rickdonald

Just offered them up to the car, the centre-bores are about 60mm so there are no problems there, will maybe need some spigot rings to bring it back to 57.1, also the bolt holes are the right size for M14's. But looks like I'm going to need some spacers, the front catch on the brake carriers, and on the rear the dust cap for the bearing pushes through the wheel centre caps. So I'm on the look out for a pair of 10mm spacers for the front and 15mm for the rear I think, and some longer bolts

Hi, need a little help, i have tried searching but more than anything just need some clarification. I just got a set of 17" speedline wheels off ebay just need a little advice on how to fit them, the advert says offset of ET48 so to get back to the VR6 offset i'd need 5mm spacers? to bring it back to ET43? is that right? or will I need more like 10-15 to make up for the wider tires? The only other thing that's worrying me a bit is the centre bore diameter, there wasn't really any info on the size so i don't know what to think? Anybody any ideas? Thanks Rick

Yer thats what I thought, managed to struggle about with it last night and sort it...(for now at least). No idea how long it will be till it does it again though. Annoying becasue it makes the drive alot less enjoyable. Also when trying to fix it noticed the bearing had dropped down too and I have lost a couple of ball beairings. So i'm going to have to replace them too. Think I may have to invest in a set of coilovers and replace the the whole lot, they are looking very tired, have lots of 'coil shaped' flakey red paint all over the drive from trying to sort it last night! Everytime I seem to go near the car it seems to give me a beating and run off with my wallet!

For anyone else who has a problem like this, I had a look at it last night, and looks like the spring plate, between the top mount and coil spring has moved, and slipped into the middle of the coil, guessing through it being the wrong size for the coil, or being built up incorrectly.

Ha never thought to type 'dead' or 'shot' into the search. Cheers So you think there the passenger side looks ok? Just confused me that instead of it pushing the top mount right up it seems to have fallen down? would have thought if the coil or anything else had collapsed or broken it would have meant the car sat more on that side pusing the top mount up? not down. Cheers

Right, here goes. I set off to work this morning I noticed the car was pulling to the left quite badly, to begin with, then after a while it seemed to ease off. Anyway when I got to work I had a look around and noticed my top mounts are completely different heights, I have done a bit of searching but couldn't really find an answer. I know they shouldn't really be different heights, and from looking at other pictures I have seen on here it looks like the first picture (drivers side) is the one that's not quite right. The car was parked on the flat with the wheels straight ahead, not sure whether something isn't quite lined up right in the strut. Managed to get an exploded diagram from Vagcat too for reference. bit nervous about taking it apart before I know a bit more about it, as its my daily and I have an annoying habit of making the simplest job very hard! Really appreciate any help or advice, Rick [ATTACH=CONFIG]46650[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]46649[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]46651[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]46648[/ATTACH][ATTACH=CONFIG]46652[/ATTACH]

thanks for the replies guys, I will have a good look with the bumper off tomorrow, as for the radiator the guy said he will give me a refund, so fingers crossed will take it after work. Hopefully my current fix will hold out abit longer, while I find another.

Sorry should of been abut more descriptive, it's the one that holds the front engine mount. You undo the 4 17mm bolts (2 either side), to remove the front bumper, then there are 2 bolts remaining which hold the front engine mount x-member. One of these bolts was missing and when I replaced it, it just seems to be spinning in the hole, I'm asking whether there is a captive nut or something on the other side of the "arm" it bolts to (not sure what to call it). I will haves look for a picture.

