Spykee

Riley, the trouble is i have to drive this thing to work and back every day, which is a 30 mile round trip so as you can imagine im getting pretty pi**ed off with it now and just want it sorted...... i spoke to my dad, who has rebuilt a few cars in his time and he rekons its that my mate hasnt set up the timing properly. the reason hes saying this is because the exhaust from 3000 rpm and less is giving off a continuous 'pop pop.....pop......pop pop pop......pop pop' in whatever gear the car is in which is a key symptom of a mis fire... i dunno though, all i can say is ive had a guts full now! :(

i spoke to my mate and he has said that he has checked the lambda as well and thats all ok........ still miffed :?

right.... heres an update! i have replaced the blue temp sensor and have now changed teh vac hose to the ECU but im now getting a slightly erratic idle where it revs up to 2k rpm after barely spluttering on tunrover once started and then drops back down to normal idle speed. if i then rev the car or am driving it when i dip the clutch and come to a standstil the engine stutters and the revs drop down to barely 500rpm and then pick back up to normal idle speed again! i have also adjusted the CO potentiometer and thats made the car a bit smoother but its still holding back on acceleration. i have had it on the gas analyser as well and it has now flown through the emissions test at 0.3

right then, i have just had another look at the vac pipe off the ECU to hte TB and its pretty much broken completely where it goes onto the nipple on the back of the TB...... now changing the pipe is easy but how the hell do you get the ECU out or the plug off the ECU to get to the vac pipe where it goes onto the ECU? mine is here by the way as its a leftie :wink:

Neil, i havnt checked the wiring on the lambda probe in the engine bay but all the fuel pipes are fine cos i have already looked at them and the pressure seems ok as there is a nice gush of fuel coming out of the pipe into the back of the TB area when i turn the key to the 2nd stage of the ignition. i have had a really good look underneath as well with it up on the hydraulic ramp in my mates garage..... any other suggestions?

right thats all done! its running a lot better now with it set at 500 ohms on the CO pot but its still smelling tooty fruity in terms of exhaust fumes as well as it still feeling a bit lathargic but this is in every gear smoothly rather than just flat in 1st and second and then better in the others...... now i havnt had the car running normally for ages and have forgotten what it actually feels like acceleration wise so when im saying it feels lathargic thats comparing it to my Clio 172 Cup..... is this a fair comparison or not? i have no idea!

right im trying to check the CO pot readings..... do i do it with the engine running and it plugged in to the 3 pin plug that goes off somewhere else or can i disconnect it and do it that way? i have tried both and get totally different readings from both! i know im turning the screw so it reaches 500 ohms but has anyone got any ideas how to hold the multimeter pins in place as well as turn the scrw?! cheers,

Pop Down and we will hook it up for you for FREE. really? :shock: erm.... i might just do that even though you are about 2 hours away from me! there is a few things i was thinking of getting from you anyway such as an rsr outlet to solve my boost leak on my charger :lol: how busy are you this week? im off for half term you see cos im a teacher...

cheers 2 door, thats loads cheaper! Darren, have you got any other ideas what it could be thats cheaper than getting the ECU readings checked out? i just replaced the blue temp sensor and thats made no difference cheers,

i have looked at the Vac hose on the back of the TB and its not in teh best of conditions so im gonna change that tomorrow by the CO Pot do you mean CO potentometer? or something like that? :lol: it idles fine but it does smell pretty rich though to be honest

the bloke at the parts desk at VW Kettering said that its a 3.5mm x 1M lenght as well and hes pretty up on his G-laders as he has a Polo G40........ called it exactly what you did as well, diesel run off pipe! im going to replace that and i have also spotted a vac pipe that is totally broken off the front left hand side of the Inlet Manifold as well so im sure that cant be helping! VW want £15 a meter for that cotton braided hose though! what a rip off!

oh i forgot to say in the original post that my mate has taken it to a friends garage who has electronic diagnostic systems and this guy is sayng that i need to get a Break Out Test done on the car or something? what's one of these and do i need to go down that road yet cos it's gonna be time consuming apparently so it sounds expensive?!

ok i will change that, im sure it will only be a few quid

cheers guys i will give those things a go i have also been told that it could be something to do with the blue temp sensor? so for the sakes of a tenner im gonna change that as well. where abouts on the TB is the vac hose to the ECU cos there are quite a few hoses tbh? :lol: cheers,

Damn they look lovely!

im getting a really bad problems with the G60 at the moment to the point where im wanting to get rid of it cos im fed up! basically i have been having issues with the acceleration for a good few months where it seems like its not going as fast as it should and then givein one hell of a kick at 5k rpm...... now i knew this was wrong as this is where the it normally starts to lose its guts in the go faster department. because of this i have recently had a new cambelt and tensioner, dizzy cap and rotor along with the timing set up by my mate who is a mechanic. the current stage that im at is that when putting my foot down in 2nd gear its flat as a pancake and then in 3rd and 4th gear it now gives a massive kick as if its coming on boost at about 3,000rpm as if its got a turbo!?! my mate has done an emissions test on it and is saying that they are through the roof! he said that one of the emissions readings (might be CO) is supposed to be at about 2.5 percent and my car is currently running at 10 percent, which is way over what is expected and is guzzling fuel like im getting it for free! im basically after some advice now on where to look for the potential problem as my mate isnt too familiar with Corrado's and its the only G60 he has ever worked on. i have now been without the car for almost 3 weeks back and forth due to it being in the garage with him looking at it when he gets a chance so ive had enough of it and would really, really appreciate it if someone could give me some help and shed some light on the situation? thanks in advance,

cheers for the pics guys.... much appreciated :) looks like you lot have VR's tho so i take it i would have to do a 5 stud hub conversion to fit these? also are they 17's or 18's? i might look into the replicas that you can get and see if they do them im 4 stud

Hiya! im trying to find some pictures of a C with some of the nice 9 spoke Audi TT alloys on. i have seen them on the golf and also the TT obviously and think that they look really nice on both and was wondering what they would look like on my red G60? i know that you can also buy replicas of them in a number of places and am trying to decide on a refurb or new rims at the moment and i dont know what to do! if you have any pics of the 9 spokes on a C then post them up if you can as it would be much appreciated :) cheers,

yeh checked all that so im totally baffled about why it wont start now :? fires ok, correct order, dizzy is ok, fuel is ok etc... gonna have to have a few more scratches of the head to think what it could be as its gotta be something else now :roll:

Neil, well thats the thing, i did move the dizzy to match the position of the rotor arm after having a mess about with it and returning it back to its original position, which is why i dont understand why the car still wont start :? im getting my mate who is a mechanic to look at it tomorrow though so he should be able to sort it for me :) cheers for the advice :)

cheers for the advice..... im still getting problems though as the crank and the cam pulleys line up properly but then the rotor isnt at 12 o'clock so im still getting the same problem with the car not starting and to add to that now the 3rd stage of the ingnition barrel has packed in so the starter motor doesnt even bloody turn :(:( just ordered an S2000 engine starter button to sort this though as i know that the ignition barrels are known to go on the C so i thought its easier to have a starter than keep forking out for the new barrel each time! plus ive already had 2 barrels as it is!!!

ok well i have done the first bit so that the two marks on the cam pulley are aligned so that it is at TDC but when i move the dizzy to the 12 o'clock position should the rotor arm also be positioned at the 12 o'clock position as well? if it isnt how do i move the rotor so that it is without knocking everything else out of allignment? cheers,

right i have just posted on the other link to do with this but it looks like there is more of a discussion going on here so here goes! i followed the instruction to the letter and made sure i knew the exact position of the dizzy before moving it but then when i lined the notch up with the rotor and put the dizzy cap back on the bloody thing wont start!!! so i put it back to the original position that it was in before i fiddled about with it and it still wont start! :( this is a pic of the dizzy (without the rotor arm) set in the original position before i moved it at all..... now is this correct or should both the notch and the rotor be facing the 12 o'clock position like in the pictures above rather than the 1 o'clock position that mine is in?

ooooh i like that! where from an how much as i have a leftie as well so even the A Pillar pod is irght for me!

i have found Mintex C-Tech 1144's good all rounders as road and track pads......