Riki

i Have fitted the parrot kit to a few cars and it worked a treat. It was with a nokia phone though but it should be compatable. I like the fact it uses the original speakers so all you had to run in was the mic. If you were clever you could hook up the send recieve button into a cruise swith and make it look factory. Might work.

16 v,s are supposed to idle at 1000 rpm.

Are you not able to claim the matrix under warranty from vw due to the recall campain. It might be worth a call to customer services. I know the dealers have a habit of ripping everyone off so its about time we got something for nothing.I know they were still doing matrixes on golfs,passats and the odd corrado when i worked at a dealers. That was 5 years ago though.

try and get a four wheel alignment done and not just the tracking . The camber and castor really afect the way the car handles too. if you take it to a fast fit place they generally dont have the skills or the tools to carry this out properly. As i posted a little while ago every vw dealer should have 4 wheel alignment equipment as a minimum vw requirement. As a pre check prior to doing the geometry they will check the running gear to see if anything is loose or excessivley worn. So they will pick up if anything needs replacing. I think the book time for a camber and toe adjustment is one and a half to two hours. I know that this could seem like a lot of money but if the car is set up correctly by a skilled technician it will feel so much better. Like night and day.

possibly the maf sensor. When you boot it you will get a huge rush of air in the induction system. If the maf sensor is out of spec it will not be able to inject the desired amount of fuel to give the desired acceleration. They are a bit on the fragile side and prone to failing. try and get a loan of a good one from someone local to try on your car and see if it cures the fault. They are a doddle to fit.

dont use a vice as you will crush the new bearing and then need another new one. get someone that knows what they are doing.

Check that the idle switch is actually contacted by the throttle linkage when the throttle is closed. Sometimes the throttle cable is adjusted up too far and as a result the linkage doesnt close over properly.

Could be a noisey raer wheel bearing also. If you spin the wheel by hand with the car off the deck you will be able to hear it drone slightly.

try and change the gear oil to the genuine vag sythetic gear oil. It used to come in tinns about the size of a beer can and you had to puncture the lid to get the oil out. I think it was refered to as G5 oil as the part number was g000 525 001 or something like that. Anyway it is really good for curing that problem on the c. Also make sure the linkage is set up right.

my mate had a g60 golf with the same prob as yours Caios. His turned out to be a front sensor. We cut it open after replacing it to see where it had broken. The point wher it clips onto the strut there was a small break in the wire ( inside the outer covering). I think with suspension and steering movement over time they become fragile and break.

The camber being out would cause a noticable drift on one side when driven on a flat road. Evry car will drift to the left to a small degree due to the design of the road but excessive pulling could be the camber. The strut design on the front is a bit prone to getting knocked out of speck. Especially if the car is lowered and hes less travel. Try and get a 4 wheel alignment done. Ever vw franchise should have one as per minimum standards. I think the book time for a front camber and toe set up is around two hours. Maybe less.

Boot lock is pretty easy to come out. Once the tailgate trims are off i am sure it is only a couple of bolts hold it on. You can change the tumblers on that aswell but it is really fiddly. There is a tiny spring loaded ballbearing in the assembly which locates into a recess. this gives you the horizontal, vertical and over ride positions in your key. it is a bastard to get back in and worse if you loose it! If you are going to delock your car i would get it sorted. If your battery goes flat you are not getting in otherwise.

If its not getting fuel the feed pipe to your fuel distibutor may be blocked. The main banjo nut has a small filter inside it. You may have dragged up some dirt running it low on fuel. Might be worth changing the fuel filter too. The hall senders are pretty prone to packing up due to oil contamination. I think the dealers do a sender pack for the dizzy so you can repair it.

Its probably just a track rod end. Nae bother to do really. If it has been on there for a long while and never adjusted you may need heat. AN experienced garage should be able to do it in around half an hour. Its probably better taking in into somewhere and get the front toe set correctly after it.

Yep what you are experiencing is torque steer. Because the drive shafts are different lengths on a fwd car you will always get it in a quick car. It will be worse if the car is really low, to the point the the shafts are pointing up coming out the gearbox.

The fuel filter underneath is pretty easy to change. Get yourself a genuine filter and two new fuel clips. Jack the car up and at the rear offside you will see the filter. It is clamped in place in a plastic housing which also houses the main fuel pump. It should be a 10 mm nut and bolt clamping this together but these can get a little rusty. Lots off wd40 and care taking it off should do the trick. If you break the clamp you will need the full housing ( around £40) Once the nut and bolt are undone clamp the hoses either side of the filter, prize off the old clips and bin them. They should only be used once. Fit the new filter and make sure its in the correct direction. There is an arrow on the filter. Put the new clips on the hoses and rebuild. I think some of the later G60s had the main pump integtated into the tank. Its easy to get to though. Lift the boot carpet, remove the screws from the black circular hatch. You will now have access to the tank unit. Unplug the wiring and remove the two fuel clips. One is bigger than the other so you cant get them mixed up. Using a screw driver and a hammer gently tap in an anticlockwise direction the locking collar on the sender. Once removed lift off the tank unit. There will be a large pump integrated in a resevoir on the bottom of the tank. Lift this out but watch for the fuel that will pish out the bottom of it. On the bottom of this there is a very fine nylon gauze which acts as a filter . You have two options either do away with it ( cut it out) or clean it. your call but i have cut these away on mark threes with similar faults and it cured the problem. I have come across both of these set ups on G60s so it could be either of them. It definaitley sounds like a fuel problem anyway so i would be having a look. I hope this helps you out. Riki.

I forgot about that one. Doh! Good call LHD-G60. The cable change shifts on all vw's are prone to that circlip breaking. Just pop the shift gator up and have a look.

Get someone to move the gear lever in the nuetral position while looking at the two selector cables on the gearbox. The cable that moves while moving across the gate is the one that will require adjusting. Loosen the 13mm bolt on the end of the cable noting the position it is in prior to moving it. Once it is loosened enough to move freely on the selector rod move it a little in the elongated hole. Now the difficult bit. Hold the selector rod and cable in your new position and tighten it up. Now you will either have no gears ( youve moved it the wrong way) or it should be better. A bit of trial and error may be required to get it spot on. There is a VW tool for this job and it makes it a breeze. It locks the two selector arms in place then locates the lever in the perfect position.Cant remember the part no sorry. You should get it with a bit of messing though. I hope this helps. Riki.

A short term solution is to buy some cv grease from halfords or a motor factors, squeeze it into the split. Then clean it up and super glue the boot again. This will only work if its only slightly split. I might be enough to see you through christmas without wrecking your cv joints. You really dont want to get any salt or crap in there. Riki.

If he means the sensor in the drivers door there is a small micro switch in the door handle which is actuted by a lug on the door barrel when you turn the key. These small swithes are prone to sticking and the wires coming from them sometimes break. These go into the door lock itself. Sometimes it is just a matter of taking the handle apart and adjusting the switch. I think you can buy the switches at Maplins or RS Components if it is shagged. I hope this helps. Riki.

If you take the door handles off it is possible to match the lock barrel to the key you have. You will need to go to the dealers and get acces to the lock tumblers. They are small metal tabs which are numbered one to five. You then take the barrels out of the door handles and look at the lock cylinder. there should be approx six tumblers per barrel. remove all of the existing tumblers ( dont loose the springs!) and fit the new ones one at a time with your key inserted. it is correct when it does not stick out at the top or bottom with the new tumbler fitted. Repeat until all six are fitted then rebuild the door handle and refit. A lot cheaper than buying a new door handle. The tumblers are pence each rather than £50+ for a handle. I know this doesnt help you get in just now but Hennys tip will work a treat. Riki.

thats a brilliant price!!!!

I wouldnt recommend using non genuine mounts especially if your car is dropped already. They will be shagged in 6 months and you will have to do it again. Bite the bullet and get genuine vr6 top mounts. Very strong and still very comfortable. You will have to take the strut off the hub and if you do this you will need to get the camber reset. The other way to do it is take the complete upright off the vehicle. That is the strut and hub, disc assembly. The only thing is the bottom ball joints are tight to get off. It is worth the hassle if you dont want to upset the camber. Riki.

I would have a look at the rear bush on the front wishbone. These are a bit prone to wear on higher milage cars and is not easily picked up. If there is noticable knock as the wheels move it may be worth a look. Riki.

The same thing applies. You just have to look at the length of the pipe coming out the new box, be it the rear or the centre. Just cut it in the correct place. The boxes are the same diameter pipes so they will match up ok. If you fit a new centre box it would be an idea to get a genuine clamp for that. The bit that joins the front silencer. They are a lot better fit an seem to seal the pipes a lot better than the kwick fit U clamps. Riki.