Hi, looking for a bit of knowledge and advice: My radiator on my VR last week, I have managed to get a replacement, an Denso Marston OEM one from a breakers in Blackburn, but on closer inspection it looks like it may have a leak too. I doubt I will be able to return it as it was a quick deal and I stupidly didn’t ask for a receipt or anything, but at the time he said it didn’t leak and was fine...oh well Anyway, I was going to try and fit it this weekend so was checking it over last night; I tried to cover one end and blow down the other to see if it was sealed, but it was bubbling around at one end of the plastic. Where the top elbow is, there is the little L-bracket which attaches to the ‘slam panel’, I have managed to remove the L-bracket from its recess, and it looks like there is a small hole at the bottom. Do you think it is worth trying to seal it with a metal epoxy? Then put the bracket back in and seal it all up? I have used the epoxy stuff on my current radiator as a temporary fix and it seems great, the hole was in an awkward spot and was full of dirt and cr*p, but it seems to be holding brilliantly. So I was thinking if I can clean this hole up easier, and access is a lot better, would it be worth while doing? Or realistically am I going to have to bite the bullet and get a new rad? One more question too, I looked at my car to get an idea of the job replacing the radiator, had a go at seeing how tight the 4 17mm bolts are for the bumper underneath (very incidentally). But also noticed that one of the 13mm bolts which holds the sub frame temporarily (when the bumper is out) is missing. I managed to get a new one, but when I screwed it in discovered why it was missing, feels like its all rusted in the thread, and the new bolt is just spinning, just wondering if anyone knows... if I get a longer bolt, and a nut for the other end, would I be able to get in once the bumper is off and tighten it up properly? Thanks in advance Rick

Aright mate, think i can help abit, anyone else correct me if im wrong. 1. The inner chambers are the main beam, they are H3 bulbs and should come on only with main beam. 2. The outer chambers sound right. They are H4 bulbs and should do both dipped beam and main beam. 3. The fogs could be a fuse, i had a problem with mine, and the terminal which connects to the bulb was abit corroded, try having a fiddle with it and rough it up abit. 4. As for the rears, mine are tinted red too. I have amber Led bulbs in mine, which show up amber through the tint fine, although you need to add a resistor in line to slow the flashing down. Or I think some people have used a green tint on the bulb, this makes the flash orange through the lens. Either that, or like you say strip the tint down. Hope this helps Rick

Sorry Tom, I've actually just got hold of one before, sorry for the messing. Thanks anyway. Rick

Thanks Ian, I will have a look at it when i get home. Just out of interest, the one you bought from ebay, was it a direct replacement or did it need re-wiring? I think i blew something on the circuit-board the other day shorting the light terminals. so not sure whats the best thing to do. Cheers

Aright mate, you dont still have the interior light fitting/circuit board do you? Cheers Rick

Has anyone got an interior light module, with the circuit-board? not sure if the early and late ones are the same, but if not then I need a late one. Cheers

Yer, I took one out to check it, number 21 or 22 I think. The one that does the main light, the Clocks and the spoiler I think, haven't looked at the other one, but everything still works. Just tried to have another look. Cant fathom it out, just doesn't make sense to me that there is a wire that goes +ve when the doors are closed, I would of thought if anything it would of been the other way around, if the light is supposed to come on when the door is open. Which is making me think maybe I have blown a diode or something one the light circuit board. Think your motto applies perfectly here ha " if it a'int broke. Dont fix it". Guess I'll never learn

Does anyone now the basics of the interior light loom and how it works? I was installing another light yesterday and two tires have crossed (that shouldn't have) I 'think' it was the positive and negative output form the light socket (cant remember exactly), and they shorted, I separated them quickly, but I think its done some damage. Now my interior light seems to be staying on constantly. even when i turn on the ignition and shut the doors. I have measured the voltages to the 4 pin socket to the interior light and they are just confusing me. There is one pin with two brown wires going into it, which is a ground, One pin with 2 reds, which is a constant live. Then another pin with a brown/white wire, that seems to be connected to one of the wires to the door switches, which is at 0v when the doors are open, then 12v when they are shut???? and the final pin which has a blue/black wire to it, and that doesn't seem to do anything. Anybody any ideas? I've had a quick look at the Bently manual, but cant find a wiring diagram for the interior light. Also noticed when I was looking at the door switches, they have 2 wires going to each of them, one at about 5v and one at 12v? when the door is closed the are both isolated, then when the door is open, they both ground? does this sound right? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers