P3rks

That's a good question. Iirc, the fan stays on for a good few minutes, thing is I've always been driving it when the car over heats so I can't tell you when the fan cuts in. On idle from cold the fan turns on for 30 seconds then stops. Then a few mins later turns on for 30 secs then stops on goes on like this. Every time the car's over heated I've stopped the engine, so surely the fan will only stay on until the water in the radiator has cooled becuase no water is circulating and the switch is in the rad? That's my plan, what do I do with the original oil cooler pipes and what about fitting the sandwhich plate; won't the original spline be too long for the new plate?

Well, the fan only has two wires coming from it. I have tried both polarities with little difference. But like I say, I had the car idling from cold for about 30 mins, fan kicked in and kept the water temp just above 90c and oil about 110c. Surely if the fan was to blame it would have overheated on idle from cold after 30 mins? Sorry about the poor photo's but you can see the size of it here: ---------- Post added at 11:32 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:28 AM ---------- I'm going to be ordering an Mocal oil cooler in the next few days, this will obviously lower the oil temp and take the strain off the cooling system also. I just need to decide whether to remove the original oil cooler completely or run the Mocal in conjunction with the original. Can any one recommend me what's best to do with the Mocal oil cooler and original oil cooler? number of rows to have etc?

Yeah, that's what I was thinking. I hope so too! Yeah, I refilled the first time using G12 coolant, used 1.5ltr coolant the rest water, after that I stopped wasting coolant. I've checked the wiring and the fan 100% kicks in. It's only a single speed, slimline fan and it's performance is negotiable. I'm wondering whether the radiator reaches maximum efficiency and the hot air coming out of the FMIC then going over the radiator is causing it to over heat? Or if the Samco hoses are causing excess pressure etc? Thing is, if it was the radiator would it have lasted 100 miles on the motorway when I first got the car? Probably not? The fan shouldn't be in use when the car is moving due to the air flow, and it over heated whilst on the move. Also, the cooling system is under the most pressure on idle and it never over heats when the car is first started. Only when driving or after driving then sat on idle, which would suggest either excess pressure in the coolant from a compression leak; or excess heat from boost which cause the cooling to loose it's efficiency and the temperature just rises and rises until it boils. How hot should a G60 run oil and water temp wise?

Cheers fella.. I'll get the results back today for the head. Lets hope it's just the headgasket and nothing more serious. On another note what's the likely hood of the block cracking?

Yeah, It failed on the smell test so gasses were 100% in the coolant. Has to be a headgasket or cracked head.. Unless the block can crack? Baz has offered me his spare G60 lump if it all goes tits up for me which is really really good of him. :thumbleft: Yeah, it's a bad start, but the only way is up! Well looking at mine; it has no gasket on the expansion tank, but it has one on the cap.. On the underside of the cap there is a black pressure release unit, there should be a o-ring around that. Whether mines different than yours I dunno?

Yeah, I have one on order. The car's been stripped of the head now, well almost there. I took it for a sniff test this morning and it failed, so head gasket at the best. The head is going in for a pressure test tomorrow. Fingers crossed. I also think your right about cooling not being the issue, i think it's more pressure. Afterall, if it was cooling down to the radiator, it wouldn't have lasted 100 miles. Yeah, the thermostat is fitted correctly. Bottom pipe is cool when the car first warms up then it gets hot as the thermostat opens. No issues there. The fan and radiator are brand spankers. I've even swapped the polarity to makesure the fan was spinning in the right direction. On that note, I measured the radiator to be 35x425x325 (metal parts only, not including the plastic ends). Does that seem to be about right for a Corrado G60 radiator?

Yeah, it's a brand new cap, I was unaware of an o-ring in the cap, but I'll double check for what it's worth. Do you not think that the standard G60 Radiator being behind the massive Rallye intercooler could be causing temp issues? I.e. the radiator can't be be efficient enough? Well I have a expansion tank on order, comes Tuesday. But, the new cap did last longer than the old one. The rad and rad switch are brand spankers, the fan kicks in as it should, it's performance is negotiable though; being a slim line. I'm still concerned that the radiator isn't being efficient enough, but I've done a search and people have used the Rallye intercooler/Corrado G60 radiator combo before with no ill effect (apart from a slightly higher temp). I think my issue is pressure related. What you think? ---------- Post added at 10:50 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:30 AM ---------- Right, Had a long though and I'm going to have to remove the head today otherwise the car may be sat for a while due to other commitments. Is there anything else i should check today before I remove it?

