duncgti

do you have a working sun roof mechanism for sale i need the running rails

My sunroof slider is broken so need a working sunroof mechanism if anyone has one they are selling

Also at 48 seconds you can hear the revs just drop and the idle splutter and 2.51 how lumpy it is after throttle

Bit of an update from today. Went out to the car and double checked ignition lead orientation which was all correct. Then went on the hunt for air leaks, i basically just double checked every join or jubilee was sitting level and tight and that none of the hoses were cracked or perished, again everything here seemed fine. I removed the rocker cover breather hose whilst checking for leaks and found a small amount of moisture/mayo inside,this got me a bit worried so took off the oil cap to have a look, all clean also checked the coolant levels which were good and no discoloration either. I checked online and apparently this could be due to moisture in the engine due to it sitting for a while. I don't believe the head gasket has gone as there is no smoke and its not using water. Also got a video so you guys can get a better idea of whats going on. link excuse the look of the car its still being worked on and needs a good clean and the last of the trim put on. if anyone could have a watch and advise that would be great. I'm thinking isv valve it didn't do a thing when i unplugged it. Really need to get it on vag com to see if its throwing any codes. Next step is to check plugs and make sure all leads are firing probably going to change the dizzy cap and rotor arm just to be safe.

nice one i shall check them as well all the intake rubbers are in great condition and the intake pipe has been changed for 42 draft intake like this http://www.42draftdesigns.com/Mk3-VR6-Upper-Intake-Tube_p_339.html as it had air leak problems when i got it, so i made sure it was sorted but i will double check all intake hoses just to be safe

ok i think my plan of action for the weekend is as follows 1 check manifolds make sure everything is nice and tight 2 triple check the leads!bit disappointed my new leads didn't come with a new king lead! and check for spark. check rotor arm matches its relevant position at tdc 3 pop the spark plugs out and check the condition (they are brand new ngk plugs so hopefully clean) 4 clean the isv valve (again this was replaced with a good condition one not long ago) 5 check for any air leaks just in case i can't take the car for a test drive as it is sorn atm i am trying to get it all back together running nice for the mot. And yeah there is a bit of engine shake when the revs climb near 3000rpm could the oil pressure regulator have anything to do with the car running rough? i remember reading that somewhere? anything else i should look out for and check? any sensors that may have failed causing poor throttle response? I went out to the car tonight to quickly try the leaving it running at 2500rpm for 10 mins trick to see if it helped and the car started having an erratic idle and a couple of loud back pops almost stalling,it was low on fuel but not empty which may have been the reason. which brings me to my next question i put 2 Jerry tanks of fuel in it roughly £10 worth and the car has used all of this, and has only been run up to temp a couple of times maybe half hour 45 mins running max so we can add excessive fuel consumption to the list as well! so fuel pressure regulator? fuel pump? all the injectors were flow checked and reconditioned less than 2000 miles ago so i know they are good.Going to leave it for Saturday so i can have a full day problem solving and ticking things off that are actually ok. Anything else you guys can recommend to check? could the problems be caused by faulty ecu relay or anything else that isn't a common problem? and again thanks for the help there are just so many causes for the problems its hard to pin them down.

i shall give that a try first then if not it may be best to change them out, they looked in good condition though. Thanks for the fast replys guys really appreciate it. I'll try and get a video up as well so you can have a better idea of the problem.

don't work dox the firing order is correct and its a dizzy cap model not a coil pack if that's any help to anyone.

it sure sounds like a misfire, i could run engine flush then replace the oil but i don't really want to put any additives in with the oil as its fresh castrol. I will try the battery trick on the off chance it works i mean the car hasn't had a good drive in over a year i think the ecu could do with being re learned, but again i would like it running well before i even attempt to drive it anywhere. also forgot to say when i put it back together fresh oil was pored over each tappet and the cam lobes so it was by no means dry when i first fired it. its also ticking over at a steady 750-800 rpm and not fluctuating which is a good sign as well i am just worried about this noise. would an engine flush loosen stuck tappets off?

no i haven't had the rocker cover off yet to check the cams that's on the list this weekend. The oil pressure light hasn't come but i haven't done an actual test.

that could be the case, is there any way to free the tappets up without stripping it back down?

ever so slightly but nothing like they are now, also the car runs very clean no smoke at all.

Hi. Bit of a long story but hopefully someone here will have some good advice. my 1994 vr6 has been of the road going on a year whilst i sorted out body work and gave it a general overhaul. The last thing on the list to do was strip the head off and replace the valve steam seals as 2 of the plugs were getting oil on them and causing a misfire. So me and a friend with a good mechanical back ground striped the head off the car removed and numbered all tappets and there relevant positions, no signs of bore wear in the bottom end, but the valve stems were rather coked up. cleaned everything down so it was spotless changed out the valve steam seals and removed all carbon deposits from the valves and re lapped them in spending a good few hours getting it done right. We then put the head back on with new gaskets all round, new crack pipe, thermostat housing, oil filter, basically any parts that looked even slightly dated got changed for new. Re mounted the cams and tappets (these had been cleaned of old oil) and set the timing using a cam lock plate and re attached the cam gear. Turned the engine by hand whilst checking the timing mark and all seemed good, put in new coolant and oil then set about firing her up. After spinning the engine with no plugs to build oil pressure we put new plugs and leads back on and fired her up. Started first turn of the key but still had a slight misfire and a more pronounced tappet noise which we thought would go away after oil had re circulated around the head. the noise is still there after 20 mins of leaving the car running, and bringing the revs up to 3000rpm sounds even worse! the tappets were the only thing that i didn't change along with the timing chain guides as they were in great condition. Does anyone have any ideas on what the problem could be and what i could try to fix it or if i have missed something silly? we triple checked the timing so i cant see this being an issue but just don't know where to go. It ticks over but when you put your foot on the throttle quickly it bogs down before the revs climb. A mechanic has told me to sit the car at 2-3k rpm to build pressure up in the tappets, is this OK to do? or is my best option take it back apart and put in new tappets? i really want to get it back on the road after putting so much work into it. i feel the misfire may be due to a sensor so will get it on vag com asap but really need to sort this tappet issue. sorry for the essay i thought the best was to get a good answer would be to give all the details on whats been done. any help would be much appreciated.

great thanks1 can i remove the lock barrels from the handle without the correct key though?

So i've decided its time to get all the locks on my corrado working as im currently only able to open the car from the passenger side! the dealers wanted nearly £70 for new tumbles so was wondering what other vw locks i could strip down and use? mk3 golf? early passat? im planning on making a trip to the scrappy this week to get hold of a few barrels but will i need the keys for the barrels as well to remove the tumbles? the same goes for the rado the my key doesnt unlock the door so can i actually remove the barrel without the correct key? sorry for all the questions i just want to make sure i get all the correct parts efor i start taking the handles off and cant finish the job. Thanks in advance Duncan

hi same thing has happened to my passenger door handle could you pm me the info on repair kit for both handles, might as well get them done at the same time.

heey guys thanks for all the advice! had a good day today, got one off my mates round to help me out today and got a compression test done on the engine. Whilst taking the plugs out we noticed a few were coked up and in a bit of a sorry state. We ran the tester compression was fine on all cylinders so we decided to clean the plugs up and give it another run. Car started and ran perfectly! firing on all cylinders, we think the reason for the misfire was due to poor injector flow causing the spark plugs to get coked up and not spark efficiently causing the problem to persist when the new injectors were fitted. Should have taken them out earlier really but as they were only a few months old didn't think they would be the problem, a note for the future always start with the simple things first :) feels good to be driving a working corrado again, went for a nice long drive just to make sure it was ok. Thanks again for all the advice i'll get some pics up of the cleaned up bay.

right more updates! the loom has been fully soldered but it hasn't cured the misfire, i decided to remove the injectors and send them off for flow checking and cleaning, these have now been refitted with new o rings and manifold/throttle body gaskets and everything checked and cleaned. After putting it all back together.....still misfiring!! im really starting to struggle to think of anything else it could be, im getting fuel, air, and spark so my next plan is to do a compression test and try a different ecu and run vagcom. Does anyone have any other ideas that could cause a misfire like this? Thanks Duncan

thanks it was good to meet you to, thanks for all the help! hopefully we'll get to the bottom of it.

yeah i think thats what im going to have to do but i didnt really ant to strip the fuseboard side, i was going to remove the plug and solder it onto my existing loom so i didnt have to take the dash out!

anyone know about the loom

does anyone know if the passat vr6 obd1 loom will fit the vr6 without any issues? because if it does i can start stripping out the old loom and check injectors etc. Thanks

just to keep this up to date i went to check the 42 pin plug which i found wrapped in electrical tap..always a good sign, unwrapped it to find 42 crimp connections! hmmm so made sure they were all tight one had fallen out so re crimped it just to see if it helped and it can hold an idle now but still terrible. the next question is will a passat engine harness work in a corrado as the spare engine has a new loom? it is a slightly newer loom from an auto car but it still has isv not an electric throttle so im guessing its the same block but will the fact its auto mean the engine loom has other sensors etc??. I don't mind putting in a different loom if it means fixing it properly. please help :( Dunc

Thanks for the quick answers guys, RB i shall try the 42 pin connector in a minute and see if that helps, as for the injectors the spare engine has everything still attatched and comes with a wiring loom so if there are any electrical faults i should be able to replace any damaged wiring, and also try the injectors off that while i get mine refurbished. I don't mind taking the inlet off as i can get it powdercoated befor refitting it so it tidies up the bay a bit. The car had been sitting for a number of years and due to this the engine loom is a bit tatty and the wrap tape is brittle and falling off in parts so i would like to re wrap that as well. And as for air leaks i have checked the induction side and everything seems fine i sorted that when i first got the car as there were splits in the intake hose etc,i live in ruislip which is just of the a40 uxbridge junction so not to far away from you. Rustynuts- as for sensors which ones should i be checking? the plugs are new as is most of the ignition system i will try clipping the leads back onto the plugs just to make sure they are seated firmly. Thanks again guys any more sugestions as to what could be the cause of this would be much apreciated.

This is going to be a bit of an essay but i hope someone on here will be able to help me out. I have a k reg vr6 that has has a bad misfire issue, i had a look on here and have since changed all plugs,leads,dizzy cap,rotor arm and king leads. I also read the isv could be causing the problem so i cleaned that and also changed the diaphragm for a new one which didn't help so tried another isv, again didn't help. next i changed the fuel filter which was really filthy very dark fuel came out of it which was worrying, i have also removed the incoming fuel line to check if i was getting fuel at the rail which it is. the fuel pressure regulator also got a clean and looks fine. Now this is where im stuck as i think the injectors could have got dirty due to the fuel filter causing it to under fuel the car will fire but cuts out straight away as soon as you come off the gas, im just going to list some things and see if you guys think it could be causing the problem. Faulty injectors Fuel pump relay Fuel pump (apparently there's 2) bad ground lambda sensor (car has a decat) maf sensor anything ignition related? im really stuck as this is my daily car and would like it fixed, i have got a spare passat engine i can get hold of for parts. Would vagcom show up injector faults? and im also going to do a fuel pressure test just in case. Again sorry for such a long list of questions i've come from mk1 golfs which are relatively easy in comparison. Thanks Duncan