stormseeker 0 Posted April 15, 2005 So far I've broken an electric h4rd b4stard impact driver, a short 1/2 inch drive extension bar and my locking wheel nut key! To say I'm pi55ed off is a slight understatement! Hope I don't get a puncture or I'm scuppered until the new wheel lock key arrives..... :-( :-( Needless to say, copious amounts of copper grease have gone on to all the ones I've actually been able to remove... TW4TS! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
h100vw 0 Posted April 15, 2005 It's not about the grease but how tight they were done up. I know you impact gun didn't work but I have an 18V snapon one that only just undid a wheel last week that was put on and torqued correctly. Did the gun do the adapter or did you break it manually? I have a some looking wheel nut removers at home. They have internal LH threads and should undo that last bolt if needed. Whereabouts are you in the northwest? Maybe I can help you? You don't want to bust another adapter. gavin Gavin Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stormseeker 0 Posted April 15, 2005 It's not about the grease but how tight they were done up. I know you impact gun didn't work but I have an 18V snapon one that only just undid a wheel last week that was put on and torqued correctly. Did the gun do the adapter or did you break it manually? I have a some looking wheel nut removers at home. They have internal LH threads and should undo that last bolt if needed. Whereabouts are you in the northwest? Maybe I can help you? You don't want to bust another adapter. gavin Gavin Cheers Gavin. No, TBH the electric impact driver was a cheap crappy one that bust itself! It only tickled the bolts before self destructing :-) It was the traditional big bar and brute force that saw to the extension bar and wheel lock key ;-) I've ordered another wheel-lock key, so I'll give that last one another go when it arrives. I think the key gave in beacause I was having to use the 12" extension bar on the torque wrench and it's difficult to stop in slipping out whilst applying 1000's lb/ft of heave! I'm in Southport (I spotted your Passat at the Formby squirrel reserve a few months ago ;-) )... thanks for the offer I'll let you know how I get on. Chris. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
theRuler 0 Posted April 15, 2005 if you brakes are getting hot, it can make the bolts stick. often when the discs are worn / warped you get extra heat Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
h100vw 0 Posted April 15, 2005 Everyone please ingore the comment about squirrels :mrgreen: I have never been there :oops: It must have been an imposter Chris, Try sticking that duff key on the bolt and whack it hard with a big hammer. The shock may do some good. A lot of steady pressure and a whack may also be the way to go when you get the new key. Let me know if I can help out in the future though. Gavin Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stormseeker 0 Posted April 15, 2005 Cheers Gavin. I won't mention that I saw you in the "Blue Oyster" later that night then? :wink: :oops: :lol: I think large applications of brute force and hammers and whacking and more brute force are required.... :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Scruffythefirst 0 Posted April 15, 2005 I had the same problem with Dinkus' VR when he first got it. Broke 2 adaptors and a cheap socket. Went out and bought a set of 1/2" drive impact sockets and used my 36" breaker bar and they came out eventually. Copperslip is essential IMHO Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted April 15, 2005 Copperslip is essential IMHO Indeed it is....but no bugger uses it and wonders why they can't get their wheel bolts out when it comes to tyre change time :roll: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stormseeker 0 Posted April 15, 2005 I actually fitted these locking wheel bolts to the car myself when I first got it - so I know they were copper-greased up - I blame the tyre change monkey's over zealous airgun, and the intervening 14 months-ish :oops: Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Scruffythefirst 0 Posted April 15, 2005 I blame the tyre change monkey's over zealous airgun, and the intervening 14 months-ish Embarassed I'd take my torque wrench with me if I gave a shit about my cavalier - the dax still doesnt have wheels.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Baz2004 0 Posted April 15, 2005 I found a truck/tractor torque wrench usually does the job, would need to have some weight behind it but no chance of it breaking doing the job. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris M 0 Posted April 15, 2005 hi, some might already know this but i thought i'd share anyway. you need to be carefull with your alloys when using a grease or lubicant on your wheel bolts, because the torque needed is reduced. torque is twisting force and the bolt aplies pressure in a horisontal direction if you know what i mean. the reduction in torque goes like this:- - No lube, steel 0% - Plated and cleaned 34% decrease - SAE 20 oil 38% - SAE 40 oil 41% - Plated and SAE 30 45% - White grease 45% - Dry moly film 52% - Graphite and oil 55% Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted April 15, 2005 Copper grease on bolts + 100Nm torquing has served me well for 14 years.... the above info, whilst probably true is entering into the realms of silliness. If torquing up the wheel bolts was as critical as that would imply, you'd get more in the boot toolkit than just a simple wrench...which most people jump on when doing up the bolts. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chris M 0 Posted April 15, 2005 most people don't apply copper grease and most tyre fitters wouldn't know a torque wrench if it hit them in the face or that there impact gun has more than one setting. its just worth thinking about if you apply the same ft/lb's to a plated greased bolt you are you are applying 2x the holding down force of the same ft/lb's on a dry old bolt and are running the risk of cracking the alloy bolt seat. the info is there take it or leave it Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted April 15, 2005 Surely the whole idea of a torque wrench is it clicks when the requested torque has been applied, regardless of what's on the bolt threads? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
coolrado 0 Posted April 15, 2005 i think the quoted tourqe for the wheel bolts takes the copper grease into account as most workshop manuals advise to use it and quote the correct torque Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DEL VR6 0 Posted April 15, 2005 another tip, (although it might be late now) When you've got a bolt that just wont undo, try tightening it a little first. it really then should be easier to undo. This sounds ludacris i know, cos you think that you are making it tighter and therefore harder for yourself, but in actual fact, you are breaking the jammed threads, and it will then undo quite easily. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Scruffythefirst 0 Posted April 15, 2005 Surely the whole idea of a torque wrench is it clicks when the requested torque has been applied, regardless of what's on the bolt threads? Thats correct kev, but the actuall clamping force is increased with lubricant as more of the torque is being used to pull the thread in and not in the turning action. As the bolt tightens the threads exert more force on the grooves which resists the turning. If the threads are cruddy you've already got a higher resistance to turning which will increase more quickly with load than a clean thread would. However, I'm with you - copperslip and 100nm. Don't forget that a steel stud and ally nut will corrode together which is why you NEED the copperslip Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted April 17, 2005 most tyre fitters wouldn't know a torque wrench if it hit them in the face Thats what I don't get - Halfords do a good quality wrench for £50, why don't most tyre places use them?? I know impact guns are quicker but I think most enthusiasts would appreciate the extra care of doing it manually Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chrisw 0 Posted April 18, 2005 Hi, I lost the key to the wheel bolts on my new corrado about 2 weeks ago. The lost key looked the same as in your picture. A 14mm 12 point socket hammered onto the stub inside perfectly and would not come off after the bolts were removed (even with a vice/punch/lumphammer). I don't think you could have welded them on any stronger, so if you are desperate or the bolts are now rounded, 4x14mm sockets (£2 each at halfords) and a good breaker bar should do the trick. Took about 30 mins for the first one, worrying about hammering my wheels, 30 secs for the last one. Chris W (anyone want to buy some 1/2 inch drive chrome-vanadium wheel bolts :lol: ) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted April 18, 2005 Thats what I don't get - Halfords do a good quality wrench for £50, They're currently do some seriously good 'Professional' ones, which are guaranteed for life. Curiously the huge one is £50 and the small one is also £50! Guess who had to buy two? One for the bearing caps (20Nm and one for the cam sprockets, 100Nm). My previous Halfords wrench (not a professional) just gave up the ghost last week after 10 years of hard use.....so they're good tools. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Scruffythefirst 0 Posted April 18, 2005 They're currently do some seriously good 'Professional' ones, which are guaranteed for life. They're pretty good about returning broken ones too. Not the most accurate torque wrenches in the world but close enough to build an engine with.... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted April 18, 2005 Ooh, you got some new toolage Kev! - I also noticed that they've got the big socket set at £99 again. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites