dghodges

I don't think you will need to change the tensioner it self, after all it is just a spring, so would probably not make a noise. You can change the bearing on the pulley for £5 as long as you have access to a vice and a socket set or similar to go against the bearing face as you press it out. There's a good write up here http://wiki.the-corrado.net/vr6_belt_tensioner_pulley_repair.html Cheers

Glad you got it sorted! Another little piece of info that I believe is true as I'm sure one of the 'gurus' on here said...the lambda sensor is ignored above 4000 rpm. This would explain when I had the exact same problem last year in a flood. The car wouldn't idle very well and definitely wouldn't drive. Though start the car on full throttle and it would run to the red line perfectly. I hope that is true as it certainly was the case for me. Thought it might help diagnose lambda probes for a few people in the future! :D Dave

Just to hopefully make you feel a little bit better, the heater matrix would more likely make the windscreen steam up when you turn the heater control to hot than make all of the windows steam up. That is most likely just the fact that you have damp in the car and the cold weather. Good luck finding the problem! :scratch:

Not sure if its different for a vr but I managed to change the heater matrix on my '92 16v without taking the whole dash out, just most of the centre console and panels above the foot well. Wasn't the easiest job but having seen the pictures of cars with the whole dash out I didn't really fancy doing that! This is actually how the 'how to' in the KB explains it http://the-corrado.net/wiki/index.php/H ... eplacement. The guide is slightly over simplified but once you follow the guide and see what your actually trying to get to its becomes self explanatory. Just to add, my dials steamed up just before my matrix went but still steam up occasionally now and again, probably a bit of residual damp in the car. Have you spilt anything in the car or left the window open when it has rained?

Just found a good post on Club GTI http://clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=49628 It seems to suggest that the ECU or at least controller (if exists on a 9A) is clever and detects the ISV being connected. I think i'll be doing as easypops says first i.e. checking throttle switch, and also seeing if the 0.25V I measured on my DMM is any different with an analog one or an oscilloscope. I don't get any buzzing though...with either ISV. I'll let you know...

Cheers for that easypops, I have checked the switches in the past but not since this problem started. That would probably have been my next check had I not spotted that the 12V to the ISV drops considerably as soon as a load is presented i.e. plugged back in. I'll probably still check the throttle switches but i'd be surprised if the ECU would be clever enough to know when the ISV is plugged in and hence drop the voltage :? I wouldn't be surprised if it is something like you suggest in KaiserVR6 and Kuipers23s case. Thanks for the input!

Other question was...Does anyone know which pins the two ISV wires go to on the ECU connector? Should be able to supply 12V across those to the ISV to eliminate either the wiring or the ECU. I've got another copy of the passat haynes manual coming tomorrow all being well, lost mine in the recent house move. Hoping the pins and wiring will be in there if no one knows. Cheers

A little update... I'm still unsure my ISV is working, well i'm slightly more sure it isn't now. I've stuck a multimeter across the connections to the ISV (with it unplugged), both with the ignition on and also with the engine running, both times I get a reading of 12V...correct i assume? Now when i plug it back into the ISV and remeasure, again with the igition on and with engine running I only get a reading of 0.245V. I have tried this with two ISVs with the same results. I'll make sure at work tomorrow that they do actually work when supplied with 12V. So I'm now thinking (assuming ISVs are working, will check) that either the wiring is not very good and not capable of supplying the 1.5A (12V / 8 Ohms across ISV terminals = 1.5A) or something is more serious inside the ECU, duff regulator or bad earth to ECU? I think this is a sensible line of thinking, any condtradictions or advice welcome...

My idle has gone from intermittently causing minor idle problems to now it wants to stall all the time and now actually does stall. For months the idle has been fine. The first signs of a problem was when driving, the car was up to temp and started getting a bit jerky on/off throttle and the idle started bouncing at just over 1000 RPM. At first this didn

Thanks for the quick reply Dave. I'd read in one of the previous posts by Andi "changed all of the above then . and nothing??? still wont run. any ideas??" and assumed he was implying he had changed the lambda probe and hadn't helped. maybe i read it wrong. It was something i was thinking of testing as i changed the cat about a month back and it was a right pain in the **** to get the lambda probe out of the old cat. I also noticed that some of the heat shielding was damaged. Its been fine since but this is probably the first time its been through any serious puddles and most likely got quite wet with all the slush etc on the roads. I remember looking at the time at the price of a new probe as was getting unlikely i would be able to get the old one out...it seems that the probe for the 2.0 16V is about twice the price of any other corrado. Plus GSF don't stock the 2.0 16V one?? Does anyone know if this is really the case? its a 1992 K reg 2.0 16V

When i had my 1.8 valver i had a similar problem. It was my own fault I had snapped off the vacuum hose to the overun cut-off valve, grey thing found directly behind the airbox, has a pipe coming from the airbox and one from the intake pipe. The revs would sit at 2500-3000 between gear changes and when in neutral. I should imagine a vacuum leak in any of that area would cause similar effects. 'Tis worth a look if the temp sensor doesn't help.

Does anyone know if AndiG60 sorted this problem out? Mine has suddenly started doing the EXACT same thing. I did have a few problems last week after taking the airbox out to drill a few holes :wink: To get to the airbox i disconnected all the surrounding connectors. After putting it back together, occasionally when accelerating hard the engine would suddenly loose power as if the fuel had been suddenly cut. I took all the connectors off again and cleaned them up, all seemed much better afterwards and the mpg was back to normal ~33, whereas during the problem was about 24. I drove it yesterday morning to collect something...was going great, went through some rather large puddles but car was still running fine no signs of any problems. Turned the car off for 10 mins, went back to it and it did exactly what andiG60 has described. It runs fine for 45 seconds to a minute when cold then goes crazy or 3-4 seconds when warm before going crazy. It definitely seems like fuel starvation... The revs just do not want to increase and there is no power. I can get it to rev if i pull up the metering head flap by applying an upward pressure on the mixture screw and turning the throttle at the same time, as if i can force it to fuel correctly. Another funny thing is that it will burst into life when at full throttle. I have some ideas, like checking the current to the fuel pressure thingy me' bob on the side of the airbox, as mentioned previously in this post. I just wanted to see what the outcome was for AndiG60 before i spend hours messing around on a car i really need working for my daily commute to work (commuting in a corrado, silly i know??) Thanks

I've driven around quite a bit more in the car and it seems to click and make funny noises on near to full lock when driving at slow speed. It sounds to me that it might be the outer CV joints. I've bought new ball joints and top mounts almost as a matter of course and hopeing to shed some light on the creaking/clicking before spending loads on full wheel alignments and jigging. I'll let you know what happens... Thanks

Right... Set the tyre pressures and went to get it tracked today. Unfortunately the tracking was pretty much spot on. Looking at the car it is possible that there is slightly too much positive camber. I think I will try the camber adjustment myself first to see what effect this has, if any then i will take it somewhere to get it properly setup. Guessing if that doesn't work then it is the caster?, something i believe there is not much adjustment for and implies that something is bent (arm etc.)

Ummm... not too sure about 4 wheel jig...i guess thats not something that every garage does?? The place i normally go to does a 4 wheel alignment, things on the rear wheels and align the front wheels to the rears and to themselves. The garage doesn't do camber setting, so i guess it doesn't do caster either. I'm still a bit clueless about what caster actually is? any dumbed down explanations? Anyone around the newent (gloucester) area or malvern (worcester) where I work, know of any places i could get a full setup done? I work at same place as Mike Edwards so i'll hassle hime as he'll probably know of someone. Cheers and happy New Year

Maybe buying this C will be the start of me making many posts :lol: Yeah had a thought last night about camber and tracking. I guess even without the rack or power steering working the front wheels should still try to centre themselves. At the moment you can almost blow on the wheel and it will go into a corner and will stay steering that direction with your hands off the wheel...not that I generally do this lol. I had another quick look today in the light after xmas lunch, there seems to be a bit of a flat spot on the drivers front wheel, so obviously hit a kerb or pot hole. Will get it checked out soon as poss. Another thing...the cat is making a terrible rattling, mainly at idle, especially as it seems to idle a bit low and irratically when cold. I'm thinking the cat has obviously seen better days. The car was first registered 24/11/92 on a k plate, can i legally get rid of the cat? Thanks folks

I've just bought a 2.0 16V C and the steering is exceptionally light with no feedback, i.e. it doesn't try to centre itself. There seems to be no play or notchyness as described by others. I'm having no luck finding other similar threads. To save reiterating yourselves if there are similar threads please just post the link. Thanks in advance! D. P.S. Have a great Christmas all!!

Posted the same thing on vwvortex, someone said that it could be a tooth missing on 4th gear. Still seems to pull ok in 4th, but the gear stick does vibrate a bit. 2nd gear seems fine in all respects. Thanks for your help.

Hi, I've been searching all day for a related post but have not been successful. I have recently changed my 16V C for a '94 VR6 mk3 golf (due to lack of funds for a vr6 C). Everything seems fine with the gearbox except that when driving along in 4th, the gear stick jerks forwards and backwards as the accelerator is pressed and depressed. This is not really causing any problems, but i would like to get it sorted for when i come to sell it...to get a C again! :D Thanks in advance Dave

Excellent, still curious about what the mark is in the centre at the bottom...nevermind though. Thanks

I'll have to have a look at someone elses C to compare. There are a lot more of the dots at the bottom (100-150mm) than at the top (maybe 30mm)... I'll update you when I have a look another C. Cheers

Hi folks, I'm pretty sure my '91 16V has had its windscreen replaced with an upside one out of another car. I'm thinking this because most of the shading that is normally at the top is at the bottom and there is a mark at the bottom where the rear view mirror was attached. Has anyone else seen this done or even had it done? I'm curious as to what make and model of car the windscreen was taken out of. Cheers, Dave

Hi all, I've got my heart set on buying a 90/91 G60 but had a horrible thought that there might be an age restriction on getting insured. At 22 years old in England will I be able to be insured and does anyone know of decent brokers for young drivers? Hope ur answers are YES YES and YES!! Cheers, Dave (budding enthusiast)