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Yandards' 16VG60 - Running Report 23 Jul 15

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Cracking footage and I think you have just persuaded me to purchase one :clap: :clap:

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Thats some really good footage, the only thing I would be looking to do would be to try and make it possible to be able shield the mic from the windnoise but at the same time try and capture the engine noise if at all possible.

 

Just need to sort out a mic in the engine bay at the back somewhere and disable the sound from the camera no?[/quote:1m78dztx]

 

Nah just shove some foam over the microphone hole in the case.

 

I have 2 and ideally would like another one, that way I can mount the one at the front, one at the back near the exhaust and one looking out along the drivershaft towards the front suspension. You could then edit all those video sources to make a pretty cool video.

 

For the cost these really are superb, £20 including an 8GB card for the level of quality can't be beaten.

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There is an interesting site about these cameras here: http://www.chucklohr.com/808/. It includes information on how to post-process the videos to remove the date stamp and the news that the lead content of the plastic clam case contains 1500+ ppm of lead (exceeding US Consumer Product requirements for children under 12) - so don't eat the case :). Also suggests that with a battery life of 1 hour and a FAT32 file size limitation of 4GB, a 4GB microSD card is good enough.

 

Charged mine using a cable from a PC USB port, but the camera yellow LED did not go out, even after over 3 hours charging. Anyone else had this?

 

Yeah didnt go out on mine either pal

 

If you read this link part way down the SXOC posters thread there is a reset procedure 8)

 

Edit: From SXOC thread

'Q: it doesn’t work help!!

A: it will be you don’t have a memory card in the camera or you need to plug the camera into a computer for a min 3 hours, the orange light will illuminate during this. of the orange light is still on get a pin (pencil is too big, also a stylus for a touch screen phone is too big, just get a pin, or paper clip that works, but a thin one) and press the reset button on the side.'

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Got loads done over the weekend, started prepping the wheels for swapping, the sebrings are now on the nugget and this car will be wearing the G60 BBSs shortly.

 

Bleed the brakes again as they were pretty shocking, got a good load of air from the right rear corner and nothing from anywhere else so hopefully thats sorted it. Got the front discs off to clean them up, although they are pretty good really.

 

Endulged in some OEM+ness with some mk 3 Golf parts, first up it was some cooling duct 'ears' for the front brake calipers, (6Q0 615 193 and 6Q0 615 194) these bits of plastic are a whopping £2.50ish and they fit quite well.

 

Next up was some plastic covers for the leading edge of the wishbones, these should reduce the amount of debris on top of the wishbone assembly as well as blocking some of the spray and stones flicked onto the driveshaft. They fit in the 3 holes already in the wishbone with no dramas although I need to source the plastic locking pegs (N 038 549 1 x 6 around £1.50 the lot) as I have used nuts and bolts for now. The plastic covers are 1H0 615 447 01C and 1H0 615 448 01C and will set you back about £7 for the pair. No good for the VR boys are you use different wishbones..

 

And yes I know my brake caliper is minging, overhaul due in the winter layup period and the colour will go back to OEM style gold finish as well.

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Little update.

 

Was wiring in the new ECU but decided that I just didn't have enough time to get it in and mapped properly for BVF.

 

So I have wired in the wideband controller mainly as a confidence boost that the system is working ok, getting about lambda during warm-up (could do with a touch more revs as it is struggling) and then it sits at about .95 lambda at cruising speed so that is about right with over-run cutoff and WOT enrichment working too.

 

I do know I have a leaking injector out of the four but only when warm; when cold the fuel pump primes as it should but once up to temp if you short out the rad fan run-on switch to run the fan (and the pump) then the fuel pump continues to run until the relay fails the after run-on.

 

This could also be the fuel pump run on pressure switch not working but I suspect it's more likely to be a dodgy injector, a quick check out should sort it ok and I have some spares I can fit.

 

Filled up for the 1st time today stuck 43 litres in and had cover 346 miles at various throttle settings with mixed urban and country roads, so given the engine is still pretty tight I am more than happy with those numbers.

 

Got some minor adjustments to make in the engine bay prior to BVF just as finishing touches, bracket for ISV, mount LC-1 wideband controller properly and fit a 'proper' VAG plug to the radiator thermo switch and I will do an oil and filter change before heading down the road as well.

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Well done mate - look forward to seeing...

 

JMR's one is back on the road too - well kind of...

 

He was at Inters today although it was trailered as he has a few bits to finish after the crank pulley keyway gave way while it was being mapped so it's basically just had a top end rebuilt.

