Spykee

raise it one notch and see how it goes is all i can suggest, other than that you might need some wheel spacers...... my 15" BBS wheels are close enough to the spring's base plate so im sure that yours are rubbing a treat! it might look a little high to begin with, the back of mine did even on the lowest circlip setting but its been about 6 weeks since fitting now and the car has settled really nicely! my 90mm spoiler now catches a helluva lot though if im not careful.

rob i have no idea of the difference between the newer and older VR's but here is my drop on uprated shocks and 40mm lowering springs. i will have to do measurements in a few weeks as im on my hols at the moment! so the car is 3,500 miles away! front before: front after: whole car:

yeah it definately sounds like the switch has gone to me.... ive had a few go and when they are on their way out you have to put more pressure on the barrel as you turn the key to make the car start. i ended up taking the steering wheel off to change the switch but it was a pretty easy job to be honest, just make sure your steering lock is off so that you have a bit of movement to get a long think screwdriver behind the barrel.

i have already found out what relay it is, no 80 in position no 12 for my G60..... as i said above though i dont know how to locate the cables at the back of it? im after the red/yellow from the fuel pump as well as the red/white from the lambda wiring. :? if i can check these with the lambda and the fuel pump disconnected i can find the short in the wiring so that i can run a fresh cable and fix the fault. does anyone have any idea where behind the fuse box these cables are? its not that easy to see when your upside down in the footwell holding the fuse box in one hand, torch in mouth and searching for the correct cables with the other! :lol: cheers,

cheers for the info Henny :) i have managed to get to the bottom of the fault at last but i still havnt fixed it as im not sure what the best thing is to do...... basically the circuit that the fuel pump and lambda sensor is on is shorting out. i had a closer check of the fuse and there was a very small break in it. when i replaced it as i plugged the new fuse in that blew as well :( after some tests with my multi meter with the wiring at the fuel pump as well as the multi plug for the lambda up to the main loom i have managed to figure out that there is a short somewhere either between the fuse box and the lambda or the fusebox and the fuel pump. i know that the lambda section of the cable that goes into the exhaust is ok as there is no resitance through the multi meter from the lambda mulit plug down to the lambda but there is from the multi plug up to the main loom....... im now stuck with the best way to fix this, i know it means running new cable somehow but i cant find where the bloody cables go into the back of the fusebox and relay board to tap into it, even after looking at a wiring diagram..... its a maze of cables behind the fusebox which is in a right mess!! i know that im looking for a red/white and a red/yellow cable but where on the back of the fuse board i dont know as well as not knowing if these go into the same multi plug :( also do the original cables run underneath the car somewhere or do they run internally? im wondering if the bloke who did my exhaust yesterday has melted some wire insulation somewhere.......... any more help is much appreciated :) cheers,

right i finally think im losing the plot with my car now! after forking out about £1k in the last 3 months and making me think its finally going really well the damn thing packs in on me again! yesterday i took the car to get a new exhaust system built up for it at a local custom exhaust place and when we went to start it the damn thing wouldnt start! :mad: in the end i had to get the AA to bring me home on a low loader :( im thinking that its either the fuel pump or the fuel pump relay because i can normally hear the fuel pump whirring for a few seconds if i just turn the key to stg2 of the ignition but i cant hear it at all now. the question is...... where is the relay on the fuse pannel for the fuel pump and what number is it? the bloke from the AA had a look at his wiring diagrams but they didnt correspond to my car, typical of my corrado :roll: i really do hope its the relay and not the pump as i just had a quote and a new pump is £220!!! :shock: all help much appreciated :) cheers,

can anyone shed some light on my earlier post to do with the PTFE spray and if the stuff i have posted a link to is ok or not please? :) cheers,

right after reading this now im confused? should the pipe from the ISV be fed back into the boost pipe or not? ive also seen some of this: http://www.wd40.co.uk/index.cfm?articleid=1748 (look at the bottom of the page) and was wondering if that will do for lubricating the charger rather than having to get it from G-Werks or Pitstop all the time? cheers,

have you checked the timing? mine was miles out and it caused exactly the same problems for me, it also made the accelleration feel really flat as if the car was gutless....... another possibility is knackered HT leads causing firing problems? does it start ok? the lambda would be a good bet to try though because if its not reading the exhaust gasses correctly it could be causing all sorts..........

1) use a set of spring compressors to take the pressure of the base plate. 2) turn the whole strut upside down and pushed the base plate down away from the circlip. 3) use a set of circlip pliers to release the clip from the groove that it is sat in and slide it up the shaft of the strut into the one closest to the bush on the base end. 4) then slide the base plate up to seat it back onto the circlip and release the spring compressors so that the spring is back in place and you all done! give that a go and see how you get on. it took me about an hour per side including taking the plastics out of the boot above the stuts, jacking and removing the lot, cutting down my bump stops and putting it all back together after doing the circlips.

well i dropped mine 2 circlip grooves, which was the lowest it would go. the sill still sits at a slight angle to the rear of the car when compared to the road but its not that noticable now.

Yay! :multi: :multi: :multi:

Bob, im not sure what your asking? are you asking if the ride is lower at the back than the front or level with the road? the rear is still a little higher than the front but i think this is relatively normal with a fwd car and i am happy with the ride height as it is. any lower and the car wouldnt get off my drive! does that help with your question?

i have to say that firstly i am extremely pleased with the service Darren has provided as well as his help since getting them in terms of answering any questions that i have had. :D :D i ordered the kit on wednesday and they arrived by lunch time on thursday, couldnt get any better if you ask me! :D the only reason i posted this thread up last night was to see if i could get other people's opinions whether it looked too high or not. anyway, i have had the back end apart today to make adjustments and ended up removing the rear struts again completely as it was easier. i have used my spring compressors and moved the circlip to the lowest rung on the damper and i think its done the job nicely! it now looks spot on front and back. take a look to see what you think now 8) cheers,

ok, so let me get this straight..... the circlips can be moved but they look like they are fixed because the manufacturer sprays over them? crasher, this jig of yours.... are you saying that you can use this to move the circlip without dismantling the shock so it could be done either on the car or in one piece off it? cheers,

can the circlips be adjusted? how do you get them off? they looked fixed to me as if they are part of the damper....... there were some other grooves in the dampers though so what you are saying makes sense. cheers,

will have to get back to you on these tomorrow if i need to get my measuring tape out :lol: :lol: cheers,

nope, i got them from Darren @ G-Werks

they are a Wietec kit, which are springs and dampers.....

cheers for the nice comments guys! :D i was wondering whether they will be lower when they settle as well but i doublt they would settle enough looking at it :? i used the original bump stops and was wondering about this but my mate who installed them rekons there is about an inch or two of travel above these in the rear arches...... Bally, do you mean you actully cut the rear springs down so they were shorter? cheers,

ive had my new uprated shock and lowering spring setup fitted to my car today and am really pleased with the front end but im not sure about the back........ to me it doesnt really look any lower than standard and its got a kind of dragster stance with the back end higher than the front. i know the back is normally higher than the front but i dont know whether its supposed to be this high.... its lowered by 40mm btw also check out how close to the road my chin spoiler is coming off my driveway!! :shock: take a look and see what you think, opinions much appreciated :)

:rofl: im hoping your taking the micky cos thats the worst bit of spelling i have ever seen! 'confidence' :wink:

print screen, paste into paint and save as a JPEG? thats how i did mine, then uploaded it to my photobucket account.

Greeny, i can only see a putfile message there ^^

this is what i want mine to look like. not a lot different to stock but its nice and OEM+ not sure if i prefere these BBS's or the Keskin KT4-4's though....... those lights in the options called E-Codes, can you actually get them?