VW_chris

Haha, yep, torque wrench on my list of tools to borrow today, I could buy one, but an all singing and dancing one from Nissan will definatly be better haha Where bouts you at? I'm in VQA

cheers jim, been a while since i last had a canny update, tend to do it in big lumps rather than every other week as im usually working on it or at work.... ive got 2 boxes worth of parts to fit, also completely forgot to add my clocks which are now a late/early mash up which looks pretty sweet ;) [ATTACH=CONFIG]79685[/ATTACH] im sure therll be a video of the first crank/run out ;)

SO, in the last few months, many things has happened to my corrado, of which includes new headlights, fogs and indicators and an engine rebuild so i took me rocker cover off to see if i could fix a leak that i had ton the right hand side rear of the cam/timing cover, only to have a completely shagged timing guide greet me, along with slack chains. i had planned on re-building the engine over christmas, but its came early. not touching the bottom end, everything is 100% there so im not even bothering, ill be fixing the worn out valve oil seals, poor sealing valves, knackered chains and an opportunity for more power. so got the head off, no messing round and stripped it all down, the exhaust valves were pretty rotten... [ATTACH=CONFIG]79676[/ATTACH] so cleaned them up nicely along with the intake valves, all to a very nice, polished standard. [ATTACH=CONFIG]79677[/ATTACH] then it was onto the cylinder head ports, where it went from this (you can see how badly pitted the valve seat is) [ATTACH=CONFIG]79678[/ATTACH] to this, both the inlet and exhaust ports cleaned up nicely; [ATTACH=CONFIG]79679[/ATTACH] once all the valve train was out, into the dishwasher for 2 hours, to remove any bits of wire brush, and just general crap i couldnt reach [ATTACH=CONFIG]79681[/ATTACH] then, swapped out the old valve stem oil seals, which compared with the new ones, are a massive improvement. used a specialist tool to do the job (on the left) from nissan, perks of the job ;) [ATTACH=CONFIG]79680[/ATTACH] from there, the valves got there final lapping in (once before the head went into the dishwasher, once after to ensure a 100% seal) , then all the valve train went back into the cylinder head. [ATTACH=CONFIG]79682[/ATTACH] job done. now onto a cleaning of the cylinder block, you can see why im not re-building the block here, you can still see the honing of the bores from factory, plus not too long ago, she ran 190bhp with 185ft.lbs of torque. so i know the bottom end, is sound. [ATTACH=CONFIG]79683[/ATTACH] parts. now. ive had a hell of a debate with myself over what parts i should get to replace the worn out parts. febi bilstein as OE spec for timing chains, guides and tensioners. febi bilstein for head bolts and to top it off, a raise in compression from 10:1 to 10.5:1 using a "mk4 gasket" or, a metal 3 layer head gasket for the 12v vr6 lump, sourced through The Phirm. [ATTACH=CONFIG]79684[/ATTACH] everythings here apart from my timing chains, but im in no rush for them, i plan on getting my cylinder head back on tommorow, without cams, then ill be moving the car from my driveway, to a unit near my work in sunderland, which i will hopefully be moving into this weekend! got another part on the way as of now on the way, a 1.8t intake temp sensor (verified 2whp) :thumbleft: cant wait till its all back together now, bring the NOISE :cheers:

im going to go with polishing my inlet mani and rocker cover - free if youve allready got sand paper and metal polish ;) 288mm brake upgrade, allthough upgrade your tyres. and as of last weekend, a de-cat pipe on my VR6, flames, pops, gargles and roar need i say anything more?

have a look at my thread, it will help and guide you in some way to fixing it, very similar problems http://the-corrado.net/showthread.php?t=83661

i highly doubt it, belive me, VR6`s get hot. my aux fans bearings colapsed not too long ago so i removed the fan belt to stop it doing anymore damage, and i hated running with one fan, even though it was only for about 2 days. what you want to do if get hold of a vr6 front cross member/slam panel i believe, with a vr6 cooling system, if vw believed they could run a vr6 on a smaller cooling system, they wouldnt have spent x ammount fitting what they did.

peronally, wouldnt put that near my plugs. lets say for example that pressed metal tool were to round one of my spark plugs, i wouldnt be too happy to say the least... nothing wrong with investing in tools, pay some money for some decent kit, doesnt have to be snap on, halfords advanced is just as good ive found, even better price wise and it will last longer than you will have the car if you look after it. also not really related to the post, i keep a small tool box in my boot full of "corrado" essentials, ive got RAC cover, however, i cant really be towed with a 90mm splitter and coilovers.

hey guys, well, shes running again. managed to get her going this morning by using the coil pack of a mk4 polo 1.4. (exactly the same part, only slightly different by the way it looks.), people need to be aware that these coil packs are exactly the same in the way they function as to whats fitted to many other VAG cars. no need to spend fortunes when similar parts can be obtained quicker and easier off other cars, sadly corrado parts are getting more scarce and expensive by the day. the part pictured the ignition control module was broken. constantly closed circuit. i literally mean before this broke as in a day or two before, i had a rough idle, in the past i have had intermittent issues when Ive put my foot down and it was extremely hesitant to go, to the point where ive pulled over to see what was going on. it seems these was the warning signs of this part failing. people also need to know there is two parts to a dizzy ran VR6 coil pack, just because one bit is ok, does not mean the other bit is. i dont suppose any mods would make this sticky?, ive seen a few threads on here where several people have had very similar if not the same problems.

does anyone know if there is a way to bypass this [ATTACH=CONFIG]76025[/ATTACH]

how do, ive put a ht lead onto the the coil itself to see if its sparking with the new coil, its not, the only bit i havnt replaced/tested is the bit above, weather thats failed or not i dont know as theres no guidelines in the bently manual. however, i could proberly get one of another car, it seems, theese coil packs were fitted to a lot of cars, a 1.4 polo coil pack looks extremely similar to the vr6 one. i know the 1.4 polo one is 1.5 litres down and missing 2 cylinders, but going of a general engine stroke cycle, it should produce the voltage i need to get a spark, even if its powering 6 cylinders instead of 4. with regards to the hall sender, im unsure on how to test it and what resistance i should see across what pins, i am getting 12v to that wiring connector also.

ALSO, there is 2 parts to the distributor ran VR6 coil pack, i have replaced the main piece, unsure how to test first piece as the bently manual gives no instrictions for this, just the main part of the coil itself. does anyone know what resistances should i expect to see across which pins? also, if this part were to fail, would this allow 12v to pass through the coil on ignition without it being amped up? [ATTACH=CONFIG]76025[/ATTACH] as you expect, this is getting pretty expensive but i dont care, i just need my car to work before monday, tomorrow is my last chance to get this working.

ill try relay 109 when i can, ive opened it up and watched it switch so i know it operates fine, ive tested my alarm system also, relay clicks as it should all wires connected correctly also, immobilizer is constantly turned off i know because i wired it and ive checked said wiring twice now. i believe the wires are in this order, (black - black/red - brown) i have 12v with the ignition on over black and brown. i have a spare coil from a vw scirocco, a proper coil, does anyone know which way i could wire this up to try and get it to work with my car, if it would work??

so, just replaced the secondary stage of the coil, still not starting.

thing is though, i wouldnt have thought id see any voltage through the wires to the coil if the relay was broken. im getting a constant 9v to the coil whilst cranking (i know this is low but thats because it been sat cranking for about 5 days without re-charging) so that pretty much rules out the possibility of the immobiliser, ignition switch, relays, fuses ect ect, as fine and working, because if they wernt, i wouldnt see any voltage at the wiring loom to the coil. so going of that, i think ive pretty much come to the conclusion the secondary stage of my coil is broken. with regards to the crank shaft sensor, the pin numbers are reversed 3-2-1. , so when i tested the crankshaft sensor, it was infact fine.

yeah, thats what ive been doing since i last posted on here, ive just spent about 2 hours testing my coil against bently manual specs which are; (primary system)- across terminals 1 and 15 = 0.5 to 0.7 ohms of resistance (i have 1.1 ohms of resistance) (secondary system)- then from the coils HT - DIZZY connection to terminal 15 = between 3000 and 4000 ohms of resistance (i have 7300 ohms of resistance) would this kill a spark, i tested my coil pack from ignition and got 12v supply from it, cranking i got 9v supply from it to the dizzy. i have followed this down and through my ht leads to where the spark plug is, so am i right in thinking the coil pack is kaput? i would have thought it would have taken a lot more than 9v to bridge a spark plug gap :scratch:

so, just replaced the crank sensor, no fix, still no start.