Wow, thanks for that. But surely with a cracked head you would get cross contamination, oil burning, water burning etc?

Thanks for your responses guys.. Well it's had a new waterpump, thermostat, samco hoses, radiator switch, slimline radiator and fan all very recently. Took the car out again and it's 100% overheating. No gunk in the oil and vise versa. Car runs sweet. Apart from the coolant issue. On the drive the water went to 110, oil to 140! Then the oil light started buzzing, turning the car off and on again removes this. I'm guessing the heat is thinning the oil? Also the expansion tank was hissing and water/steam was coming out of the overflow.... Then I went to TPS and bought a new blue expansion cap, thermostat, G12 and the two oil pressure switches for good measure. I drained the coolant.. Oh wait, no coolant, just water. Removed the Thermostat... Oh wait, there wasn't one. Why would you replace more or less the entire cooling system and then remove the thermostat? So yeah, you can imagine what I'm thinking by now. Oh well, I don't think I've been done over here, just one of those things. Anyway, I poured water down every single route of the coolant system to see if it flows, there were no blockages. I fitted the thermostat and new o-ring, filled the coolant system and fitted the new expansion cap. I let the water heat up and removed any air locks. Let the car idle and reach full temp, then the matrix flanged shattered with the pressure, must have been the weakest link. I bypassed the heater matrix for the time being and let it get to temp and idle again. All was fine for a good 20 mins. took it out for a slow drive around my area, after about another 20 mins the temp rose to about 100 and the temp light started flashing again. Far too much pressure in the system again and it's blown the expansion tank. FML. I'm so ****ed off. The water seems to still be returning so I think the waterpump is fine. It appears to be a new item. The car is fitted with a Rallye FMIC bang in front of the radiator. The radiator is new and looks pretty small tbh, the fan is slimline and isn't the best performance wise. Could this be contributing to the problem? Although I do think that it's more pressure related than temp. I think my next step is to get the car smell tested for a headgasket. Possibly the gases are escaping into the coolant system causing the pressure. Weird thing is that the car seems ok on idle. And gets worse when driving. So either the heat from the FMIC killing the radiator or gasses into the coolant. Any help or advise would be appreciated. I'm literally so upset. My last car broke down loads, 4 hard months of graft and 3 weeks after fitting a new engine so it was 100%, some pikey stole the car. I've bought this car because it was mechanically great, So I thought. I just want to scrap it and give up on cars now.

Right, Just had a quick look, topped the water up and started the car. The pipes started to heat consistently, both top and bottom radiator pipes started getting hot straight away. The coolant system pressurised very quickly and the pressure built and built. You could see the water rise. The fan kicked in as it should. But, the dash only indicated temps of around 80. There is no visible air lock. All pipes got hot suggesting the water pump is ok. The fact that both the bottom and top hoses got hot suggests the thermostat is working, or at the worse stuck open which wouldn't let the car over-heat. The car was left idling for ages and the water never really overheated per say. Things weren't just right. I tried idling with the header tank cap off and the water started to rise and boil over. When the car was switched off and the header tank cap replaced I could hear a distinctive hissing sound from the expansion tank. I'm suspecting the headgasket has failed leading to gases in the coolant causing the over-pressurising of the system. I hope I am wrong. What's everyone's thoughts on this? I'm not a happy bunny at all. The car didn't even make 100 miles until it broke down.

Thanks Baz, Well, RAC came out and had a quick look in the pitch dark, filled up the coolant again and it started fine, no flashing lights, no nasty noises or suspicion of head gasket or worse. The think it's either the thermostat, waterpump or more than likely a loose/split hose. All We could tell was the coolant was everywhere around the expansion tank. When we filled the car with water and drove it onto the flat bed; removing the car there was a puddle of water under the expansion tank side of the car. Probably a leak (I hope) or that could be remnants of the coolant pouring out from boiling over previously. Who knows? Either way, when removing the car from the flat bed the coolant light was flashing again.

Hello Everyone! I'm currently looking out to buy my first Corrado, I've always been a fan and I've always wanted one. Been into VW's all my life and owned, MK2's, Scirocco's and Polo's ever since I can drive. I had my MK2 ABF stolen not too long back and I'm on the look out for a nice VR6 to replace her. It seems a good time to be buying Corrado's as they are pretty cheap at the moment. Does anyone know of any nice ones for sale? Can anyone tell me the differences between late and early VR6's? I'm ideally after a late car, but I keep spotting K-Plates which look nice. Thanks!