jonnykillpop

Cheers, got new sensor from Euro Carparts, £52.00 but is a genuine VW one, surprisingly, it's stamped VW, part. no. and exactly same as old one. Running fine now, no misfire or hesitation, I would'nt say 100% power maybe 90-95 but I suspect will take few days for ECU to reprogramme with working CPS, or will it need to go back to garage to have error code reset. I'll probs get some new Bremi's too, but had to shave all the lugs off lead channels to enable fatter Magnecors to fit so now standard ones won't fit properly. P.S. Got new set of Continental Sport Contacts on front same day, 205/40/17 and would deffo recommend if anyones in market, had Yoko's and Toyo's before that and better all round and last bot lomnger with bit of luck, Toyo's managed less than 3500 miles to racing slicks but amazingly were still gripping well even in wet totally bald.

Can't really see from that pic. as can only see top, but have you only got one pipe leading to the oil catch can and ending there, does'nt it build up pressure, or you got it vented via a filter, pop off valve of something and not connected to the intake system. Mines same place as yours but in a loop, goes from crank case breather outlet to catch can, catches oil, liquids etc. and then pipe on other side of catch can (on top so liquids left behind) goes back to intake system, replacing PCV basically in a big loop. Thinking yours might be better system if works, if does'nt effect various sensors etc.

Hello, been getting slight misfire for while now, and changed various leads, had a set of Magnecors KV85'S on it, and a set of BBT's, and some old VW ones, never felt 100%. Slight misfire turned into large one yesterday, one of Magnecors gave up altogether, changed No.3 for old VW one and no obvious misfire but not pulling 100%. Took down garage and showing Error Code 00515 Hall Sender mechanic thought Hall Sender part of Coilpack, but just going from memory. Had new VW Coilpack recently and have a spare and same with both. Looking on net looks like Hall Snder on VR6 Coilpack is actually the Cam Sensor, one next to Coilpack but also found this update.. replaced plugs with bosch platinum x2 and put the new wires back in, presto, no more intermitent check engine light, gave her a good run... no problems.. so note to self never use deutche spark plugs and change switch back to the newer wires sooner next time... obd-1 will throw a code 00515, if a spark plug or wire is bad, or on it's way out.. Should I get Cam sensor first or just bite bullet and buy new set of Bremi leads from VW spares which hear or basically VW originals. Just worried some other fault is eating leads but don't see how. Suspect one mechanic has pulled the Magnecors off by leads rather than using tool, which would explain lead probs. Anone had similar code or probs.

I bought both sensors for a VR6 from Eurocarparts maybe 3 months ago, had them in stock on day.

Gave up on them and bought some Magnecors but I'll keep them might try Bosch's at some point

Could do with a coilpack, think mines playing, are you selling two? As will have to post and there pretty heavy want to sell just one if it's good?

Hello, I need a drivers side engine mount top plate for a VR6, does'nt matter condition of mount, only top plate needed, got new mont with wrong top plate. Do you have one? Where are you. If

Are the leads still for sale I'll have them if they are VW (Bremi/Beru) and OK

I've got those 4 electrode NGK ones and there good but plug leads are murder, I've got at the moment Bosch ones, well made but just don't fit properly and come loose, Cambiare ones, all round useless, MegaLeads which are good but had wrong ends fitted and even when put old ends on from the old VW ones still not fitting well, as well as some Lucas ones had lying around which don't fit properly. I'm now after a set of proper original ones which are labelled VW then Bremi on mine (I'm told Bremi and Beru are same company) but can't find any advertised and I'm now bit dubious of people who say can get correct VW ones after all hassle so far. Tell me if you've find any good leads that fit properly, ideally Bremi's as originally fitted. Never known a engine that's so hard to fit leads and keep fitted. Yes I've got the proper tool as well as another to remove plugs etc.

I got a set of Mega Leads to fir VR6, trouble is the plug ends are to fit those old style plugs where you can unscrew the connecting tips and just use the thinner threaded bit, Bosch used to be like that hav'nt seen for a while. Mines got the correct NGK 4 electrode plugs which don't unscrew. Seems shame to send them back as the place does'nt have any more and leads look good apart from that, 10 mm ones. Can you get this type of plug for the VR6? Tried few sets of leads and they've all been woeful so far, keep coming loose or giving slight misfire so fancied giving these a try, heard good things bout them.

