Riki

Yes as far as i can remember it should apply to both. I had a look on ekta and it doesnt list the sleeve for the corrado but the part number for a mk3 golf VR6 sleeve is 893 253 139. It always stuck in my mind the set up on the VR6 as i remeber thinking i would have to drop the axle on the first one i did. Just have a close look at the section just befor the rear axle and you will see the bit i am talking about. I dont have access to elsa/etos or i would post up a pic to show you. Anyone help out?

Have you had a look at the crank pulley to see if the keyway on the crank is ok? Pulley might be moving around. Riki

The flywheel mounting bolts are offset so it will only mount in one way where as the crank pulley can be mounted incorrectly if someone has removed the pulley ( allen key bolts ) from the mounting part with the key way.

I used to work for VW and you dont need to drop the axle. The new exhaust comes in two sections with a sleeve to join them at the straight part just before the axle. if you look closely you will see two marks on the straight part to align the clamp and where to cut. Riki

If you have trouble cranking over check the heavy red cable that goes from the battery onto the starter. These are really bad for corrosion . Take it off the starter and give both the terminals a clean up with emery paper until they are shiny. If there is excessive resistance there your starter will be lazy and your alternator will not charge properly. Hope this helps.

Wicked wheels used to come into my work. They have a big mecc van with a shot blaster , spray booth and over in it. They do a good job. He did the centres of my RM's about a year ago and they are still brand new. He is pretty flexible with the price if you dont need them done right away and leave them with him. His name is `Alan McNicol and his number is07989 442 345. If you want a better than new finish we have used pristene in Milton Keynes. The finish is brilliant and guaranteed for a year. I think it is £85 per wheel. I am sure they have and advert in the vw mags.

I know, i dunno if it was a special order but it was an oddball car! The only one i have ever seen. :D

get a good multimeter an conect in in series with thebattery earth strap and the earth post. lock the car and observe the current draw after 5 mins. A nominal value should be around 0.05 amps. If it is more than this you have an excessive draw. To try and determine which ircuit is causing the draw pull the fuses out one at a time while watching the meter. If the draw drops then you have found which circuit it is. if you still cant find it pull out the realays one at a time and observe. Next disconnect big components one at a time. Starter,Alternator,wiper motor, ecu, stereo, alarm.locking pump. Its more likely to be a component faulty rather than the wiring . I hope this gives you some help. :D

I worked in a dealer and one of the very last Corrado VR6's we sold had air con and an air bag as standard. It was a horrible 4 spoke wheel and bloody huge. I remember it as it just didnt suit the car at all. I think there was an additional document in the workshop manuals detailing the fitting of it. Sorry i cant be of any more help.

Then offside track rod is the one that should be adjusted. The nearside should be set to a length specified in the VW manuals. I dunno about the bently manuals but your friendly dealer should be able to give you the spec. It is measured from the flat edge of the track rod which buts against the rack to a centre line going through the track rod end. From memory i think it was something like 330mm. The spec does change depending on model year etc. Once this is set get the camber set then the toe. If your castor is out of spec you have probably bent a wishbone. They dont do very well after a heavy kerbing. Hope this helps. :D

There should be three 10mm nuts holding on the heater box assembly at the bulkhead. I'm guessing as i havnt seen a LHD before but i think the other one should be behind the inlet manifold. On a RHD it is behind the coolant resevoir. Once you get the heater box out it is worth while changing the studs which screw into thye heater box and replacing the nuts. They get a bit rusty after a while.

I have been looking in the forum for an answer to this but i couldnt find anything. Does anybody know if you could get a storm with the option of Recaros? I know the special edition came with them but that was only five cars! I was just curious as i have started hunting for one. Recaros are on my wish list ( along with everything else!) Anybody have access to an original brochure or options list? thanks. :D

There is a tool available to get these off. It is an oversize socket with a left handed thread inside which cuts into the outside of the locking bolt as you buzz it off. They are expensive from Snap-On. Around £90 for a set. I am sure Taskmaster do them also. The Brittool agent that comes into my work said they did them and were around £30. You can always try the old socket hammered over the top as mentioned before. It works best with a double hex i find. Get one that is just slightly smaller than the collar of the bolt. Hammer it on nice and tight and then it should turn off. There is a very good chance the socket will crack but you may be lucky enough to get them off. Good luck.

Might be worth looking at the throttle body switches. If the cable is adjusted up too much or sticking when you let off the throttle it may not be hitting the idle switch. Also make sure that the multi plug going to them is attached. The heat from the exhaust makes them brittle and they sometimes break. Hope this helps.

sounds like the main water pump. I think they are a bit tight to replace but not the end of the world.The v belt is a pig to come off. You need to screw a bolt into the tensioner to release the tension. I think you mat need the alternator off also. Im am not 100% its been a while since ive done one.