welshside

I've got a similar problem. My keys only work on the ignition and boot lock so I have to use the key fob to open it up, which is fine till my battery decides to go flat and I have to crawl through the boot to reach the door lock. I looked at that retumbling guide a while back but it looks like you need the correct key for the barrel to remove it. Anyone know if you can you get the barrel out without the correct key?

Did anyone else make it to dubs at the castle, I went on the Sunday and this is the only rado I saw [ATTACH=CONFIG]68613[/ATTACH] My mate popped down on Friday and said it was a nice rado there though. I was looking forward to seeing some more in the flesh as there only seem to be a few floating around the area.

Hi welshlee, was your car at castle retro? The wheels and yellow lights look familiar.

I bet it's a huge weight off your mind now it's over. I'm probably going to dubs in the castle, not sure what day yet though.

I'm glad it worked out for you, it didn't seem like they had much of a case against you in the first place. Just because you have a modified car doesn't mean your going to drive like a maniac everywhere (not all the time anyway) Didn't they say anything about your driveshaft damper?

Hi, I've got a G60 in Newport

I found this beautifully filmed Corrado video when browsing the web, well worth a watch.

I just replaced the plugs, leads, dizzy cap and rotor which solved the problem. Went for a little drive and it's running like a dream now. I'm so glad it wasn't a bent valve.

The dizzy rotor didn't line up with the notch on the body but we pointed the rotor at the number 1 lead and then used a timing gun to set ignition timing. I took the pipe off, gave it a bit of a rev and there wasn't a loud bang or popping. Here is a video to hopefully give a better idea

I am hoping it's not a bent valve, compression test seemed fine and it turns over by hand ok but it's still a possibilty, fingers crossed the valves are ok. I'll try popping that pipe off for a quick test this week. I took a photo of the supercharger outlet and a small pool of oil on the bottom. I think there is more oil there than should be, but could just be me being paranoid. [ATTACH=CONFIG]51273[/ATTACH]

The oil is in the main boost pipe coming out of the supercharger not the boost return, seems a bit more than it should be. Sorry I'm a bit confused what pipe you mean. Is it the one from the intercooler to the TB, is it a safe thing to take that off and rev to give it a test?

Do you mean the hose to the ECU? I will try it see what happens. I did an oil change today and took the pipe from the supercharger (the one to the intercooler) off to try and get a better grip on the oil filter which was real tight. The pipe had a bit of oil gathered at the bottom of it, I know a film of oil on the pipes is normal, but should there be any more than that? There is also a bit of oil on the underside of the charger which looks like its been happening for a while. The oil level hasn't changed much since I bought the car a few months ago, so it isn't loosing much oil at all. Could this be causing/adding to the running problems?

I haven't got a mark on the flywheel, but got all the pulley marks lined up at TDC. All seem correct

To thoroughly check the valves I would have to take the head off which is a last resort. I think the pinned pulley should be all lined up to the crank because there was enough of the key left to know the position it was sitting in. I'm pretty sure the timing is correct, we found cylinder 1 tdc, lined up the 2 dots on the cam pulley between the tab on the rocker cover but had to mark the flywheel in the centre with white out because there were no markings there. The timing gun was set to 6 degrees using the white out mark to set timing. The distributor rotor didn't line up with the notch on the body but I have read that as long as it's pointing at the cylinder 1 terminal on cap it's ok. I have tried it with the O2 sensor unplugged and it made no difference. The blue temp sensor isn't a genuine vw part, it's a meyle one from vw heritage. Is there anywhere online you can buy genuine vw parts, It's awkward getting to my nearest vw parts dealer when my car is playing up.

I recently had the pleasure of the crank pulley bolt snapping when driving which ruined the pulley key and slot in crank. An engineer friend came around and put two 3mm dowels through the pulley into the crank for me which sorted that problem out fairly quickly. Another friend (who's into his old golfs) came to help me with the timing, and check the compression to try rule out any bent valves. We got readings of about 150psi in each cylinder, and engine seemed to turn over fine with a breaker bar on the pulley bolt. I was hoping that had fixed the problem, but no. It's running rough from cold which doesnt clear up when the car has warmed up, it's missfiring and has a real rough idle, sounding like a tractor. We have checked and reset the timing a few times to make sure it's correct (bts out, rev to 2500) At idle revs stays at about 900rpm, needle doesnt bounce and boost gauge reads 13HG at idle, dont think theres a vac leak, sprayed carb cleaner and no change in engine note. It's a new vac hose to ecu and it's 1m long, carbon canister has been removed and hose ends blocked. The fuel filter is new The ISV vibrates slightly when the ignition is on, but I can feel a click every few seconds, is that normal? I gave it a good clean with carb cleaner a few months back. The spark plugs from cylinder 1 and 2 are black, 3 and 4 brown It hessitates to accelerate at lower revs but seems to pull after about 3000rpm but has a definite missfire When cold, removing the blue temp sensor causes the revs to drop to 600, if you remove it when its warm there is no noticeable difference in revs. The BTS is only a few months old. If you press the WOT switch it seems to make the idle a bit smoother and revs increase a bit Can anyone try help me get to the bottom of what is causing the bad running. I have done a lot of forum searching and not found a good answer yet, most of the posts seem to have the problem occur when the engine was up to temp, mine is happening as soon as it's started. Are there any tests I can do, unplugging things or with a multimeter to try figure out whats gone bad. Sorry for the information overload but I just wanted to cover everything I have done so far.

I ordered a new one off ebay yesterday, was only £7.50, but thanks for the offer rod

I've never noticed a lack of reverse lights, but my last car had a problem with them as well so I guess I just kind of got used to it. I'll do some shopping on ebay for some tape and reverse switch. More things to add to the ever growing to-do list. Thanks for the help/advice

I think this is the right black box, it looks like a previous owner has snapped the front off it which is probably why I couldn't find anywhere to plug the connector into. [ATTACH=CONFIG]51026[/ATTACH] The belt I have from GSF is 10A0665C, on vagcat.com it shows 9,5X663MM so the GSF one should be a close enough fit. I just wasn't sure if it was ok using a toothed belt on a non-toothed pulley.

I have found an unplugged connector in the passenger side of the engine bay and am trying to find out where it should go. It has 2 wires black/blue and black/red and joins the wiring loom around the front of the engine near the starter motor. The car seems to run fine without it and I'm not sure how long it's been unplugged. [ATTACH=CONFIG]51025[/ATTACH] Also I ordered a belt for the power steering pump from GSF and they sent me a toothed one. The pulleys aren't toothed and I was wondering if this is the correct belt. I can't remember what was on there originally and it's in the middle of a road now because of the dreaded crank pulley bolt snapping.

Things have just gotten even worse, this has been a bad week. Just opened the bonnet to have a proper look in the light and noticed a loose belt, the crank pulley hanging off and the power steering pump belt missing. It didn't make any big noise when the engine cut out so hopefully I haven't done too much big damage. I've read around on the internet and it's happened to a few people so I guess I will have to do some more reading to figure out what to do next. Here's a pic of what I have to deal with. [ATTACH=CONFIG]50475[/ATTACH]

I'll check that the pump is locked in properly. I have an earlier G60 with just the one pump which I can usually hear prime when I turn the key but cant hear it now. The battery is real flat though from trying to get it started so will put some charge in it over the weekend and try it again. To make things worse it was parked outside the house on the road and someone has side-swiped/reversed into it denting the arch, just wish I knew who did it because I live in a cul-de-sac which isn't that busy.

I haven't been using the car much recently but when I have it's been fine... until today. Accelerating on a dual carriageway and had the same problem with it not wanting to rev above 3000rpm, then the engine totally cut out and I had to roll to a safe spot on the side of the road. I tried starting it a few times and it was turning over but not starting, no spluttering or anything. Then we had a nightmare getting it on the recovery truck without ripping the splitter off. The fuel tank was about 1/4 full so may suggest a fuel pump problem from reading around or may just be a coincidence. I'm going have to brave it and play around in the fuel tank to get the fuel pump out for a check, has anyone else got any more suggestions of things to check?

I've fitted the new oil temp sender and now I'm getting proper readings I hope. The old sensor was a GSF one that must have been the wrong one or faulty. Now the MFA displayed about 80C in under ten minutes and up to 116C when stuck in traffic. Thanks for the help

Thanks for the part number. I have to collect it tomorrow, hopefully it fixes the problem.

I have checked the wiring and cleaned up the connection and it doesn't look to bad condition, the oil pressure wire is starting to fray a bit in the connector though so will change that. I unscrewed the temp sender and put it in a cup of boiling water, turned on ignition and didn't get a temp reading at all, should this work for testing it? I phoned up my local vw dealer to get the part and was told there are different colour coded temp senders. Went to look at mine to get colour of top but it is a gsf one so different colour to vw. Has anyone got a part number or know what colour it should be for a 91 G60?