Sorry to blag your post but on the subject of mounts don't suppose anyones got a top plate for a drivers side mount for a VR6 have they, I got a new genuine VW VR6 MOUNT which was fine apart from fact top plate is flat not angled like the original, trouble is that was bit that was broken, some idiot snapped the bolt in it. ad to drill out bolt and rethread old one, but not ideal, and bolted that to new mount. The old mount was fine to be honest and VW one, had new engine just before I got it and probably changed then so I'd happily do a swap for this mount if anyone needs one. (Reckon the flat top plate must be off a vr6 Golf or something)

Hopefuly be fine, you'll feel it if you've knackered it. If you have knackered your drivers side mount, can I blag the top plate which is probably OK, I got a brand new VW one BUT THE ---------- Post added at 1:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 1:22 PM ---------- Hopefuly be fine, you'll feel it if you've knackered it. If you have knackered your drivers side mount, can I blag the top plate which is probably OK, I got a brand new VW one but the top plate's wrong angle, probs. for a VR6 Golf or something, so had to drill out and re thread old top plate, which is'nt ideal, that was the bit that's knackered. ---------- Post added at 1:30 PM ---------- Previous post was at 1:27 PM ---------- Hopefuly be fine, you'll feel it if you've knackered it. If you have knackered your drivers side mount, can I blag the top plate which is probably OK, I got a brand new VW one but the top plate's wrong angle, probs. for a VR6 Golf or something, so had to drill out and re thread old top plate, which is'nt ideal, that was the bit that's knackered.

Mines exactly the same but only rubs on bumps with two fat boys in the back, see my post for "rear axle out of alignment". Mines lowered and very stiff on Koni's and rubs not on top of arch but at front half way up, it's because the rear axle/beam is slightly out of alignment, just coupe mm's but that's enough when lowered on 17's. If yours is only rubbing on one side suspect it's the same prob. and just needs adjusting but watch don't snap the bolts that's what I'm worried about.

The whole car could do with professionally set up as I've been experimenting with camber angles on front to see what I like before getting properly set up, plus put new uprated top mounts and r32 bushes on it. Camber angles make huge difference by way, with a lot of camber on front turn in is best of any car I\ve ever driven but at that extreme scrubs tyres in straight line so got to find a compromise. Car is rock hard at front, literally can't move it and has strut braces front and back but feels little bit to soft on back for me, can move it bout half an inch maybe, so was thinking bout getting stiffer springs/shocks on back, but maybe that's just as I'm used to rwd and it's a good set up for fwd, it's got koni shocks and springs all round, had yokohamas and toyo's on it, yoko's are best. What cambers are people running, anyone found any benefit in getting kit to put bit camber on back (do mean a bit not these loonaflids that pose around wi the back looking like it's about to collapse) P.S. Normally I would heat those bolts and they'd be straight off but could\nt get flame on the head looking at it, the threaded bit where need heat is well into chassis andd shielded. As someone said after snapped the head of front bolt once got rubber burned through and threaded part heated red hot turned with pair of mole grips.

Nope never smacked it and no signs any previous owner has, got two sets of wheels and both dead straight. What I'm talking about here is the position of the rear axle/beam call it what you will, the actual beam is'nt adjustable but there's slight adjustment as to where it can be fitted if you know what I mean, the 3 bolts that attach it to the floor/chassis, or to be exact the bracket can be set few mm's back forth left right, your meant to also set the angle I think for new bushes but not sure how, the setting their would effect positioning of rear wheels left right, back forth, mm's admitedly but still should be bang on. I'd say it's most likely been off when the Koni's and springs were fitted, looks pretty recent, looks like new bushes recently and not been set well. ---------- Post added at 5:35 PM ---------- Previous post was at 4:45 PM ---------- Cheers, I'll check for those holes to get a bit of penetrating oil in, they don't look rusted at all, look like new bolts but their on damn tight and though I could shift then with an extension bit paranoid after snapping the front suspension arm bolt putting in R32 bushes which is bigger, and had to have cut out with an oxy torch which my mechanic did'nt thank me for. Snapping these would be even worse, could,nt cut them out. P.S. Wheels are all same ET and good quality, RS4's are proper Audi ones not copies.

Hello, the rear subframe on mine is 2mm too far to righ, drivers side, and more annoyingly too far forward by mm or two so that if got tweo fatboys in the back, which recently did on a trip to Whitby, it'll scrape the arch, just, on the front of rear arch, not on the top, on bumps.The other side never scrapes, that mm or two makes all the difference. It's got 17 inch wheelsd, RS4's, WITH 17, 205, 40'S and is lowered and stiffened on Koni's, all done before I got it. I've loosened the 3 drivers side bolts and you can see the adjustment is out. I've got an old Golf GTI Manual and says set those bolt holes to the centre and adjust the other side, and they were'nt. The other feels really stuck fast though and worried bout snapping them, can you get to these bolt heads to heat or at least oil up from inside car, maybe if take rear panelling off. What's the correct adjustment procedure for rear subframe, looks like had new bushes recently.

Hello, I need a drivers side engine mount top plate. I got a new vw engine mount but the top plate is flat not angled like the Corrado VR6 one, the top plate just unbolts and should'nt be much to post on it's own, the rest s the heavy bit. Chances are the rest of mount is'nt in sellable condition unless new and their not very expensive new anyway.

