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Makes sure you got something supporting the engine when you are fiddling about under it trying to sort this. Once those are out there are only two little bolts holding the front subframe in place Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Can you send me the Passat part number you used for the dust caps. I had a Passat part number for some but still couldn’t locate any Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I didn't get anywhere other than mk3 highline saying he could not help me any further (who I bought them through) I didn't actually take it direct to bilstein as I figured from the various other discussion I had seen on the net that the time, effort and demoralisation (sure that is not a word but you know what I mean) was probably more than I could stand and would be easier to just buy some new springs. Aside of that house project has taken over my life [emoji23] I have got a set of used h&r springs that I was considering trying with with the bilstein dampers if I find time and inclination With the front lowering caps mine is pretty level. My Concern was whether it is a little more crashy than it should be on the rear, but without a comparator it is hard to tell Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Haha god so true, well I have been a member in here since 2003 which was when I started this bloody love affair....[emoji1] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've still got a maroon vr6 bonnet Im pretty sure I bought from you 7 years ago. Yours for £500 [emoji1][emoji1] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Excellent thanks all. Appreciate your views and advice [emoji1360] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok. So you would glue both CDX to concrete subfloor and oak to CDX? Adding the 18mm CDX helps in this case as it brings up the sub floor level to match the tile height. The 16mm of the engineer oak flooring on top will then bring the flooring level with the threshold of bifold doors I have had installed which is what we want. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi all Bit off topic but I know us corrado owners are a devil with the detail and a practical bunch Though some of you maybe just have the knowledge I need and be willing to spread your wisdom I am due to install circa 50m2 of 16mm engineered oak flooring (woodpecker flooring) at home. It is at ground floor level (but circa 12 inches above external floor level) on a concrete slab (part of which definitely has a integral DPM course and insulating layer) that was poured approx 10 years ago. When I lifted the previous laminate flooring there was a felt type underlay with a plastic membrane underneath. There was ZERO evidence of damp whatsoever and my (budget range) damp meter records little to/no damp. Part of the room (circa 15m2) is already tiled with a limestone/travertine type flooring. For various reasons I wish to bring the overall height of the finished floor level up so I will be part laying the new floor over the existing tiles. To do this I am also building up the area of flooring without the tiles with 18mm CDX which matches the finished level of the tiles. The non tiled area of floor has been self levelled circa 4 weeks ago.it Probably required up to about 5mm self levelling in places, but now has a good level throughout. My preference (I think)is to screw 16mm CDX to subfloor and the glue engineered oak (T&G) to CDX rather than float it. What are your opinions on the best methodology/fixing for CDX to concrete subfloor and engineered oak to CDX I have spoken with manufacturer but they were fairly open ended in their recommendations I don't wish to glue to CDX subfloor to self levelled floor in case we make changes in the future (I.e. Change to a tiled floor) and I have a floor full of edhesive to deal with Thanks in advance Edd Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Really, how bizarre. Well it doesn't get used a lot so it's a possibility [emoji1]. Little ba5t&rds Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

So noticed that my HT leads have melted or something? Very odd they weren't cheap ones either, but can't remember which ones they were Any ideas? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yeah i am getting more confused, I thought mk4 rears were banjo type and that's why you need replacement hoses? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

sorry Sean, excuse my tired brain, what exactly do you mean by that when you say I don't need conversion hoses, is this for the end without the banjo type connector?

Hi All, Just putting in an order to VW Heritage, does anyone know if the Mk2 to Mk4 Goodridge hose kit is okay, they are advised online as being 230mm in length. https://www.vwheritage.com/wc69805062p-goodridge-stainless-brake-hoses-mk2-golf-to-mk4-rear-calipe i have asked the VW Heritage team who have advised they can get custom ones made up for same price if not compatible, but no need if these are sufficient Anyone used them? Edd

Same I do a lot of mileage (not in the corrado) but rarely see a corrado on the road nowadays. Mind you I'm on the M4 a lot and haven't seen you either [emoji1] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

What's the general consensus on unbolting the rear beam brackets. Thought I had read before that removing them requires a proper alignment afterwards? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Red Corrado, not sure of the variety. Malvern wells petrol station. looked like he was with a friend in a BMW. Young lad lots of hair on his head [emoji1]. Car looked great. Was driving past in the mk6 golf daily. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Blue vr6 in Malvern today. Spotted twice in the space of a few hours. Driver wearing a flat cap I think. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok. [emoji1305]Let me know how you want paying. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Can you find out approx how much. Postage to 36, WR14 4LT Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

£50? For springs only? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Are these the VR6 ones. Edit: they are just read your post properly. Do you know if anyone has run the h&r's with the bilstein dampers that come with the bilstein B12 kit. Let me know if you end up splitting I had h&r springs with Koni ta's on a previous car and loved them and I unfortunately ended up with one of the dodgy set of eibach springs on my bilstein b12 set Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks both. I've ordered a Land Rover clip. Will let you know Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi easy pops do these have the little clip for the handle that often breaks. Mine broke last week. Are they available separately. If not have can I take one of these please. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok think I have everything I need [emoji1] Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Ok so got them pretty much in. Worked off a post from kev haywire saying 270 degrees so that the slits in the bush are vertical which works out about 15 degrees from the horizontal plane of the beam (if that makes Sense) Anyhow next question. How far should they be pushed in? I'm sure I saw a post somewhere saying be careful not to go in too far, can't check how they were to start as the original beam is still on car? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk