davmatt

Hello, Is the drivers door still available? I actually only want the window mech and motor. Collection no problem.

hI all Did this come to a succesfull conclusion? My C has pulled to the left quite heavily for ages (despite alignment/wheel checks) and although its better with new tyres its always there. Heavier one direction than t'other too. Currently having gearbox issues( bad whine and poor 1st 2nd selection) so it may be off the road shortly and I might as well replace the rack if this has a positive effect Ta! [sup:3skrp1dy][/sup:3skrp1dy]

Apologies to Toad for an unintenionally curt response, but as you didnt confirm my second question i.e. can i do it myself, i took the reply to mean i couldnt and needed to take it to a garage for them to do all of it and at that point i was unclear as to how big a job this was. Apologies again for any offence caused. Thanks for the offer of the injectors Karl i'll take you up on those, where do i send the cheque to? Access notwithstanding it sounds as though i just remove enough bits to give me access to the rail, fingers crossed that all the gaskets come away intact? Any further wisdom would still be most welcome.

So... Currently, based on the fact that i'm relativly poor and i dont trust garages (i particularly dont trust random Bosch 'specialists' to take of the top of my engine, i know its only the inlet but VW couldnt manage it without breaking everything in sitght) it would seem that if i bought a set of Delphi Injectors i would have minimum down time (new for old swop) at an acceptable cost. But the question still remains, do i just 'take it all apart', screw new injectors and o rings in and 'put it back together (the part a haynes manual usefully refers to as 'the opposite of taking it apart, hmmm!). Or am i being optomistic?

Apologies if this is on here but ive spent an hour looking and cant find anything so....... My local garage have said two of my injectors are blocked and coil pack needs replacing So... Do i fit new injectors or have the old ones cleaned Can i do it myself if so is there a thread on her that tells me how? I'm mechanically competent but if someone has done it and written it up i'd be an idiot not to take their advice. I have been unable to find this stuff on here already but as i say my apologies if it is, there's just so much on here.

Did one of mine this morning, took about 2 hours, bearings were £6 from GSF. My local garage wanted £300 quid to do it, an offer i clearly felt i could refuse (must remove the sign above my head that says 'idiot'). My tip, as with any job involving removal of the brake caliper, heat the 2 bolts up first, even if like me you only have a plumbing blowtorch, and then let them cool, possibly even squirt WD40 at them, it gets sucked in as they cool. This breaks the corrosion seal between bolt and hole. The Hex sockets are very shallow and get corroded inside. If you can get a hex key in there at all its dead easy to F*** 'em up trying to open them. (i had to pay the £300 the first time i tried it, know better now!) Have just spent the money i saved on a Sat Nav :-)

I know i need a coilpack because the man at the garage said so (apparently flooring the throttle and getting coughs bangs wheezes and the odd backfire, along with connecting it to some diagnostic thingy indicates coil pack problems) i apparently need the injectors cleaning too! well only No3 actually needs cleaning, but since the designer didnt allow for 'just whipping one out' without taking the whole damn rail off....... Have just looked at the plug leads and they are in a rectangular block shape, which i believe makes me distributorless and therefore eligible for the expensive replacment (no suprises there then, if only the man at GSF had been as helpfull as you lot). Camber etc have all been checked and been declared ok although the guy who does my mot says that cant be true given the play in the tie rod Am still no clearer as to a plan for my wheels/handling problem though. now its not so cold outside (no garage) i think i'll see if i can cure the play the mot man found and see what happens. Maybe my wheels have always been like this? I probably should have said that the reason for all this is over 2 years old. I kerbed the offside front leaving a dual carriageway, took it to VW and have put up with it pulling ever since. Thanks to all for your assistance, this is an excellent resource, i'd possibly have given up and bought a Focus by now without it (I'm Kidding, NOTHING would make me do that) Ta!

No, i actually did (and still do) mean about 50mm/2 inches in. There appears to be 'play' in the drivers wheel tie rod set up too. If corrado wheels are offset, although i'm not ruling out my local VW tossers, sorry, experts fitting the tie rod from a 1970's air cooled van, i wonder if its this thats causing my pull to the left. And while i'm at it how do i tell whether i'm distributerless or not. I need a new coil pack, GSF sell two versions and the difference (and price) depend on it. why is nothing ever simple?

Go outside and look at your front wheels.... is one flush with the wheel arch and the other one about 50mm inside it? Is this why mine pulls to one side? If the answers is yes to these, shouldnt my local VAG 'experts' have pointed this out to me and if they shouldn't be offset what have i broken. On a lighter note, it passed its mot today, 10 years, 140,000 miles only needed a stop lamp bulb. Now if only i could get it to drive straight, not stall, get the air con working, the sunroof opening and fix that bloody oil leak.

