bigbluec

the only reason i think the starter is fine is because whenever i put a live wire from battery to the starter it turns over. Am i missing something?

Cheers Supercharged, Can't seem to work out my starting problem, the starter itself work fine but occasionaly nothing unless i unclip the wire going to the solenoid and directly feed a wire to the battery positive. I've changed the starter switch twice just incase it was a dodgy one but no joy. any further ideas?

Hi Guys, Just wondered if any of you could point me in the right direction for which fuse or relay the power to the starter motor runs through. if it does at all ? Brgds Bigbluec

Bigdunk has your lighting wiring been upgraded like majority of us have done on this forum? (additional set of wiring directly linked through battery with two relays and two fuses?) If not try the following: -Check all fuses -Remove plugs from rear of headlights check they are clean and try some electrical contact cleaner If you still have no luck check inside the headlight units themselves to see if anything has gone awry! Best of luck

My 90' 1.8 16v on a 70 mile trip on average 15 being on country lanes the rest free flowing dual carriageway! I would get around 260-280 a tank depending on how free flowing the drive was if you get my drift! The worst i ever saw was 240 and that's on an old 12 gallon tank my MFA readings were within +- 2mpg on no.2 setting throughout the tankful. Hope that helps

What can i say.... I've been with Flux now for nearly 4 years and have seen pretty much every aspect now... :mad: When i set my policy up they lost some of my documents which by the sounds of it isn't that uncommon but they blamed me and sent threatening cancellation letters. Through the next 2 years no problems apart from it was clear they were to frikin lazy to get off there arses and try and get me a lower renewal premium (thought that was the idea of brokers?) so had to chase down quotes and make them lower there renewal quotes. Last year i had a knock for knock on my old Valver only required a new wing and mirror very minor damage but other party wanted to claim :mad: They dealt with this pretty well and the repair although v.slow was of top notch quality. Roll on this year and my renewal quote has jumped up by £200 ouch phone and have a chat but they refuse to lower even though through brentacre using my current insurer Highways can beat it by £110 unbelievable and they want nearly £70 quid to cancel even though i never agreed to an automatic renewal. All in all the service is exceptionally poor and the staff are lazy Gunts. Avoid avoid avoid.

Can't wait... Watching endless repeats on uktv is doing my head in.

Kleenex! more like bounty! I soo hope i can go to this Group B's are the dogs danglies!

Hi Riley, The switch for the boot light works of the actual boot latch, you can test to it by forcing it closed with your finger or a screwdriver, just remember to press the boot opener button before you try slamming back down though!

A failed expansion cap noramlly has both of these symptoms: 1, As you look at the underside the core with the O ring doesn't move (it should wobble) 2, When the car is running the pipes are almost impossible to squeeze due to over pressurization. The VR6 Thermostat fits vertically but be warned you're 99.9% going to need a new thermostat casing, to be fair it's not ridiculous money but that's not the point! There are plenty of other threads on all these subjects if you need more info.

Think toad has hit the nail on the head, either that or thermostat has packed up in closed/semi closed position.

Not sure how clever the Vag-Com system is to be honest but i'm sure there are a few on here that can help with that side of things, think Dr matt and phattvr6 are pretty clued up on that side of things.

Hi Matt, No piccies i'm afraid as the unit is still solidly in one piece. Removing the coilpack is pretty simple: 1. Undo all 6 ht leads (may be worth taking a quick phone pic so as to see where they go back on!) 2. Using a spline/hex remove the 2 bolts holding the plastic cover on. 3. Unplug the coilpack (single large idiot proof plug) 4. Remove the 4 x 5mm alan bolts holding it on. Refitting is the reverse of removal! ;-) Edit: Sorry to hear that dubenvy have you checked fuelling side of things? mattkh if your sig is correct (1.8 16v) you have an old coil at the back with a king lead going to a dizzy not a coilpack

Fixed :D it was indeed the coilpack it had started breaking down internally but believe it or not no cracks on the casing hence it wasn't arcing. Big thanks to the Phirm for lending me a good coilpack to try.

Glad to see this thread back at the top where it belongs. Big thanks to Tim, Sam and crew for sorting out my misfire as usual just can't recommend these guys enough they truly are top class.