do some investigating on the fan this evening. Hopefully its not the control module. Thanks for the tip on the airlock. I'll see if I can sort that out at the same time. Ugh! Only just got back on the road!

Thanks mat. I'll have a look at those tomorrow. Oh right, I'm referring to the light above the coolant temp. Must be the water low light then. I thought it came on when the coolant got too hot?

http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?85305-HELP-radiator-fan-on-all-the-time-with-ignition-off-draining-battery Just found this. Which is the three pin fan sender?

Hi all, Came out to a dead battery this morning. After trying to start the car the radiator fan came on so I'm pretty sure that's what drained the battery. After a very short drive over the weekend the fan came on but I didn't think anything of it then. I can jump the car then plug and unplug the fan as required but what could be at fault here? The brass coolant temp switch was replaced about 3 years ago. Could that have gone again? (last time it wasn't coming on) It's a cheap and easy fix so I might try that. Any other ideas? A problem that might be linked is when under hard acceleration the engine temp light starts to flash. As always, any help is much appreciated.

It's been a while as I worked abroad for a few months and moved house a couple of times but I'm finally reunited with my Corrado. She's mostly been sitting in my parents garage, gathering dust. I managed to remove and treat all the rust myself however I failed miserably to paint any of it. It was a combination of a lack of skill and time - rather than do little bits, I attacked all the rust at once making it hard to get a long enough break in the weather to paint. With this, I finally decided to get a respray. Not a full glass out, bare metal job ,no way could I afford £5k or whatever that costs, pretty much just a sand down, sort the dents and a blow over. I know everyone says to get it done properly if you're going to do it but I want to use my car at the weekend, not be petrified to take it out. Anyway, I'm over the moon with the result and it cost just over a grand. Picking her up. After a wash. So the next job was an MOT and tax to get her back on the road. Failed the MOT on the parking brake, steering gaiter unclipped and emissions. First two issues were easy fixes but the emissions were more trouble. I think it was a combination of the remapping, old fuel and spark plugs which meant it was producing too much CO and HC. Anyway, all sorted now. Time to get on with the rest of the stuff on the list...

Hello, Finally getting back to working on the C today but it's developed a strange issue. Under hard acceleration the coolant temp gauge rises and the light comes on. As so as you take your foot off the accelerator it drops again. Doesn't happen under minor acceleration. Any ideas what this might be? I've got a new coolant expansion tank so going to fit that today and change to coolant. Cheers, T

Thanks!

Hey, How dirty is the grey parcel shelf? Any pics? Reckon it will clean with a rug doctor? I'll also take the early rear window switch if it's original and still lights up correctly?

1.8 16v I'd be up for it if it was in August. Need some time to get sort my rust out otherwise I'll be put to shame! I'm in Herts/London. West Mids seems like good idea for a place to meet.

No pictures of them in the car at the moment but I have a blue powder coated inlet and black rocker cover. Both have some diamond cut detailing. Would have probably preferred just a polished inlet with blue VW and DOHC but it's grown on me. Would like to get matching hoses and HT leads to complete the look. It's a little Fast and Furious but I like the stock/ratty/rusty look on the outside, with a surprise engine bay. Rocker cover Inlet manifold

Another vote for Rainsports here. Good in the wet.

Thanks. Might just get a new housing from eBay. My current one looks nowhere near as professional as yours! http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VW-Corrado-Anzeigenhalter-VR6-G60-16V-2-Loch-Schwarz-/190374390335?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_77&hash=item2c5332aa3f

Thanks very much. Yeah mine is 1990. Will have a look for the early style ones. Cheers.

Hello, Would love an original oil pressure and volt gauge. I've got aftermarket ones in at the moment. What are the chances of getting hold of these? They seem pretty rare. Which models were they fitted to? VR6? Any particular year?

Looks great. Neat boot set up. Good effort with the rug doctor. Might do mine this summer.

Thanks guys! Love the white too.

I bought some of these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PASSENGER-LEFT-BLUE-TINT-FLAT-HEATED-P-WING-MIRROR-GLASS-VW-CORRADO-88-95-/330947219162?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&fits=Model%3ACorrado&hash=item4d0dfdceda There's a description on the ebay page as to glass shape and if it comes with a plastic plate or not. I got plastic plates with mine. Pretty generic and would be better to keep the originals but they work fine. You just need to stick them in the right place to make sure they line up properly as the glass does seem a little smaller than the original. The blue tint does make a difference. For 10 quid, I recommend. I think they sometimes do a buy one get one half price too.

Thought it was about time I started gallery thread as I’ve found going through other members’ galleries so useful and inspiring. I’m not with my car until July so only one photo for now. So here she is - Catlin. AKA The White Streak (a somewhat ironic nickname coined by my friends) Bought her from a guy in Newcastle in 2010. He sent loads of photos and scans of the important paperwork. I was confident she was the one so I only bought a one way train ticket (I live in Herts). I’d only owned a 1.2 Fiat Punto before so the midnight 250 drive home was brilliant. Original plan was to fix some dodgy bits, get her as back to as standard as possible and sort out a few spots of rust. I removed all the aftermarket interior parts for originals, fixed the passenger side window and swapped the 17” 5 spoke rims for 15” BBS wheels (not sure the exact type). Removed sub and replaced boot carpet. I’ve left her on the lower coilovers and the strut brace in. In 2013 I had quite a lot of work done to the engine by CFM Engineering. Exhaust was also blowing so sorted that too: • Cylinder head cleaned, ported and gas flowed • Uprated metering head • Fast road cams (will have to check the spec- Schrick 268 possibly) • New followers, head gasket, head bolts • 50mm inlet manifold (blue powder coated and diamond cut) • Diamond cut rocker cover • Milltek manifold • Supersprint straight through system • Rolling Road set up She went in with about 120hp and came out with just over 160hp and 130ft-lb. Also I’ve got some piece of mind the engine seems to be ok and the chassis is sound (don’t want to jinx it too much!). The car pulls well and although I’ve not taken over the speed limit, I imagine it does 120mph very comfortably and has more to go. Didn’t go for the full bore out, 9A bottom end and new pistons as it was just too far out of my budget and I was keen to keep original with tweaks. Gas flowed head Rocker cover Inlet manifold What’s next? Well there’s snag list below that needs attention but in terms of more interesting mods I want: • Standard rear lights – coming soon ( thanks to Southener88 ) • Wide Steelies - 9” in black with stretched tyres – inspired by lilfuzzer • Most controversially - Raail coat in white (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k7cjqP5Owxs essentially plasti-dip). Simple fact is there’s no way I can afford proper respray at the moment so the plan is to sort the rust and smooth the existing paint myself (this summer) then get is plasti-dipped for a few years until I can get a respray. Yes I know the quality won’t be anywhere near a respray but it’s got to be better than the rust, egg shelling and 50 shades of white that are on there at the moment. I also know it could wreck the paint underneath but I don’t see that as a problem as when I take it off I’ll want to respray it anyway. Apologies for the length of this post but I find details and stories really useful. I hope you do too. Snag list Exterior • Windscreen crack - DONE • Windscreen rust - DONE thread here http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=89778 • Fix drivers side heated mirror - DONE • Rust patches • Washer jet unblock • Spoiler service/replace motor • Rear washer jet - glue pipe • Re lock door handles – (soon thanks to lilfuzzer) • Mould on roof trim Interior • Heated rear window switch light- DONE • Gut unnecessary wiring - DONE • Drivers electric seat motor • Fuse box clips • Glue headlining • Passenger side window trim • Mould on window trim Engine Bay • Radiator fan rattle - DONE • Battery matt and cover/jacket • Other engine part covers • Clean • Tidy wires

I was assuming the door lock long rods were part of the handle lock mechanism but upon googling it, I don't think I need them. Just the door locks. If you could post a picture of both, I'll be able to say for certain. Thanks!

Hey Chris. I think I'll go for the door locks and long rods. Previous owner delocked the car (took the locks out and left holes)and I want to re lock it. I'm not with the car for the next few months so it's hard to tell what I need. I think this sounds like it. Will they come with keys or will I need to get them re-keyed? Thanks T

PM'd

I'll take the early rear light if the cracks are only small and you can post them to SG4. Any photos of the cracks? Do they/did they work ok when you took them off? Thanks T