Orkius

hi there looking for vr rad and fan setup as an upgrade for my 1.8t if still available please cheers

Kevin I'm leaning toward either injector signal from ecu or wiring. But what do you mean by something mechanical in the cylinder? Dox neat trick with the jump lead. Will use that in future. I did try that I gaffer taped mine to the valve cover. Did see a spark. Poss a little weak but maybe not the best earth and daylight had something to do with that. But deffo a spark. I have swapped the injector out too so can assume that is working mechanically. So next to rewire back to the ecu plug and see if that does it.

So. Compression test done. Done about 3 reads per cylinder. Reads are: Cyl 1 . 165 Cyl 2 . 163 Cyl 3 . 156 Cyl 4 . 160 stayed constant. Reads look ok from my research. Bit low on Cyl 3 but within tolerance I believe. Plus the problem appeared to be on no. 4. That's one thing ruled out so I guess this must be electrical of some sort. :scratch:

Cheers Kevin bacon. That sounds pretty terminal. I guess you can't just polish that kinda thing out? Hoping it may be something a bit simpler like head gasket...

thanks carrots, i have read this too while researching the problem. however, and i stand to be corrected, i'm sure mine doesn't have this as it's an AUQ engine code. i believe the ignition modules were used on the earlier AGU code engines.

Thanks southerner88 .Will double check that. Don't recall seeing any oil down the hole before But worth checking

Thanks for the replies. Compression test is going to be the next thing.was hoping it wouldn't come to that. Unfortunately I havent invested in the diagnostic reader and have yet to buy the plug for it. The injectors is definitely getting 12v and signal, tested with meter and you can feel and hear it working. Plug comes out but is not covered in fuel, rather a light coating of oil. Think I might have to see what the compression test shows but I'm not expecting good news.

I seriously need some help on this, i'm at a complete loss.. i'm hoping one of you guys running 20vt's may have some experience with this. I have a auq motor using qpeng management. it has been running fine for nearly a year now but has developed a constant misfire on cylinder 4. so at the moment it's running on just 3. it holds idle and doesn't smoke but clearly is running on 3 cylinders. don't appear to be losing oil or coolant either. so far I have swapped the coil packs over and replaced the plugs. they all work fine in the other 3 positions and the problem has not moved. I have had the spark plug out and grounded and its getting a spark. I have also swapped round the injectors with the same results and can here and feel it working. I have also replaced the coil pack loom, as there were plenty of cracked exposed wires. this has not had any effect. the coolant temp sensor is fairly new also. I know my downpipe is cracked, but im ruling this out along with vac/boost leaks as I would think this would affect the general running, not just concentrated on 1 cylinder. the weird thing is that it was playing up before with the same problem. it then cleared its self and ran normal for a few days and then started again. this leads me to think it's an electrical fault but I have run out of ideas im getting to the point where I think there is something up with the ecu, but have no idea what? anyone come across one of these failing? any ideas or advice greatly appreciated

There is an oil sensor in the back of the sump which I believe has a similar size to that. From what I remember it takes the same path as the speed sensor then goes engine side of the drive shaft to the back of the sump. May be that unless I have the wrong idea?

Hi guys after a bit of advice. im running an auq motor with qpeng. i recently fitted a boost guage to measure whats going on. when idling the guage shows 28-30 hg of vacuum. from what i have been able to find out it should be more like 20-22. when fully boosting it goes to about 14 psi which sounds about right. its always idled a bit slow when cold and the difference in idle when hot can be a good 150-200rmp. could this be because there is too much vacuum? is that even a thing or do i have a dodgy boost guage? (it was a fairly cheap one off ebay)is there something that could go wrong or not be working properly to cause a state where there is so much vaccum? any advice appreciated

thanks for the advice guys Mine is used daily so doesn't often sit for long periods. so i think i will look out for some new dust covers and make sure that those pins slide nice and free.

Tbh those pads have been on since i bought it but the brakes have appeared to work fine. Is that the 2 pins that the caliper bolts on to? Those seemed to be free moving however the rubber bellows on one of them was completely split and the others were beginning to crack. Are those supposed to be full of grease then?

Hi everyone just relaced the front pads at the weekend as they were looking low. i found that there was quite a diffence in wear between the inner and outer pads each side. also they were different side to side too. what could be causing this? the photo shows passenger side on the left, drivers on the right both with the outer pad on top which are worn thinner. any advice appreciated photo shows

Oh, i like the idea of 'active'. i dont think thats too daft surely this can't be too hard to do. there's lots of clever bods on this forum. reckon it could be made to work from the spoiler control unit at speed or a button operation once you reach some bumps. i think the hardest part would be getting that factory look we all love when it's 'deployed' on my second one and thats starting to give way at the corners now

Thanks PM sent

Hi. Looking for a steering rack and pipework to the power steering pump. If you still have. Are you able to post?

I had a similar problem after replacing a door. Seemed like it was dead bolted. Couldn't open with the keys or the fob. I think there was some sort of issue with the wiring to the door handle. Solved by taking out the under dash tray to get at the wiring by the fuse box and unplugged this connector(bit of a pain with all the doors closed lying upside down in the the foot well! ). There are 2 flat connectors above the fuse box that go through the body to the door. If I recall it's a 3 pin. As soon as this was disconnected fob worked fine. Hope you get it fixed

Hi all. Haven't been able to find a definite answer. I am Running an auq engine on qpeng management in my c. I want to change the intake manifold for an agu one. Mainly to tidy up the throttle cable fixing. Will this be possible. I.e. will it bolt on to the auq head? I know the port sizes are different and also the injectors. But will that cause any running issues. Thanks for any info

Was outside the BIC in Bournemouth Sunday arvo. pulled in just behind a black VR on a fat set of Bortbet A's looking good! was out for a little cruisein my black 20vt. got a nod

Agreed with all the above. it can be frustrating not seeing an end result to a post like this. i have noticed this sometimes while trying to find solutions to the long list of things which need attention on my C. Kevin - hope thats not a dig at me. this is the first forum i signed up to, still a bit of a noob at this. but appologies if i have forgotten previously. it's true, a little courtesy goes a long way all that said, still a great forum. thanks for all the replies!!

problem solved in the end and in case anyone comes across the same problem. not sure if this is normal or just a peculiarity with my car. so unplugged the 3 pin wire which seems to activate the lock or door handle. locked and unlocked fine. replugged in with locks in open position, dead locked again :scratch: so unplugged it again and locked the car before reconnecting the plug. now opens and closes as before. :thumbleft:

Hi guys Some serious help needed. I have just swapped out the drivers door on my c. Hooked the replacement up exactly as was. However as soon as I locked it I cannot open it again. Either with the fob or with the key. Have I done something wrong? Luckily I can gain entry through the the boot but it's not ideal. so far the only thing I can think is that I have checked the vacuum lines but they look ok.

correct there is no adjustment on either front or back. i spent ages checking i was ordering the right kit for the car and heard good things about these. its a '92 16v and i just finished a 20vt conversion on it. goes really well but this was the last thing that needed doing for the mo but it just looks silly! could the new motor be that much lighter that it's just not holding the nose down? or is that just clutching at straws? front shock mounts are new from gsf (the old ones were fubar) but i can't see that even cheap mounts would have such a dramatic difference. bought them via a uk based website but i understand the shocks and springs are sent from bilstein in germany. looks like i will need to contact them and go from there

i have recently replaced my shot suspension for the MOT. it was running on some spax shocks and springs (non adjustable) the ride was aweful but the car was at least the same height all round. to replace the broken suspension i bought the bilstein b12 kit. the idea being to save the time and hassle of adjusting up coilovers and raise the car up a little to improve comfort slightly as it's my daily. ive had this lot on a week now and its running a different height on all 4 corners and riding especially high at the front. the front drivers side is the highest, about 40mm higher than the back and 20mm higher thean the other front. have i done something fundamentally wrong? it's not rocket science but i can't see a solution, im beginning to think that the kit is at fault. has anyone had any similar experience or know what i've done wrong? [ATTACH=CONFIG]75476[/ATTACH]

Ok.thanks for the reply. feel like a bit of a tit. tried the bonnet. didn't think here was that much of a bulge on it. but there is and therefore plenty clearance. now to crack on