HodgyVR6

Had my black diamond combi (grooved/drilled) discs and new pads fitted to the front a few weeks ago and the front drivers side brake is making a rather bizarre noise. I can only describe it like a spokey dokey would sound on your bike as a kid. As you apply the break it makes a ticking/clicking noise which gradually slows down as you brake to a stand still. I've done about 800 miles on the new discs/pads and having taken off the drivers side wheel the disc seems to be wearing fine on both sides. Had a chat with the guy who fitted them and as he had never fitted grooved discs before he wasn't much help, just said that he when he fitted the discs/pads they were fine! The brakes seem to be performing fine and you can only hear the noise with the window open, but from the outside it's quite loud! The passenger side is fine and making no noise at all, any ideas?

No probs i'll have a chat with him tomorrow!

The top of his invoice says Auto Sparks, but I just now him as Alan! I'm going to pay him a visit tomorrow to see if he's got any idea's on the old stalling problem us VR6's seem to be experiencing, and also ask him to explain how he seems to think he can adjust the idle on a VR6?! Mat are you local to Woking? cause I can always ask him how he's set for work at the moment and check he doesn't mind me bigging him up on the forum!

Found this guy in Woking, Surrey who just seems to know shed loads about golfs and corrado's, he's a real good lad and just run's his business (if you want to call it a business seems more like a hobby) from home. He said he had to take the bottom half of the dash off above the drivers side footwell to get to the base of the steering column and he could access both joints from there! Whats more to do both joints, fit my new black diamond discs + pads, change break fluid and do a full allignment (toe in, camber Etc the full works), he charged me.......... £85.00 and the car is handling perfectly now. Think I've found a bit of a 'diamond' geezer here!!

Had the same kind of problem with the feel of my steering, very light and jumpy over bumps. There turned out to be alot of free play in the two universal joints at the bottom of the steering column as they were both full of rust/dust etc. Had them both cleaned up and the bolts tightened and the car is handling perfect again! (also got all the alignment checked at the same time).

If it is taking 9-10 miles for the water temperature to get to 60-70 degrees it may well be that your thermosat is stuck in the open postion. Just had the same problem on my VR6 and then it decided to stick in the closed postion and would over heat after 5 mins of driving, got it replaced and every thing is running fine again. Has it always taken a while for the water to heat up or is this something that has just started to happen?

Had my discs/pads changed yesterday and my mechanic guy said that he noticed the car was idling slowly 650rpm thus making it feel abit lumpy. He said he adjusted the idle up slightly by about 40 rpm by turning a screw some where. Are you actually able to adjust the idle speed or not on a VR6? I must say I haven't noticed any major difference in the idle speed, but he did say he only adjusted the screw a quarter turn! The guy I use seems to know his stuff so if he didn't adjust the idle speed what was the screw he adjusted?

Not to bothered about the expense of the idle, surley can't get much worse than it is now! Just wondered if anybody new of a reason why the Golf boys were going for the 264's over the 268's?

Should I go for 264 or 268? Most of the golf boys seem to be going for 264, but would the 268 cams be better in the corrado's 2.9 lump?

Well i've just taken the plunge, order mr shrek and paid in full (the beauty of the credit card). Vince says they're now up to 26!!!!!!

am I right in thinking you can alter the switch over point?

seriously considering giving Vince a call tommorrow and placing my order, but before I do just wondered how much the Schrik will change the characteristics of the car? I know it will give more torque low down but I bought the car in the first place for the lovely surge you get at 3k rpm, will this change? Is it going to turn into a civic Type R?

Cheers for the responses guys. Took it to a local mechanic who's dealt with a number of corrado's this morning and as you said, he seems to think it is the thermostat so getting it changed. Hopefully this will solve the problem!

just driving along! the drive from work to home is only 15 mins so the engine rarely gets that hot anyway. As far as I know they didn't touch anything to do with the coolant system all they changed was the Lambda sensor. Any ideas? [/i]

On the way home from work tonight the water temp went really high over 110 and the warning light started flashing. Pulled over and popped the bonnet but nothing seemed extra hot. The oil temperature was also hotter than usual. Over the past few weeks the car had been running cooler than usual (around 75 water average & 80 oil temp) now all of a sudden it's overheating. Had a new Lambda sensor fitted yesterday could this be associated? Any ideas what the prob could be?

thanx, will give it a go and see what happens.

Sorry if I'm sounding stupid but where is the air flow meter?

Cheers, I'll give Vince a call later on today.

Cheers for the response guys, had the work done at stealth racing (due to their reputation on the forum), so seem abit surprised they would get the cam timing out. Is this an easy/expensive job to get sorted out? Do I need to go all the way back to Stealth or can I get my local VAG stealer to do it?

Hi there, had my VR6 for just over three months now and although I've read what seems like thousands of posts (boy do these cars need some serious care and attention or what!) have finally got round to making my first post. The car had done 105k when I bought it, and seeing it was on the original clutch thought this would be a natural place to start updating/modifying. Anyway to cut along story short while everything was coming out to do the clutch thought I would get the timing chains/guides, engine mounts (vibra-technics), head re-build, tappets and by reading past posts, all the other things many people advised I should do while it was all out. I also had one of the BMC filters fitted, which incidentally, I am very pleased with great sound but not to intrusive at lower revs. Now after all the work I had done I thought the car would be purring like a kitten, but since I got it back from the garage it seems to be worse than ever, don't know if it could be something to do with the increased air flow because of the air filter and generally cleaner head but the car is idling very poorly (cleaned ISV and has made no difference), and although there was a slight burbling/popping from the exhaust on release of the accelerator prior to taking it to the garage, since I got it back it is now burbling/popping as the accelerator is pressed (particularly at lower revs). Sorry for the long description but any help/advise would be much appreciated, oh and by the way would say an AMD or similar re-chip help the overall smoothness of the engine? Thanks :)