I took the drivers side light out, disconnected the rear drivers side mount (I took out the two 13 mm bolts that connect the mount at bottom rather than top one as can get too easier from bottom without having to take off strut brace, intake system etc. but mine ad new mount few months back so they were'nt going to snap, though if did you could put nuts and bolts in unllike top mount where you basically shafted if it snaps), loosened the passenger side front mount with the allen bolt from bottom which should move fine and not snap (this probs. is'nt essental but saves over stretching that mount). Untension the belt tensioner and take belt off that and alternator (longish bolt in the threaded hole, 13mm standard threead from memory and tighten down to untension), undo 2 alternator bolts, jack up, maybe couple of inches at most will do it and you've room to lift out from top, was easy enough bout an hour maybe. Mines a VR6 yeah with big cone filter, if you've got standard filter may have to remove that too, but reckon you'd have room, mines got cold air feed pipes to front of filter had to take them off only. Even if take bumper and front off you'd still have to jack up to have enough room to get alternator bolts out side I reckon.

Hello, I bought a new drivers side engine mount as managed to get a genuine VW one, and needed as bolt was snapped in top plate, but when came the top plate is flat whereas it's angled on the one took off. Part numbers same maybe it's for a VR6 Golf. As wanted to use car drilled out and retapped and used old top plate, on new mount but as temporary measure. Has anyone got a top plate off a knackered mount they don't need, so can do job properly, can't imagine the top plates wearing out. The mount came with new bolt and everything so only need a decent VR6 threaded plate. I'm in South Shields, Tyne and Wear, Cheers. P.S. Also looking for HT leads, are these 10mm performance ones worth it. The only ones that seem to fit well are the old VW ones, got Bremi on them under W stamp so presume Bremi made for VW, can you still get them? Heard BERU's good, where can you get them?

Cheers, got look at another one and as you say other pin not used. Was thinking bout font panel off but in end not much too much hassle to jack engine up bit with mounts disconnected, helps mines got aftermarket cone filter, so more room with light out just needed couple of inches

Hello, did check threads but could'nt find answer on this. My alternator appears to have given up the ghost, looks like the original VW one. Getting a new one on weekend but notice mine only has 1 wire going to the 2 pin plug, the blue one. It worked fine before the alternator gave up, it still runs fine at mo but only running off battery and alt. not charging. What's the other pin for, is it a prob. mine only has one? Which pin should the blue wire go to? The blue wire is the exciter wire I think so that's the important one. Car had new engine, suspension, and rebuild and respray etc. recently before I got it, so maybe someone's Heath Robinsoned the electrics a bit, but everything works perfect, electrically and otherwise, even the sunroof, heater, rear spoiler etc. Also are the proper VW multi plugs available anywhere as the plug is cracked and lost it's spring clip bit. P.S. What's the easiest way to change alternator, looks like you've got to jack engine up after loosening drivers side mount, maybe all mounts, or would taking inlet manifold off give you access. Heard someone say it's easier to take the whole front panel off, and get it from front. Thanks,

If your ratchet adjuster is kaput or you just want a fixed steering column that'll not move at all but can still adjust by nut and bolt just replace the spring at the bottom with a bolt, you'll need a bolt threaded all the way. There's an ingenious little thread on here with pictures that'll make it obvious, simple job, take you 30 minutes top. Put a nut on both sides top and bttom so it'll fix movement up and down.

Hello, Yes to both, new pads all round and bleed master cylinder last. nchbietch;939614]Morning, Did you renew the pads at the same time? Did you bleed the master cylinder last? Paul

Had front calipers rebuilt and new mk4 golf calipers on rear. Bleed the whole system, incuding the bleed nipple on master cylinder, which did'nt even know was theyre till someone told me, and is ok, but still feels touch spongy, which is probably as steered clear of bleeding abs pump as did'nt know if any special process to use here, used to working on old Fords never worked with abs. Everything on abs, and indeed whole car works, car's been extensivley rebuilt/restored before I bought it, abs unit looks pretty new so don't want to upset anything, only needed new calipers as front sticky due to car not used for long time, and stripped a bleed nipple on rear. Any instructions/tips for bleeding abs. Got an Eazibleed kit, normally does job fine. Checked threads nothing specifically for abs, maybe just bleed in normal way?

Had new CV joints on my VR6 when bought it, though mechanic said were ok, and cured knock on full lock, and when pulling away with any lock, they were knackered when got out, pulling off with any power on lock on does it i'm told. I\ve also got a 3.1 Capri and a crack on lock is dead common on them it's the top mounts turning and the springs not going all way with them and snapping back, moving in the cups, should'nt really happen on corrado's but maybe could if top mounts or roller bearings bust