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So, Yan. What's the deal mate :( Are you back home now?

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So, Yan. What's the deal mate :( Are you back home now?

 

Yeah back in one piece mate.

 

Not sure about what the long term options are as I said in the BVF thread.

 

I do know that I want to go ABF in the longer term but wasn't planning on it this soon. It would be good to get this block up and running first given the time and effort so far and that would allow me to consider the ABF planning at a slower pace rather than have to rush to install it.

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Stick with it Yan, at least get it running before you rip it out as the resale value will be much better. Shame you're having these issues, but its not exactly a standard setup is it? I heartily admire the work gone in so far.

 

Liking the Blackadder reference too. :salute:

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shiiit thats really b ad that.. bad luck dude :( hope you donit give up on it! goin back thru you have put some time effort and money into it!

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I'm sure you are glad to have been able to get it back home with you.

Good luck with which ever way you decide to go with it.

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Ah sheeet. Bad luck. I know how you feel, best thing to do is get straight back in there and get on with it. You'll just sit and stew otherwise.

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Yan - can't help thinking this isn't another case of GSF selling the wrong single piece 1.1 / 1.3 bearings for the KR like so many dead engines on CGTI?? - GVK's epic valver rebuild being one of them!

 

http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=142342

 

http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=189047

 

http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=86106

 

http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=59794

 

http://www.clubgti.com/forum/showthread.php?t=189393

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Yan - can't help thinking this isn't another case of GSF selling the wrong single piece 1.1 / 1.3 bearings for the KR like so many dead engines on CGTI?? - GVK's epic valver rebuild being one of them!

shirley Yan wouldn't use GSF crank bearings :shock:

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So, Yan. What's the deal mate :( Are you back home now?

 

Yeah back in one piece mate.

 

Not sure about what the long term options are as I said in the BVF thread.

 

I do know that I want to go ABF in the longer term but wasn't planning on it this soon. It would be good to get this block up and running first given the time and effort so far and that would allow me to consider the ABF planning at a slower pace rather than have to rush to install it.

 

Hang on hang on! wait!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Did you find the screw that went astray?!

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Yan - can't help thinking this isn't another case of GSF selling the wrong single piece 1.1 / 1.3 bearings for the KR like so many dead engines on CGTI?? - GVK's epic valver rebuild being one of them!

shirley Yan wouldn't use GSF crank bearings :shock:

 

Your right I wouldn't; genuine bits all the way. That and I also wouldn't use KR bearings, I used G60 ones..

 

Kris, I did find the bolt ok although it involved a trip to the 1 pound tool store for a magnetic grabber.

 

I had a dig around the web last night and with some careful ordering from the US I can bring the bearing costs way down, this seals the deal for me really as a £500 bill is now closer to £300.

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Yan - can't help thinking this isn't another case of GSF selling the wrong single piece 1.1 / 1.3 bearings for the KR like so many dead engines on CGTI?? - GVK's epic valver rebuild being one of them!

shirley Yan wouldn't use GSF crank bearings :shock:

 

Your right I wouldn't; genuine bits all the way. That and I also wouldn't use KR bearings, I used G60 ones..

 

Kris, I did find the bolt ok although it involved a trip to the 1 pound tool store for a magnetic grabber.

 

I had a dig around the web last night and with some careful ordering from the US I can bring the bearing costs way down, this seals the deal for me really as a £500 bill is now closer to £300.

 

do it man... It was such a mean looking machine and you've popped so many hours into her its such a same not to see her running with that engine. By the way, Im sorry for being a little stressy over getting back an all, you kinda get that when your self employed. I totally understand and sorry for being pushy about getting back. As it happens I met a lovely lady on the aeroplane from BVF so i wasn't bored! :camp:

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Makes sense to get it back on the road IMHO Yan... then begin work on an ABF as and when time and funds allow?

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Makes sense to get it back on the road IMHO Yan... then begin work on an ABF as and when time and funds allow?

:thumb right: :thumbleft:

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Makes sense to get it back on the road IMHO Yan... then begin work on an ABF as and when time and funds allow?

 

Yeah that's my thinking right now Jim, I think a couple of weekends worth should sort it out and the old comp test numbers need to be up around the 11-12 bar mark to give me a properly functioning engine. It's a shame the bearings are gone as that would have taken a lot less work to sort out :(.

 

On the brighter side it did feel a little pokier with extra 1/2 bar that the DG honing provided so another 3 bar should make all the difference :)

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At least the low compression has helped to explain the slightly less than impressive performance you were experiencing. Should be a different beast once you sort these problems out :)

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