kebabman

4WD, 280bhp, limited slip dif.....be a hell of a trackday car.

All fixed now, not Datsun buying for moi. :lol:

There isn't a correct torque apparently, it's just done by feel. Don't seat the bearing that's the mistake I made and they've only lasted 8 months. :oops: http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic.php?t=36480

I'm talking about the rears. ;)

Ok cheers. :) Does the fact the noise goes in one direction but not the other mean only one side is knackered?

As I mentioned in another thread, I think my wheels bearings are knackered due to mis-fitting (by me). However I noticed today when driving that if I corner fairly hard on a left hander, the noise goes away, but it doesn't on a right hander....what does this mean? Am I likely to be right with my diagnosis of wheel bearing....a droning noise that increases in pitch with road speed, but not linked to engine speed? Don't want to replace them only to find out it's somtething else. :?

So you're saying don't tighten them to seat the bearing? Just do them up to the point where there is no play in the wheel/the washer behind is just moveable? Won't it go slack as the bearing settles? The wheel spins freely and I've got rid of the play by tightening them up a bit, but it's still making a nasty noise. Always thought you had to tighten up then slack off taper bearings so they seated properly when in actual fact I was knackering the bearing. :oops:

Replaced the rear discs on my VR6 about 8-9 months ago, did the bearings at the same time, and they're knackered already. :roll: I can see whats happened, the hub nut wasn't tight enough, I've driven around with too much play in the wheel and not noticed until the bearings got noisy. I've got a Porter manual (which is shit btw) which covers the Corrado vaguely, but they don't specify how tight you need to do the hub net to seat the taper bearing. It just says "tighten nut to the specified torque, then back it off again until you can just move the washer behind with a screwdrive." Look in the "data" section and it's got no number for the VR6 rear hub nut. So...I did the hub nut to the highest setting on my torque wrench (210nm), and then backed it off like it says. Drove fine, and I checked the wheels after ~50 miles and there was no play. All good. When I checked them this evening after a few thousand miles, and there was definite play in both the horizontal and verticle, not loads but too much none the less. Tightened the hub nut up again and then backed it off a bit less this time hoping I'd get away with it but the noise was still there. :( So now I've got new bearings, how much torque is required to seat them? And how much should you back the nut off after? Any help much appreciated! Cheers. :)

Excellent, I'm a bit crap with wheels, cheers Henny. 8)

Thanks guys, I've got a VR. Looking at that link Chris posted, the 15" steels are ET38...but the 16" alloys are 42, weird. How will I know when I pick them up? Just fit them and see if they rub? Can I get spacers to make ET42's fit?

Bought myself a set of 16" track wheels. £15...and with that touch of bling. :lol: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... %3AIT&rd=1 Thing is I forgot to check into the PCD/Offset...are they going to fit? Suppose at that price it doesn't really matter...but it'd be nice. :?

Err doen't all Corrado's have ABS? And wouldn't the ABS systems performance vary between makes/models/cars? How can they prove your speed from the skidmarks? :?

Nice. I was looking at scoobie wheels, but kinda assumed that they wouldn't fit... :?

Yep, tis, those would be spot on otherwise!

How cheap is cheap though? Not wanting to spend much more than a couple of hundred really...without tyres, as I've got cut slicks to go on them.

Hi guys, more questions, sorry. :oops: I'm looking at the best way to spend a couple of grand on my VR to liven the ol' girl up a bit. One option is new engine, the other is supercharging, as it seems to me that N/A tuning the 12v provides a poor bhp/£ return. Anyway...I was looking around and saw the GB on VR6OC for the C2 Stage 1 S/C kits @ £2100. They also offer fitting and a 2 yr warranty at £250. Sounds like a good deal, but there's a lot of talk and not a lot of action from the threads I can see on VROC. Has anyone had any dealings with 'UltimateTune'? Their website still isn't up despite them saying it would be a fortnight ago...which in itself makes me nervous. Is the C2 kit comparible in quality to the VF kit? Lastly my engine has done 134k, is an S/C setup going to cause instant destruction? Cheers :) Alex

Hehe, I take your point, nothing is ever as easy as it sounds...I'll take a look through your thread tonight. Thanks for the info. :)

Thanks mate. Missed the 5112, was looking for 5x112. :oops: I'm looking for a set of 16s that aren't too pricey to use as track wheels, but being a poser, I don't want them to look utter-tripe either....which rules out most of the mk4 Golf wheels. Any suggestions?

Thanks for the reply. :) Doesn't sound too challenging. Quick non-mechancial question. How does the engine compare with the 12v, does it have the same warble? Is it noticeably smoother/more powerful/refined? Cheers, Alex

Thanks for the info. Do you know if the 6sp 4Motion gearbox fits with the VR6 driveshafts/hubs? Do the clocks need changing to 4Motion ones? Thinking about the gearbox...I don't want 4WD, what outputs are on the box? Is the 4WD transfer box part of the g'box?

Hi guys, was wondering if these wheels would fit a VR? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/16-OE-AUDI-12-SPO ... dZViewItem Cheers :)

Yep standard apart from K&N panel filter and a Scorpion cat-back, best run was 14.9...but I've never matched that since. I'd say my average is about 15.4, which is what that run was. Not bad for 134k miles. :lol:

Hi guys, hoping you can help me with a few questions regarding the V6 4Motion engine. Is it a straight swap with the 2.9VR6 unit? Any additional parts required over the engine, ancillaries, ecu and loom? Does the VR6 gearbox fit? What capacity and output is the engine? Cheers :)

You're not the only one. I know it looks like i jumped the start here, but I didn't, and I got a better 1/4 time (which doesn't include reaction time) than this S3 twice in a row. :-P http://www.sp30.co.uk/store/Kebab1.WMV Also here's one of me against a 306 GTi-6. Gotta love the VR6, still faster than almost all the modern VWs. 8) http://www.sp30.co.uk/store/Ashbabstart.ASF http://www.sp30.co.uk/store/Ashbabspeed.ASF

Got my MOT fee back today, at last, plus £20 for fuel and inconvenience. Happy with that, and hopefully they got a load of shit from VOSA, still won't be taking another car there again EVER. :roll: