bighands

Right i dunno weather i want to laugh, or cry!!!!!!!! I have found the problem anyway!! It seems the bolt i didnt no did anything when putting all back together, actually does nothing!! and has shaken itsself lower and lower, untill it stoped the clutch from returning back to its rest point, hence the half stuck open bit, check the pics!! So that would be one gearbox removed for no reason, and a job that could of been fixed in 5 seconds :-( So whats that stupid threded hole for anyway, and why was there a bolt in it!!

the screeeching is more likely to be the motor bearings on there way out, eventually they will go so bad it will blow the resistor and you will have either on or off, no 1 or 2 settings, but as for the setting 3 not working sounds more like a switch problem!

oooook then!! So its looks completly fine, not bent, no cracked springs ect!! It was fitted by MR CLUTCH, but the clutch has VW ADUI symbols stamped on it, and LUK, i imagine this is the people who make the clutch, so is this a good make, or poor as its a MR clutch one, it actually looks more like a pattern part than the one that came off the old engine that was a sachs (think thats how its spelt) Just cant understand what went wrong? And if i put it back together again, as i havent actually fixed or replaced anything i just think its going to do whatever it was, again!? Its got stuck open, with no reason to!!!???!!? Ok so reading up on LUK clutches, they seem to be a good make so im going to leav it in i think, But should i put it al back together without getting to the bottom of the problem?

yea think ya right, its a recent clutch, bout year old but was a MR clutch one, and think it might of been a bad idea fitting it again!!! tho its VW bearing and pressure plate, well i no what im going to be doing tomorrow eh!! Will be back im more than sure!

well it was stuck open with the slave cylinder actually removed, so can be that? Release bearing sems fine, no noise and spins freely, shaft seems nice and smooth, slides fine, release fork is bit the bearing clips on to yea? that seems fine as well, no cracks ect, clutch springs seem fine from outside, just wouldnt engage, and i no if i put it back together again, its going to do it again!! Needs a match, and gallon of petrol im thinking?

i have a whole block and head that you can have for a price, but im not posting it cos it weighs a TON!!! Think its covered around 80,000 head needs a re build but bottom end is as sweet as a nut, only took it out as i put in a 2.0! Oh and the head gaskets gone but wouldnt matter anyway!!

Right so i thought the clutch place had started coming away, but after spending the day just removing the gearbox let alone putting it back on yet, theres sod all wrong with it, everything looks fine?! What the hells up with it!!! Its seems i have removed the gearbox for no reason at all??? Why would the clutch stay open?? Im so PISS** off you dont understand!!!!

ah nice seems fairly straight forward, i will need a ball joint seporator tho i take it? And i cant get the car up on a ramp cos the clutch wont drndyive the wheels lol, its staying exactly where it is :-( Cheers for the advice, im sure with few smashed knuckles and blood and sweat i will sort it out!! Andy

Ah nice a reply, cheers! Getting it on a ramp is a problem as i have no drive at all, so jacks all the way!! You actually have to completley remove the drive shafts you mean? not just push them out the way? they come out upwards or downwards? And reomve the brackets for the mounts as well you mean? Cheers again! Andy

the grill is NASTY looks fairly standard apart from that! As for years im not sure but someone will be along to tell you soon enough!! Andy

Well cheers for the replys LOL Im thinking of renting a high lift trolly jack and doing it myself as its going to be cheaper than paying a mechanic to do it! But one of the only problems i can forsee is when i was putting the engine in i found you had to line up the driveshaft ends when lowering it beacuse there is no room to slip them in after, so how will they come out if i cant lift the engine out? theres a lip they wont fit over if people no and have done it before? Any help for anything will be usefull beacuse im really not looking forward to taking the gearbox off after spending the past year cleaning and generaly messing around :-( andy

Even closer inspection it seems the clutch plate bolts have worked loose, and come out!!!!! Is it an easy job to remove the box with the engine in? Anyone have a walk through ect and how much time this is going to take? i did the little fu**ers up to torque settings why the hell have they came loose!!! And what damage have they done :-(

Right so i have took the slave cylinder off, started it and put it in to gear and it grinds for a second and clonks in to gear, and just sits there so the problem lies with the clutch it seems! WTF have i done wrong and why the hell is the clutch stuck open?!? Things like this really piss me off and i think i have had enough at the moment!

Right just took the raddo out for a sneeky spin up the road for the second time after a complete engine upgrade and rebuild, and the clutch stuck to the floor, so i hooked my toe under it and pulled it up and it popped back up. It did this twice, maybe three times before going completly 'normal' but the clutch seems stuck out, it wont engage back in, it does VERY slightly but not enough to pull the car anywhere you can just feel it pull slightly? Good i have mates with transits to tow me home, AGAIN Sad SO would this be the master cylinder, or slave as i would of thought its a bit weird for them to get stuck out?! (as in the clutch wont engage 'on') Or has something much worse happened that means gearbox out time (again), and would prob mean me giving up and flogging it!!!!!

Think it is possible to buy, and replace them alone but hardly seems worth leaving out the clutch for another half hours work, and if the bearing has gone then the clutch must be nearing then end of its life anyway i would of thought, so to save removing the gearbox again in maybe not as long as you think, whip a clutch in fella!!! They come in a clutch kit anyway, around 100 quid if i remember right from VW and apparently best place to get it from, for quality not price!! Andy

It only pulls about 0.1amps think it was the head unit warming up/resetting its self when you first plug it in that was making it go mad! So none the wiser to it all now, but wiring is a right mess so will tidy everything up and put some new speaker cables in while im there and have the whole pannel removed! is there a way of testing a battery with a multi meter, so i can rule that out, even tho its only just over a year old so i wouldnt of thought so?? should be getting about 12.5 volts yea?

Weeeeellllll FOUND IT! Fuses got here after the wrong ones being sent the first time round!! That’s a boring job by the way, constantly running round the from of the car but glad i have done it!! Right this is how it stands. , there is an overall drain of 0.21 amps so thats 210 milly amps right? Sounds fairly good to me, compared to what some of the others seem to have!! But . . then u plug in the stereo fuse and it goes crazy!!! it fluctuates all over the place but seems to be around the 0.8ish mark +/- 0.4 so think that’s the problem and has to do with the horrendous wiring behind the stereo i suspect Couple of questions tho, A, Why does it fluctuate B, Whats the average drain of a headunit] C, With 0.21 amp drain, how long would it take to kill the battery in theory? (its standard bosch silver) Andy

I havent even read this post but im interested in the childlike TItlE tO ThE POst?!? Whats with the random SHifT button?!?!

No they dont, so prob best to, i didnt as they seemed in good nick and fitted too snug anyway (had to grease em up to get them in!) I thought he might find some more, so much for 'last few remaining' ect!

errr i dunno, its a MK 2 with the altonator down the bottom not on the end of the cam, and not cross flow, aka inlets and exhausts go in the same side?!?

Ah set it to that, and SHE A BEAST!! But has now made it even more apparent that the clutch needs replacing, the extra power means slippage :-( if it isnt one thing . . . . . Can lock this now, cheers for the advice! Andy

Great sounds like fun! I put it back to the way it was so it actually runs, but has always seemed to lack in the high revs and idle +-1000 revs all over the place! I think the TDC mark is on the pully on the bottom timing pully, it lines up with the mark on the plastic cover, and through the flywheel it lines up not really a 'O' but more of a punch hole?! lined the cam sprocket up with the inner line and the edge of the top of the head and the dizzy with No1 mark? But you say it should be 6deg before?? would that be the line about an inch and a half or so to the left of the 'O' on the flywheel, looking from the passangers side to the drivers through the flywheel hole?? Andy

Poor, very poor lol Sod it think i will put it back to 'wrong settings' as cant be arsed to fook around with it somethings slipped or i dunno but it isnt right!!! Andy

Yup thats the plan when the fuses arrive, tomorrow hopefully will keep updated as im sure its gunna be a biach! Andy

Right, so always thought the timing was out on the golf, so i have had a go at setting it up myself, found TDC with the screwdriver down the plug hole method, and found the flywheel timing mark, and the mark in the crank pully, on the plastic cover and all matched spot on, set the distribtor to dead on 1, and set the cam timing to TDC, on the side of the head, and now it feels like its got a potato stuck in the exhaust?!?!?!? What have i done wrong?? oh its a golf 1.8 E and hqs carbs, not even injection!!! Not corrado but VAG :-) Andy