sam2.0

I've had this issue for a few months, where upon starting the car will turn over and the revs will fire up but then it just dies on its arse. After 2 or 3 attempts it'll fire and stay running. I figured this may have been due to the ignition switch, which I've sorted. No joy. My next idea was immobiliser, but I have no idea what to check with this. After some advise or either other things to check, or how to check the immobiliser.

When I bought the Corrado, I was told it had something (maybe lowering springs?), but basically the ride is very harsh over speedbumps and pot holes etc. But it seems to handle pretty well. I'm after reducing the harshness, but I suppose I need to identify what is on the car before I can get advise of what to replace it with. So, is there any easy ways to gauge whats on it? I'll be back using the car as my main car from Friday, so can provide photos more information to move forward.

330ci is the e46. I'm getting a 318is. I could sped 12k on a new car, but I just love 80/90s cars!

Thanks Si. I've got someone who's selling a use ISV, I'll test that first before spending dealership money! Now it's sorted, it'll be up for sale, as I'm moving back to an E30, the corrado has been great fun, but I miss the E30s so much, this will be number 4.

I'm after a working ISV for a 16v 9a, or an ISV that will be the same off a different engine. Thanks

Update! It was at the garage today for them to time it all. They said it was 1 tooth out, which is what I had it on before my last attempt. But they used an advance timing light to get that right. The high idle isn't to do with the timing, but probably the ISV.

" or if you want to add an article, then currently only members of THE Corrado Forum Wiki Usergroup can create and edit articles. Wanna join? Drop me a PM via the forum. " Both links dead. Since the upgrade, a lot of things don't work!

I've just followed the ignition switch replacement guide, and I've got some pics and info that would be helpful. I'll leave my extra bits here, but it'd be good if it could make its way into the Wiki, which is the first hit for "ignition switch replacement". A view from behind the switch, this is the screw to undo. Its a cross head, and the width of the cross is 2.8mm. [ATTACH=CONFIG]73589[/ATTACH] Old is on the bottom, new on the top. [ATTACH=CONFIG]73590[/ATTACH] Better image of the screw. [ATTACH=CONFIG]73591[/ATTACH]

Not so fast! Still idles high (only sometimes now) but doesn't pull well until 2500rpm. I've booked it into the garage to get timed up, I give up :( This is how its timed up currently, also bare in mind I've not put a timing light across it yet (garage will do this) The flywheel is bang on the line, but the cam pulley and cams are slightly off. If I move the cam to be correct, the slack in the belt between the cam and the intermediate pulley is far too much. I could then rotate the intermediate pulley, and put the slack between the intermediate pulley and crank, but still too loose. ETA: Confirming from a mate, crank to be 100% TDC and then allow the cam to be slightly off is the way to do it, thats what the dizzy is for. Explained him. So, thats what I've done.

Re-timed it tonight, idle is as it should be. Going to get a garage to time it 100% with a advanced timing light. Is that light at the end of the tunnel?!

I'm trying to avoid that, a local VW specialist was £70+ VAT an hour just to look at it. If I had the money, I'd have got it sorted by a garage to begin with! Doesn't help that some $^&* has nicked my timing light at work.

Whats the best way to test for earth? With the ICV, TPS and ECU? I've read before, that if you disconnect the ICV and the revs change, it means it works, as the ECU will go to a default setting. But, stuff I've read has been wrong before! Yea, I've said this before. Before I started the head gasket work the car was fine and pulled well, the only issue I had was water in the cylinder bore when cold (cracked HG) I've also done the timing my self, with the movement of the dizzy, the lowest I can get it to idle is 1500rpm, to advanced and it idles higher, too retarded and it'll stay at 1500rpm. I'm beginning to wonder if the belt if off a tooth, still.

I've just checked the resistance across the throttle body connector and all seems ok. I've also sprayed wd40 on the air pipes and nothing changes, so no air leaks. Still idling at 1500rpm and when you raise the revs and let them go, they go down slowly. I've also unplugged the ISV and it then idles correctly, but try and rev it and it bogs down. What's next to try? ETA: I've just checked the resistance over the ISV and it was about 900, but the car was slightly warm, it also moved (went down) as it was getting warmer, so that seems to be ok too.

Was any work done before it started happening? Take the sparks out 1 by 1 and connect them to their HT lead, rest it on something and turn the car over, they should spark. Don't rest it on something grounded, as that'll be where the spark happens, and you won't see it.

Bump.

After the following: Drivers door, paint code: LC9Z Drivers floor mat (carpet) ISV Passenger seat forward/backward handle. (the loop of plastic one)

After the following: Drivers door, paint code: LC9Z Drivers floor mat (carpet) ISV Passenger seat forward/backward handle. (the loop of plastic one)

My last comment was directed at DavidWort, "you must have a proper quality lambda to get a 9a to idle hot properly", sounds sarcastic! So, cleaning the ISV doesn't seem to have made a difference, still with the high idle and the rev staying up between gear changes. Suppose it could be knackered. I'll look for a new/used one.

Sorry, carpet.

My drivers car mat has gone in the bin, so I only need the 1, but will buy a set if you don't want to part them up. Thanks.

The marks on the fly wheel (both of them) and the cam markings all lineup, so I'm not sure why it'd make a difference. They cannot be unaligned unless the cams are fitted incorrectly. My fall down was using the rocker cover marker as its a variable. Is the lambada sensor thing a joke? I don't understand.

As the cam pulley has a woodruff key, you'd expect them to line up, well they do, but the mark you aline the cam pulley to is on the rocker cover, which is a variable, depending on how tight the valve cover is! That was my mistake. Just cleaned the ISV and its still got a high idle, in fact upon a warm start it now needs 3k revs to get it going! I've made it worse! I'll leave it to evaporate over night and try tomorrow.

My 9a has a V (or toothed belt), and I have some spares (sorry if not allowed mods) but they don't have pulleys. I've made a special tool to change a pulley though!

Not the best shot, but this mark: http://imageshack.us/a/img534/4416/img5036o.jpg So I lined up the cams, then put the cover back on, then fitted the belt etc. It was wrong, so when I re done it, I didn't take the rocker cover off again, just used the mark in the image. Supercharged: You think its still a tooth out? The marking ALL line up now, even the cam markings. Oxford.

The breakthrough appeared to be that the marking on the rocker cover wasn't true to the marks on the cams. I had lined up the cams, them placed the rocker cover on, then done the timing to the mark on the rocker cover. After my *insert high number here* attempt, I decided to stripe it all back and start again. Turns when the mark on the rocker cover lined up with the cam pulley, the cams were out. I've put this down to over tightening on the rocker cover, therefore moving the position of the mark. The dizzy is also on the original mark it was before I started all this work, so I'm confident the timing is back to what it was. I've used my timing light to get it back to 6degrees BTDC (well, actually 2 teeth on the flywheel, as I didn't get an adjustable timing light) I plan on cleaning this ISV as well as the throttle body over the next few days, if not the cause of my issues, its something that should be done anyway, its probably got 140k's worth of crap in them! I'll do some more reading on how to test both of them and do that after I've cleaned the bits up. To expand on my issues now: High idle. Usually around 1300rpm When changing gear the revs stay at what they were before pressing the clutch in, once engaging the next gear, the revs go to where they should be The car will pull its self along in lower gears. If I get up to about 30mph and chuck it in 3rd or 4th, the car won't slow, it'll keep a constant speed, as if I'm applying a little throttle Sometimes when coming to a stop, the revs will sit higher, roughly 2500rpm, until I depress the clutch and pull off.