tested the crank sensor, am i right in thinking you count the pins 1-2-3 looking at it with the 2 ridges on the top i.e. like this [ATTACH=CONFIG]76008[/ATTACH] if this is the case i am getting 506 ohms resistance across pins 2 and 3

right, ill first check tommorow as to weather i need it or not, if i do i will have that off you

ill be checking the resistance on mine tommorow, if comes back as faulty ill no doubt have it off you, how much you looking for it?

at the minute im staring down at the crankshaft sensor with suspicious eyes. im going to test that for resistance tomorrow. just bought a new rotor arm for it this morning, as i was unable to re-use the one i originally had on the car. i pulled the plugs the other day and everything was fine with them havnt checked the coil for resistance as of yet, another job for tommorow if the crank sensor doesnt come back as faulty.

- yeah ive got breakdown cover with the RAC, im in blyth, not far from newcastle. - its a k-reg, havnt had it vag-commed as i dont know anyone who could scan it, i have a lead which could read it but honestly havnt a clue what software id need for it with it being obd1. plus i cant connect the lead to my laptop. -its a dizzy model with a factory alarm and immob. -it still goes like a train, no problem with compression as far as i know, i havnt compression tested it as it runs champion when it does run, it just isnt sparking for whatever reason. -fuel filter was changed last december, so it should still be good, ive only ran decent fuel through it. -havnt tried a new 109 ecu relay, i have tested it though and works fine. -ignition switch was not a gen vw part, however it still works spot on, i hot wired the car to check. -crank sensor wise, from what ive read on other threads cuts both fuel and spark, im still getting fuel through so thats how i ruled that out. -ive got the alarm completly disabled, it started acting up not long ago not letting it start, i have checked my wiring and re-done it just to make sure, the immob is not causing the problem.

i have spent 5 days trying to fix my vr6 after it would cut out whilst driving and then refuse to start, i currently use it as my daily, im starting a new job on monday so need it fixed before then, i am honestly at my wits end as to what could be causing this problem, so im being serious here, if someone posts a solution to this problem and it works, i will paypal you £10 for helping me. problem is, no spark. engine cranks over no bother and is getting fuel, however there is no spark for whatever reason, with time cutting close for work, i need it fixed for work so i can buy myself a mk3 daily and put her away for winter. so far i have replaced and checked; - Distributor unit with hall sensor of a member on here (purple tom) (havnt tested hall sensor as of yet) - checked relays for ecu and 67 (both operate fine) - Replaced ht lead from coil to dizzy cap with a spare (works fine) - replaced dizzy cap, new unit. (have tried both old and new unit, no difference) - checked ignition switch, recently replaced it, works fine. (tried hot wiring the car to double check, no difference) - have got a 12v live to the coil with ignition on. - have appx. 11/2v on ht from coil to dizzy with ignition on. (havnt tested for voltage whilst cranking) - engine is getting fuel as you can smell it after turning it over (so not crank sensor) - engine has a good ground so i know it should in theory be making a circuit with the plugs. - Ht leads are in good nic, if it started this morning it wouldnt have started at all if they were knackered. - i have checked all of the fuses in the car, all 100% - my alarm is not 100% but should not be causing an immob problem as i have wired it off. (so the alarm/immob does not operate) ive got a bently manual which i have been working through to try and find the problem, i just would like to know if anyone has had a similar problem to this and what the cure was so i can try it. any help would be greatly appriciated, chris :bonk: .

how much you willing to pay

hello guys, i am in dire need of a vr6 distributor, complete unit, rotor arm, dizzy cap ect? contact me via mobile 07443338283 and ill paypal money over cheers chris picture of the type i need, as they do vary [ATTACH=CONFIG]75957[/ATTACH]

yo, today my driveshaft decided it wanted to snap inside the hub, lost a centre cap, the hub nut and part of the splined shaft. this has broke the wheel bearing and no doubt the drive flange, its caned the brake disc and carrier (288mm upgraded) has been cut into by said disc (can get one no sweat). what i need to know is are theese corrado only parts OR can i use parts off other models? ALSO heres the list of parts i need so far,if anyone on here has what i need in good condition, get in touch! - N/S Corrado VR6 Drive shaft + Hubnut - N/S Corrado VR6 Hub assembly (pref with good bearing) - N/S Corrado VR6 Track Rod End - 2 x Speedline Centre Caps Any help with this would be greatly appriciated, im copying it into the wanted section also CHEERS CHRIS!