Supercharged 2 Posted March 2, 2005 Ok, this has happened soon after i filled up with the last tank of Optimax which i'm half way thru, I assumed it was a bad tank as I had one before but i'm not not so sure as It's much worse and is getting really bad now... Bassically the Idle is awful and it sounds more like fuel starvation rather than an electrically induced misfire... Driving along on part throttle is feels very hesitent and when you accellerate the revs stutter upwards BUT if I accelerate hard and on full throttle it feels ok Most service items have been changed in the last year (all belts/fluids/filters along with the temp senders) - So have ignition leads, cap, arm and plugs... I don't think it's the fuel pump as top end it still there and it seems to pull fine when accellerating hard thru the gears... I've had a look around and all the vac pipes look ok etc what else do i need to check/test?? Lambda is still original.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
G60Jet 1 Posted March 2, 2005 Lambda is still original....my money is on that the lambda is not used at WOT Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
h100vw 0 Posted March 2, 2005 If it goes good on WOT then I would be pointing my finger at the lambda probe. At WOT the ECU ingores any input from the probe. The fact it's original is not an issue. They could feasibly outlast the car. I would certainly check the wiring before replacing it off hand. Gavin Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevemac 0 Posted March 2, 2005 Try cleaning up the earth connection next to the OS engine mount. Mine was rusty as fcuk. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted March 2, 2005 Cheers guys, Is that where the plug terminates Steve?? Can I prove anything by unplugging it, ie how will it run off WOT? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Banana Man 0 Posted March 2, 2005 I ve just had similar steve and it turned out to be the earth lead from battery to gearbox support bracket check that before going out and buying anything Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
G60 Bob 0 Posted March 3, 2005 Could someone list the earths that should be checked in order to solve this as i am leaving my car to a local garage next week and am suffering from similar problems? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted March 3, 2005 Supercharged, mines unplugged all the time at the advice of g-man.. works a treat! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted March 3, 2005 Supercharged, mines unplugged all the time at the advice of g-man.. works a treat! The Lambda?? - where do you unplug it, just down to the left of the TB over the engine mount??? Weird problem, now seems heat related as the first 15 mins todays journeys were fine then it went lumpy again - It got worse tonite and cut out on me completly, then wouldn't restart until it had cooled down 15 mins later, luckily I had just got to my mums house and had enough downhill momentum to park the car up ok and not leave it in the midle of the road - called Green Flag out, bloke had a look and we went thru a few things but nothing obvious, he suggested the Coil... Will try the lambda thing tomorrow and also bought the TB-ECU vac pipe as the dealer had some in stock and have cut it down to 100cm, I will fit at work tomorrow as I park in an underground carpark so I won't get snowed on like here! - the existing pipe doesn't look that great but I doubt it's the problem... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jim 2 Posted March 3, 2005 Sounds more like lambda then.. I remember when Tempests was starting to act up, his car was fine for the first 10 or so minutes whilst it was on the warm up cycle (where I believe it ignores signals from the lambda anyway.. can anyone confirm that?) and then as soon as it started to listen to the lambda it was doing all kinds of things - nearly stalling, belching black smoke out of the exhaust, sounding seriously unwell... amazing what a sensor can do to the car! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Posted March 3, 2005 Rear engine mount... nice plug sitting there! give it a big pull lol. Check your earth wire tho', thats why mine aint back on yet as needs hard wiring in after loom stapped away from plug! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted March 3, 2005 Cool, cheers guys, I'll be looking at it on saturday as i'm getting a lift into work tomorrow... I'll check the earths and maybe stick a couple of new cables in, Darren has told me what to check and it's most likely the Lambda... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted March 9, 2005 Well, I changed the TB to ECU pipe on saturday, old one was manky and only 95 cm long, started the car up again and it seemed ok and has been going fine over the w/e... 150 miles later and I thought it was sorted but then last night (heavy rain) it started running badly again on my way home I stopped the car and unplugged the Lambda, didn't seem to make any difference (and fromn what Darren said, it should run ok but rich?) as the lambda was unplugged and the engine was warm I also unplugged the BTS just to test and the revs went up to 1000 at Idle (they usually drop) - Is this how it should be without the Lambda?? Anyway, drove home but was still the same as it was, very lumpy and hesitant but got me back fine... Started the car for work this morning and again sounded lumpy, but went ok until I got about 2 miles down the road and it cut out at a juction (I knew from last time it wouldn't restart for a bit and I was right, 10 mins later it did start but cut out on me again, plugged the Lambda back in but same again, waited another 10 mins and it started so I set off and got to work about 30 mins later with it still running badly.... Not sure if the problem is heat related of not as the car will sometimes start from cold badly and it seems to be worse in the wet but then again this morning it was sunny and dry....Any ideas, now on a different tank of fuel so thats ruled out..?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Majik 0 Posted March 9, 2005 Sounds like its related to the distributor, just because the cap and rotor arm have been changed dont rule them out. What ignition leads were used, and are all of these seated properly? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted March 9, 2005 All look fine and are less than a year old, Blue Igniters and Beru cap and arm... I know what you mean tho.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted March 9, 2005 Funny how this has all come about since the ISV re-route. Your engine was rock solid prior to that and when I listened to it the other week with the reroute, it sounded like a bag of nails - no offense. Have you tried reverting the ISV back to standard to outrule that or maybe something you overlooked when doing the reroute? If not that could be the dizzy as Majik suggested. My old MK1 8V behaved similarly when the dizzy was worn out.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
olly elworthy 0 Posted March 9, 2005 cutting out then not starting for half hour sounds like it could be the hall sender in the distributor to me,, Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Banana Man 0 Posted March 9, 2005 I'm shaving similar probs with mine again it idls really bad unplug the lambda and still the same symptoms, with the lambda connected and unplug the bts idle drops as it should. The car is running incredibly rich thick bklack smoke is coming out the exhaust I ve tried just about everything I can think of to sort it but hassn't made the slightest difference. If you do find out whats causing your probs steve give me a shout as it might be relevant to me as well!! Fecking rado I'm begining to really hate it now!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted March 9, 2005 Sounds exactly the same Ant, had to get mine towed tonite, I was hoping you'd found a fix by now... I'll be looking at it again at the w/e.... Olly - cheers, Is it part of the dizzy or can you get the HS seperatly? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevemac 0 Posted March 10, 2005 Hall sender's part of the dizzy... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted March 11, 2005 No smoke coming out of your's Steve (Supercharged) when I followed you the other night....looked and sounded normal and didn't smell rich or anything. Fancy cutting out on the roundabout and then again 300 yards down the road...LOL! If that wasn't you I would have thought it was the slowest G60 in the world! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dale g60 0 Posted March 13, 2005 just wondering if u can help me im new on here it seems ive got the same problem wiv my g60 corrado as supercharged and banana man think ive tried nearly everything suggested on here to try wivout n e joy its doing my head in im desperate to get it back on the road its bin off the road for 4 months!! :( n e elp wud b great thanx Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted March 13, 2005 Wish I could, spent all weekend testing stuff! I'm buying some spark testers asap and a new VAC pipe for the throttle body Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Banana Man 0 Posted March 13, 2005 If you've got a multimeter the attatched below is very helpfull in testing the sensors to see if they've got continuity. you just have to take it one step at a time untill you've gone through the lot. Set the multimeter to audible so that if it hasn't got continuity you will be able to tell as it wont buzz and then you can trace the wire back to the breakage. All the sensors should have 5 volts going into them apart from the hall sender plug which should have 10v+ on 2 of the terminals ( middle and outer right iirc) Hope this helps a little! I will dig out all the info on what I tested before I found out the cause of my problems. It sounds like you 2 have either a sensor down or a wiring breakage somewhere. After all I went through to find out my fault I'm a little pissed that it was only the plugs which I ruled out as they were brand new. I trust you have both checked the grounds as the are the most common faults in my experience. Make sur the head to ecu grounds have a decent earth even if it means running a new cable from the negative terminal to the earths on the head. Also check the 2 earths from the negative terminal on the battery to the ecu as I have been told they are also common weak spots by a few people. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted March 13, 2005 Cheers Ant, used a jump lead from the battery Neg to various point and no difference... Where should the gearbox and engine earths be?? Hall sender has 10.94 V without engine running (ignition stage 2) Stuck new plugs in this morning - shat myself when I couldn't get number 1 out and thought it was crossthreaded!! - got it out with a bar and was relieved when i saw the thread on the old plug was fine and the new one went in fine after some cotton-bud cleaning and some wd40 on the thread... Again, spark seems fine on all 4 but after a while it starts to struggle, buying some HT/spark testers tomorrow. Would/could a jammed ISV cause the engine to cut out while moving?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
