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G60 owners ...please read this.

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Which would mean taking the gearbox off to use that tool then, sod that I will put the hub back on and use the brakes instead :lol:

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at the bottom of the gearbox between the oil pan &gearbox is a plat held on with 2 or 3 m6 bolts

or the top of the gearbox is a blanking plug best place for setting up the crankshaft to tdc

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coolrado- Check the pully location slot on the crank is undamaged! I refitted mine as it was drifting off it looked ok but alas it wasn't up to it this needs to be A1!!

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according to this thread the torque setting for the crank bolt is 90Nm + 1/4 turn, which is what i did 6 months ago when i changed the bolt but according to the manuals here http://volkswagen.msk.ru/engine/aaa_pg/ ... nkcase.pdf (page 3) it should be 90Nm + 1/2 turn , now my crank bolt has come loose im starting to believe the later is correct, if thats the case anyone who has changed the bolt using the directions on this thread should change the bolt again and use the correct setting to avoid a potenially expensive failure.

 

where did the 90Nm + 1/4 turn come from?

 

 

Right to clarify this a little more.

 

You need to buy a PG crank bolt and do the following:

 

The UK VW workshop manual for the G60 states, 90Nm + 1/4 turn further.

 

The following notes apply:

 

Counter hold with tool 3099 to loose and tighten (pictured).

Oil threads and shoulder.

The quarter turn can be done in several stages.

 

The really really really important bit in that note section is the oil threads and shoulder of bolt - a wet torque at 90Nm plus a quarter will provide a lot more force than a dry torque at 90Nm plus a quarter, without trying to remember lots of maths I have forgotten but being lazy and doing a quick web search a wet torque will give at least 50% more torque than a dry torque.

 

The 1/4 turn element also suggests that this is a stretch bolt, whilst the manual does not say replace it each time, I would recommend that you do for best practice - especially given the cost of a crank bolt vs an engine rebuild..

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The bolt I bought 6 months ago from vw wasn't pre oiled, and I didn't know it needed to be, that might explain why it came loose then :brickwall:

according to etka you DO have to replace it with a new one.

 

Also according to that diagram above for the special tool, it is described as the "crankshaft sprocket" hold tool, that would suggest to me (and from the look of the diagram) that it bolts to two of the bolt holes on the crankshaft sprocket and not the flywheel, if that is the case I will get one made, has anyone on here actually used that tool or seen it being used?

 

I also spoke to the snap-on guy this afternoon and he seems to think he can get that tool but he is coming back to me tomorrow with a price, guessing it won't be cheap though.

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coolrado- Check the pully location slot on the crank is undamaged! I refitted mine as it was drifting off it looked ok but alas it wasn't up to it this needs to be A1!!

There Is a bit of damage to the keyway (see pics in my post) viewtopic.php?f=1&t=100521

But it's not too bad and I will get it dressed flat and pin the crank and new pulley to make sure.

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Get some loctite studlock on there then torque it up,i guarantee you it wont come loose again.

Youll have problems getting it off though if you need to take it of again

 

if you take it off regualurly then use loctite 242.i swear by the stuff.sometimes comes on bolts like flywheel bolts

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this has just happened to me, well friday. i was in the car park at work letting my car warm up so was only on idle and something wnet "pop" i thought it may have been a boost pipe at first by the sound had a look around the engine bay everything look ok, checked the cam belt by taking the cover off everything still there. under closer inspection the crank pulley seems to have shirred off to one side. tghere was no clattering or banging so im hoping everyting is ok. its getting picked on montuesday so will see what happens.

 

wouldnt mid only changed the cambelt and put the new bolt in less than 3 months ago tto avoid this happening so a liltte bit annoiyed!

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the car got picked up yesterday so my mate is gonna look in to it and see how bad it is.

 

the thing i need to know is, is the suggested replacement non strech bolt a owner suggestion or a VW recall/replacment part. as the bolt is only a few months old i thought about trying it on warrenty but if its not the right bolt for my engine then ive prob got no chance.

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Got a new crank pulley, as the key way was a bit worn, and new crank bolt both put on, timed up, turned over by hand no probs,started up and runs bob on, no misfires, noise or any other bad things. Also had it compression tested and all cylinders are even readings! Thank fook for that, think I've been really lucky on this ocassion.

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I know this has been brought up in the past but this happened to a customer of mine today whist on idle outside the workshop...

luckly i fixed it for him woth no problems but it could of quite easilly become a very expensive bolt had he been doing 80 on the motorway when it decided to break...

Please replace your crank bolts with one from a dx engine any problems i will supply and fit for cost just so this dosent happen outside our workshop again..

 

Can you guys supply this bolt? Been to the stealers today and they want a bloody vin number before they will order anything, what a waste of life they are. Need two of these, any help appreciated. And yes, before anyone asks, I did supply the part numbers, just no interest found. Thanks

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If anyone struggles to source this part because they have an incompetent VW dealership, feel free to PM me. I'm happy to order any parts like this and supply (at your cost obviously for the postage) as my local VW dealership is tame and friendly :)

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Excuse my ignorance, but is this a 'fix on the driveway' thing or a bit more substantial? I have a g60 but not sure whether this has been done or not, not in my ownership anyway.

Thanks.

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^^ try another dealer , part number should be plenty

 

Only dealer local to me mate and they are 15 miles away, they suck, guess I'm always going to struggle with that poor staff involved.

 

 

If anyone struggles to source this part because they have an incompetent VW dealership, feel free to PM me. I'm happy to order any parts like this and supply (at your cost obviously for the postage) as my local VW dealership is tame and friendly :)

 

Pm on its way, big thanks

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Hm.. my bloke is on holiday. I'll call up a bit later and try order the bits directly..

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Excuse my ignorance, but is this a 'fix on the driveway' thing or a bit more substantial? I have a g60 but not sure whether this has been done or not, not in my ownership anyway.

Thanks.

 

yeah its doable at home , the orig bolt should be very tight so you will need a good quality socket and breaker bar that wont snap off with a bit of abuse , possibly need a length of tube over the bar to increase the leverage

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Just a quickie, don't really have any mechanical knowledge but I'm a 'have a go hero'. I'm currently stripping, painting and rebuilding my engine on my coffee table, I've just changed the cambelt today and ordered the bolt/washer from vw which will be ready for pickup tomorrow.

 

Is there a 'how to' guide for this? I know which bolt needs replacing and I know the charger belt pulley needs removing but do I need to remove the cambelt when attempting this? Should I wait until engine is fitted to try and prevent it turning the engine? Any other tips?

 

Cheers, JT

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Would you guys recommend getting a new washer as well as the bolt? Or would it be ok to reuse the washer? Can't seem to find the bleeding thing at any supplier!

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If you go for a standard PG engine bolt you don't need a washer. The newer bolts from Vw are fine to use rather than going for the mk1 Gti engine bolt.

 

Neil.

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Thanks Neil.

 

The part number for the bolt I have is N 040 106 4

 

Here is what it looks like:

 

29sGA

 

Can you tell which one that is and if I need a washer for it?

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