AARRRGGGGHHHHHHH!!!!! Sure enough the part they'd ordered me was the fascia panel The actual part is £154 Current state of play a) if anyone sees/knows of a working 2nd hand switch panel (4 speed, no a/c) can they let me know b) In the meantime i have just been to my local scrapyard and liberated an Audi 80 control unit which seems to fit in the hole and the cables are in roughly the right place, although i'll need to use the C's knobs and fascia. Or i might 'extract' the fan switch and 'join' it on to my original Bloody cars!

Havn't Got a part No, foolishly thought that my description of round knobs with bevel gears on the back would be enough. He's probably orderd me a new face plate with the round holes in!!!! I did say it sounded cheap I'll let you know when/if/what happens to be continued......

Foolishly failed to check with VW that the switch unit was expensive (someone told me it was, i own a Corrado, ive bought parts from VW before.... It seemed reasonable it WOULD be expensive) Rang VW yesterday and discovered there only £30 new!!!! I was ACTUALLY speechless, the parts bloke thought i'd rung off Should be here tomorrow Never think to check E-Bay, which is suprising considering how much time my wife spends on there :roll:

Oh yes!! This was very usefull http://www.corrado-club.ca/forum/ultima ... 112#000003 Dont forget its left hand drive though and so back to front Buy a Valeo matrix not a cheap one (about £30) don't plan on doing it quickly, fix everything else while youre there Merry Christmas!!!

Poor contacts in the rotary switch itself dont help either, am just trying to fix mine!!

Have to agree with earlier post. I always moaned about the poor ventilation in my C over the last year or so, my heater matrix has just gone! Now ive replaced it and dried out the carpets and ducts, my windows are fine. Could be wrong but a very tiny steam leak will soon fog up your glass and probably doesn't use enough water to show up as a 'proper leak'. And yes its a nightmare to fix

my resistor was a complete unit from Reader Air Conditioning in surrey(01483 726300, The importers for my diavia air con unit). it's a different unit to the VW one but still provides 4 speeds. The solid copper contacts inside the switch aren't too bad but the thin crappy arm that rotates is bent/stressed etc and bends even further out of the way when its rotated Have to admit, was told about the price by someone, havent checked, but all that plastic, the gears etc all in one unit, got 2 b expensive?

This may be of interest/use to someone out there so here's my two'peneth. Am currently rebuilding my dashboard (heater matrix went and blower only ever worked on speed 4.) Turns out having replaced the resistor (its a diavia aftermarket one not VW so only cost £17 New as opposed to £60 from VW) that my problem is the rotary switch contacts arent making properly. Am just toying with the following options. a) get new/used rotary switch assembly (quite rare/expensive i believe) b) replace with electronic rotary switch (brave/foolish but won't need doing again) c) continue to try and fix mine to be continued......

Mine does this Too! VW claim there is nothing wrong with it and they had about 6 goes at setting it up. Speed, tyres, toe, camber, pressures etc all seem to make no difference. Like the suggestion about the brakes though 'cos (and this is why i'm actually here) my left front 'pulses' under braking (mot man said so) and was thinking about replacing the discs, but maybe i'll swap em over and see if it pulls t'other way

It was my front sensors that were faulty, 'fraid i don't know how they measured the voltage, but suspect it just comes up on their diagnostic gear

This probably comes a little late since the original post was a couple of days ago, However. Have just had both sensors replaced to cure the same problem. First sensor went and brought the ABS light on, second sensor needed changing cos the voltage output from the new one didnt match the old one, fooling the system into thinking one wheel was locking up. Bloody cars!

F*** Ta!

Hello All, Panic time again. The connection to my alternator has corroded and dropped off! How do you get the alternator out of a VR6 engine bay? :?

Don't know about warranty on previous part but: iv'e just fitted a new handle to mine and they are £100 from VW, they don't come as a pattern part and are rare as anything from a scrapper. However if you do need a new one fit it yourself it's a piece of piss! just watch out for the left hand thread on the retaining screw and the microswitch cable being tied to the inner skin of the door, it takes about an hour

I'll have a ferret around in the boot tommorrow morning. When ive finished i'll look for the extractor tool :lol:

Can't help with advice on a tool but can offer my sympathy. Every time i let a garage work on my car they destroy another £60 worth of plug leads. Will also be interested if anyone Knows of a satisfactory way to do said task.