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Rpmayne

Rear spoiler activation signal

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My rear spoiler hasn't worked automatically for some time, only goes up and down via the manual switch. I've checked the blue wire isn't connected and have swapped the control relay.

 

Where does the signal actually come from? Just thinking that I changed the ECU for a cheap golf VR6 one. If the signal comes from there then maybe the signal isn't being produced at all.

 

Thought these ECU's would be the same apart from the map. I've changed that for a BBR chip and its running fine otherwise.

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I would trace the blue/white wire back and see where it ends up. If it dissapears into the ECU loom then yep, you've answered your own question.

 

You could tap in the gearbox sender wire and feed a fly lead through to the dash as a temporary measure just to see if the spolier control box works.

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Mine stopped working automatically when I changed the stereo, I'm assuming the speed sensitive circuit goes round there somewhere from when the original stereo was speed sensitive, the guy had done a real hack job so I rewired it all but couldn't work out what a spare brown wire was for so left it off.

 

Reconnected it and all works great :cool:

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The spoiler control signal actually comes out of the ins cluster. The electronics in there count the pulses from the gearbox sender and convert it to an analogue VSS signal. This is sent out to the spoiler control box and the Stereo loom/connector (for head units that can do the speed sensitive volume stuff)

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Craigs8vgti, if you take the fuse board cover off, the relay is sitting on the inside of the dash just above the opening. Think that you just push it up to slide it off the fixings.

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Ive found a relay on top of the fuses box but the spoiler still goes up and down on the mamual switch is this right or im i losing the plot at the min ive unplug the spoiler in the boot for now to stop it from going up n down

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Kinda off topic but any1 know how to adjust at what speed it comes up at?

Would like it to come up at 70 minimum does my head in putting it down all the time, as c looks better with it down......

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IHIG60, think i found a page on changing the resistor value for different activation speeds on the Vortex forum.

 

Quick question, how do you remove the circuit board from the clocks case? Tried pushing the clips back but it feels like something is holding it. Do you need to remove the needles and surrounds to get at some more screws? If so, how do you do that? Don't want the clocks to look like it's been tampered with by damaging something.

 

Thanks.

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Rpmayne, have you got 2 LCDs or just one?

 

On the clocks with 2 LCDs you simply grab the outside of the dials and PULL them straight away from the circuit board... sounds odd, but trust me, they're on pins which just slide out from the circuit board. Do all 3 and then you'll see some screws which hold the circuit onto the casing... undo them, stick a small screwdriver down the sides of the multiplug on the back of the unit and unhook the clips around the side of the circuit at the same time... sounds complicated, but once you see what I mean, it's dead simple... 8)

 

I have no idea how you do that on a single LCD dash setup though... :|

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I have this same problem. Reading thru the wiring diagrams, there appears to be a junction block somewhere behind the fusebox that takes the wire from the ins cluster and then spurs it off to the stereo and spoiler controller. I'm on my 2nd set off dials (admittedly 2nd hand) and that didn't solve it, I took the stereo out, that didn't solve it, on my 3rd spoiler relay(2nd hand) that didn't solve it got a brand new gearbox sensor.. altho logic dictates if that didn't work then the speedo wouldn't work. Think I'm gonna take the whole dash out and trace all the wires and meter them out. But please lemme know how you get on!!!

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