kebabman

I don't think the 'new' MOT is any more thorough than the old, as far as I'm aware the actual testers handbook hasn't changed at all, it's just it's now entered on a database so if you take it elsewhere they can see what it faild on so are likely to be looking closely at those things. ;)

Really can't see why you'd choose a 16v over a VR6, but lik eyou say, each to their own. :? I've never driven a G60, so can't really comment, but I used to have a Pug GTi6 (2l 16v 167bhp, v revvy) and I far prefer my VR6 even though it's slower round a track (runs and hides :lol:)

Yup agree with that mancdub, 20mpg round town, 30mpg on a motorway run.

Anyone near you with VAGCOM? I'd let you use mine but I'm down in Oxford which is a bit out of your way!

I was thinking that, close your eyes and it's an X-wing. :lol:

Bi-turbo! :lol: Is the highest compression of any racing engine ever apparently, and fuel pressures way in excess of 1600 bar. 8)

3000 to 5000rpm according to the Audi site. :)

5.5L bi-turbo V12 Diesel, 650bhp 1100Nm. Pretty impressive bit of kit, apparently can do 2-3 laps more per tank than it's competitors, which is a lot in a 24hour race! Oh and check out the noise! 8) http://www.audi.com/audi/com/en1/experi ... t/r10.html Video: http://web.rollins.edu/~jspitzer/r10clip1.mov

It's not telling you what the second code is because it's shareware, easy to find out what they mean though, just search for the code plus the words "vag com fault code" on google. ;) A quick google gave me this: 00532 - Supply Voltage Battery 07-10 - Signal too Low - Intermittent Sounds like you've got a low battery. As for the Lambda fault coming back, yes that probably does mean it's knackered. One thing to check first though, where it plugs into the loom in the engine bay (looking from the front of the car, back left very low down) the wires are prone to going brittle and snapping off the connector, this is what happened to mine....but I only noticed when I came to fit the new Lambda. Doh!

Got one on mine too, held on with trim tape, never had a problem with it really. I prefer it to the standard grill myself, but am undecided between it and a badgless grill without the eyebrow.

I know several people that have had very bad experiences with 'noflow' heads, I'd avoid them if I were you. Here's a quick run down: Friend had his 306 dyno'd, then the engine sent to noflow for lightening and balancing of the bottom end, and porting of the head. Supposed to be back within 2 weeks, took more like 6 months, cost a fortune, made 10bhp less on the dyno when he eventually got it back, and then it blew up within a fortnight and they refused to refund him.

My '94 L-reg VR has coil packs rather than a dizzy, if that helps, but not an ECU with a built in immobiliser, that was only on the last cars I think, 1995 ones.

I've not had a problem with it not being registered, keeps popping up saying "You must register", but still gives you all the fault codes etc. 30s sounds like a long time, and this "excessive comms errors" message sounds worrying. I'd say it takes about 2-5s to do a full scan on mine, definitely less than 10. As RW1 says it's better to scan each ECU individually on the VR, but I'd say there was a problem with your lead as well.

I always do them when warm, but then I have noticed as the fronts have got close to the wear markers they're definitey slightly more worn in the centre which does imply they're over inflated. 36 is only for half load as well, says something stupid on the door sticker like 40 for full load! :shock: I've got some new RE720s to fit, so I'll try a slightly lower pressure with these, cheers for the advice. :)

So 36 is too much? What pressures would you recommend for a VR then Kev?

Was browsing the wikpedia pages on the VR6 and noticed at the bottom they mention that the R36 is in the pipeline, a quick google confirmed it with the 3.6L engine from the Yank Passat VR6 being the power source, hence the name change. 280bhp in Passat guise....rumoured to be 300bhp by the time it lands in the Golf. Should be a bit of a beast! 8) http://www.automobilemag.com/auto_shows ... _golf_r32/ Think the 3.6 would go in a Rado? :twisted:

Yes that's true, first time you use it and "Test" the lead it has to be connected to the car. I didn't need any drivers for mine though which is odd, guess it's because it's a seriel cable rather than USB.

Get a new one from VW, I got a whole bag of them from a VW commercial vehicle centre for next to nothing. Is worth having spares for all 4 as those bolts are very prone to snapping when rusty.

Never had a problem riding an R1, wonder how the two would compare...

Agreed, LM grease all the way. What does LM stand for by the way? Low melting?

Nah, this one. This is the actual car and from the front it looks pretty mint, funnily enough he's got no side on shots. :lol: Hear what you're saying about reliabilty. His has been fine over the 18 months he's had it, but realise that's no guarantee it'll be OK for me.

If that's true, what about all the V8s they drive around in!?

I got the cheap GSF ones last time and they've lasted 8 months, had put it down to my poor fitting of them....but maybe it wasn't all my fault. Gone for the more expensive ones now, £9.90 each as opposed to £6something. BTW, if you mention you are a member of the corrado club (no proof required) when on the phone, you get a 10% discount! So that brings the bearings in at £8.91 each. :lol:

Kinda, it's 'other' name is Nissan Pulsar GTi-R. ;)

I know what you mean, it has to be one of the best sounding engines ever.....although I can only just hear mine over the drone of the wheel bearings these days. :x