stormseeker 0 Posted February 15, 2005 Investigated the horrible scraping/grinding noise on RH lock at the weekend to find a whole load of play in the front o/s wheel bearing and seized wheel bolts (must've been getting quite warm :shock: :oops: ) So, took it into local garage. They managed to get the wheel bolts undone ( :-) ) and told me that the wheel bearing nut was just loose :shock: - they tightened it up, and they tell me there's now no play or noise on road test... Just a bit shocked on how it could've worked itself loose, and more scarily might it have fallen off :shock: ??? What sort of retaining arrangement on the nut is there (bear in mind I haven't seen one as I couldn't get the b'stard wheel off!) - castleated jobbie & split pin??? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Geo 0 Posted February 15, 2005 they are just a self locking nut, some cars have a split pin (mostly jap stuff) but not vws. sometimes they get loose it happened my golf during the summer. Not sure what causes it to be honest. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted February 15, 2005 Just a bit shocked on how it could've worked itself loose, and more scarily might it have fallen off :shock: ??? It wasn't torqued up correctly when last removed. It needs to be tightened to 200ft/lb! Has the car got evidence of a CV joint or bearing change on that axle? What sort of retaining arrangement on the nut is there (bear in mind I haven't seen one as I couldn't get the b'stard wheel off!) - castleated jobbie & split pin??? There is no mechanical nut restraint.....the correct torque is what stops it unwinding :wink: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stormseeker 0 Posted February 15, 2005 It wasn't torqued up correctly when last removed. It needs to be tightened to 200ft/lb! Has the car got evidence of a CV joint or bearing change on that axle? Haven't noticed anything, and in the last 2 years and one day since I bought the car it certainly hasn't been off.... :?: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted February 15, 2005 Hmmm, you've either just been unlucky and the victim of a rare occurence, or the previous owners had some work done down there in the past and perhaps didn't document it. Dunno for sure but resecure the driveshaft with a fresh nut and some thread lock. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
too hot 0 Posted February 15, 2005 Funny mine was the same when I bought it.Seems quite common for them to work loose,just make sure they are torqued up properly and that puts a stop to them loosening 8) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
borderair 0 Posted February 18, 2005 Dunno for sure but resecure the driveshaft with a fresh nut and some thread lock. When applying threadlock does the torque change on the nut? Vw do not specify threadlock on these nuts and liquid threadlock is a lubricant so will change the torque setting. Do not use any threadlocking compound unless you have to or it is specific requirement to the bolt / nut The original bolts are self locking with nylon insert so should not come loose if correctly torqued Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted February 18, 2005 The original bolts are self locking with nylon insert so should not come loose if correctly torqued What probably happened then was the original was re-used so worked loose... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevemac 0 Posted February 18, 2005 I usually tighten them as tight as I can with a 2ft bar.... :mrgreen: Never had any come loose.........yet ! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted February 18, 2005 The original bolts are self locking with nylon insert so should not come loose if correctly torqued Yep, which is what I said. If an aftermarket CV was fitted in the past, there's every chance the nut may not have a nylon insert. I've seen some CV kits supplied with non locking nuts. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
billinjah 0 Posted February 19, 2005 happened on my golf for the same reason the guys say no threadlock compound left on the threads get a new vag nut and be safe in the knowledge it wont happen again! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pbradley98 0 Posted September 28, 2012 Just been down to the garage to have mine checked, as was having a very similar grating noise on lock. Once up on the ramp found that there was excessive play in the RH front wheel and was also fixed by tightening the nut.... hence now finding this thread! Equally confused as to why this worked it's way loose, as the bearings were changed years ago and it's only been apparent for the last week or two. Will probably get a new nut just to be on the safe side in case the locking strip on the nut is loosing its locking ability! Having just had a 288 brake upgrade I presume that this wouldn't have been touched during that? Cheers Phil Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Human Joist 10 Posted September 28, 2012 (edited) Bearings are checked for play when you have a MOT but with older cars it sometimes pays to check everything over once purchased, as you never know what sort of person worked on it last. All the driveshaft bolts were loose on my VR when I bought it last year. Edited September 28, 2012 by Human Joist Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim Bowen 1 Posted September 28, 2012 I ordered new hub nuts for mine while i was rebuilding it, then found out the new bearings i bought came with the nuts, then also found out the cv joints also come with new hub nuts, so i seem to have hub nuts everywhere!! :lol: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stonejag 10 Posted September 28, 2012 If your garage is incompetent they might have put copper anti-seize on the threads - one I used did this and combined it with not tightening the bolts fully with the result that one wheel dropped off... Stone Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Human Joist 10 Posted September 28, 2012 If your garage is incompetent they might have put copper anti-seize on the threads - one I used did this and combined it with not tightening the bolts fully with the result that one wheel dropped off... Stone Not on your Raddo!!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted September 28, 2012 I ordered new hub nuts for mine while i was rebuilding it, then found out the new bearings i bought came with the nuts, then also found out the cv joints also come with new hub nuts, so i seem to have hub nuts everywhere!! :lol: Start an EC hub nut mountain? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RW1 0 Posted September 28, 2012 (edited) Upto Corrado Chassis 50KR000898 (built 1st week in September 1993), the “non” plus running gear hub nut is torque to 265NM (195 lb ft). The nut is self locking. No other special instructions, just a straight tightening. ---------------------------------------- How ever.................. From Corrado Chassis 50KR000898, the Plus Running Gear Hub Nut is self locking. Tighting as follows: (Doesn’t matter what engine size, the suspension hub is governed by a chassis break). - Fit the Hub Nut and tighten as possible by hand. No locking fluid/paste is necessary. - Wheel is not to be on the ground with car’s weight until fully tightened as below, otherwise hub bearing damage can occur. - With a second person in the driver’s position, press/apply the foot brake hard and hold each time a tightening of the Hub Nut has to occur below. - Tighten the Hub Nut to 200Nm (148 lb ft). Then loosen by one turn. - Pre-tighten to 50Nm (37 lb ft). - Now take one of the 12 peak points of the Hub Nut circumference and mark it (a). - Now move to one high point further round in the tightening direction of the Hub Nut’s 12 peak points and mark the bearing shell/hub lip (b). (This is the equivalent of 30° angle of turn on the Hub in the tightening direction of rotation.) - Turn and tighten the Hub Nut with socket tool so that the Nut mark (a) to align with the Hub lip (b). - That’s the tightening finished for the Plus Running Gear Hub. ---------------------------------------------------------- All VW supplied Hub replacements from Parts Dept.'s from late 1994 onwards have been supplied as Plus Running Gear standard for all Corrados 1988 - 1995 build. . Edited September 28, 2012 by RW1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pbradley98 0 Posted September 28, 2012 (edited) Ah, the advice from RW1 may be too late then as the nut was tightened with the weight of the car on it as a straight forward tightening, so may have damaged the bearing. Is it worth re-doing this or is the damage already done having driven 18 miles home this evening? PS - Garage that did the bearings know what they're doing, so wouldn't have been this... Edited September 28, 2012 by pbradley98 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
