sam2.0

Fixed! Figured I should update this incase anyone else has the same issue. It was the damn spark plugs. I'd ruled them out as I had tested them by grounding them one by one, they all sparked. But, I figured it was worth replacing them anyway. Just done an oil change too, so its good to go now. Thanks for the help guys.

Corrado 2.0 16v 2x (front) track rod ends 2x rack boots New CV boot Front alignment and fitment of the above For £310 inc VAT?

Thanks, for £10 it may be worth trying anyway.

Sounds like 3 cylinders and has very little power. Once the car is above 70oC it seems mostly fine with the odd dip back to lumpy mode. Once fully warm it'll drive fine through all the rev band and gears.

Do you know part numbers? Its a 9A Engine...

Fuel filter replaced and still no joy. It works fine when its warm, but lumpy (3 cylinders) when its cold. To me that sounds like a temp sensor not working. Suggestions?

Just had my codes read and this is the only one that's come up. 2112 - ignition point sensor After a bit of searching this seems to also be called "ignition reference sensor", which is the cable attached to the 4th HT lead. The issue with the car is it sometimes fires on 3 cylinders, more so when its cold. So far I've changed the dizzy cap, rotor arm, HT leads, single coil. I have also turned the ignition point sensor around, apparently it can only go on 1 way. So, could the cable be knackered? The engine doesn't seem to care if the cable is plugged in or not. Any other ideas?

I'm having no luck with my ebay cable (to use with VAG COM). Is it best to buy one of these (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/U480-Universal-OBD2-CAN-BUS-Fault-Code-Reader-Scanner-diagnostic-scan-tool-UK-/221039216694?pt=UK_Diagnostic_Tools_Equipment&hash=item3376f6c836)? Or anyone located near Oxford who maybe could help me out?

I was starting to lean to injectors. What's the best cure, can I get them cleaned? Is it worth using those additives in the fuel tank (personally I don't think they're a good idea)?

Its a new dizzy cap and rotor arm as well! I'll give it a go. I'm just trying to see if its the same or worse by removing the leads?

Its always worth trying another link. I just put a cable across from the live terminal on the battery for testing. But, don't leave it on, as it'll drain the battery!

HT leads and ignition coil replaced and its still doing it. To begin with, it was only on start up now, I'm having it intermittently whilst driving as well.

After a replacement ignition coil for a 9A engine. This is the cylinder shaped part, not the cube. Thanks.

The stereo should be on switched power, are you sure you can't turn it on when the key is out? If you can, read the voltage with the HU on. The voltage on the battery drops to 0.01v every so often? That isn't normal. Get the battery tested. 12.3v is fine for an idle battery. It could be a lose wire getting wet, or even a connection getting wet. Again, are you sure its not because the wipers are on thats causing the drain, rather than just because its raining? You also should check the earth points for the engine. Its process of elimination. Can on, check voltage, turn stuff on 1 by 1, you can also pull fuses 1 by 1 and see if it causes any difference in the voltage. Even do it with car off (key out) lights, hazards, stereo etc still work with the key out of the ignition.

It does drop slightly, well for me it does. HU (head unit?). Seems possible, but if you had the ignition on (engine off) it could be a few different things. Try with the key out and turn the radio on, see what the drain is.

A short perhaps? Get a reading with the car on, and start turning electrics on 1 at a time. You'll get an idea of what is causing the issue. I initially assumed my alt just wasn't outputting enough, as the car would only fail when it was raining in the dark with my requirement for some loud music. I figured having the wipers on full, full beams and the stereo loud was just taking too much drain. When I say fail I mean the engine just died.

Sorry, voltmeter. You should get ~14.4v across the battery. Try it before and after adding the 12v to the excite terminal, so you can see a difference. Mine is more like 13.8v now it's all fixed. Reckon if I replaced to return (from alternator to Batt) it'd be better.

It goes through to the fuse box in the drivers foot well. To prove that its the excite cable, just put 12v from the battery to the excite terminal on the alternator and test the current across the battery.

£35 @ ECP. (Or £50) Suppose I bite the bullet. I was going to change the oil soon as well, I'll do the sparks at the same time as it all.

Well, the sparks seem fine, just had a fair amount of carbon on them. But, 2 of them had rust! it was above the nut, where the HT lead attaches. Dizzy and arm were replaced only a few months ago. The car also smokes from the exhaust while its running like this. This morning it was loads of smoke and I stalled. I then tried to start and I could hear it trying to turn over but it wouldnt start. Gave it 10 seconds and it started fine.

When I start my 2.0 16v it sounds like its only firing on 3 cylinders, after about 15 seconds it starts to sound normal again. Or if you just give it a little gas it seems to sort its self out. I was thinking it might be injectors, but also wondering about HT leads etc. I'm going to be doing a oil service on it in the near distant future, so will do sparks etc then. Rather not shell out £70 for HT leads if its not going to be an issue.

Depending on where the rear of the drivers seat is positioned, it sometimes sinks further back that its set as. If you're in the seat, and put some weight on it, it'll make your left side be further back that your right. Its as if the teeth for the rear adjuster are missing. Any advice?

I've got my alternator working now, but it seems that the nut is undoing its self. I tightened it by hand with an allen key and a spanner, but its obviously not enough. There are a few pulley tools on ebay, but they don't seem to be the allen key style, but sort of a star drive (around 20 points). Can someone point me in the direction of one, or have a part number? Its a 2.0 16v.

£45 for top and bottom hoses (may as well if I'm draining the lot) and 3litres of G12++ all from vwspares.

Can't find it on ebay. Need to call GSF and ECP to find out about stock. Its old water, it's not blue/green, more rust colour. So I want to do a full swap out. So, if its 2x G12++ which is 3 litres, the system takes 6litres in total? I've read abit about airlocks, does it not have a air lock screw on the top of the rad? My E30 used to...