Coolant/oil temp issues - ALL SORTED!

[gradeAfailure 0]

That was actually my next thought...! Though I was speaking to g-man at No-Rice about fitting a MK1 Golf GTi sandwich plate and air-oil cooler, so this may have to be investigated, along with a Neuspeed stat to keep the water temp down a bit too...

[Walesy 0]

yeah...but like you said before...it would be nice to know why it was running at 1 temp for the first 100k or whatever....and now its started to run hotter before, fitting oil coolers etc.....

[Henny 0]

corradowales, 'cos the oil cooler has finally become blocked enough to make it innefficient? Think about how much liquid (both oil and coolant) has been pumped through that oil cooler over the 100K miles it's been fitted to that engine...

[Walesy 0]

yeah...sorry should have put it differently....

 

it would be nice to know why it was running at 1 temp for 100k or whatever....and now its started to run hotter, before fitting DIFFERENT oil coolers....as Henny said..i'd try the standard one first.....before trying the mk1 gti thingamyjig???....

[Henny 0]

ah, gotcha... 8)

 

Personally, I'd just dump the water-oil cooler and throw it in the bin and fit a Mocal one instead... Much better cooling... 8)

[Walesy 0]

[gradeAfailure 0]

So what's the deal with ditching the water/oil cooler then - as in, how to go about it? g-man said to use the MK1 GTi sandwich plate as it has the two oil lines coming off it to go to a air/oil cooler (Mocal or otherwise), but what to do about the coolant hoses that normally go to the factory oil cooler...?

[Supercharged 2]

Nah, he meant the MK1 pipes that don't have the extra outlet to the OE heat exchanger, The sandwhich plate is aftermarket and goes in place of the heat exchanger and feeds off to the remote cooler (Get one with a thermostat in it)

[gradeAfailure 0]

Ah, right... :) :thumbleft:

[gradeAfailure 0]

Right, have decided to simply replace the factory oil cooler with a new one, and stick in a Neuspeed stat to keep the coolant temp down (which hopefully will arrive today 'cos I'm doing the work tomorrow afternoon...

 

So: any advice on changing the cooler? Is it just the hex key bolt on top of the mounting that holds it on, or is it secured differently? Oh, and anyone know where the coolant temp sender for the gauge is 'cos I'm replacing that as well...

 

Ta muchly! :)

[Walesy 0]

cool...will be interested to see if it works......need to get my temp down too!

 

by the way....will you taste this cake before i eat it?....im not sure if it's poisoned???

[gradeAfailure 0]

Errrrr, anyone...?

[RW1 0]

What's the coolant mix ratio your putting in each time?

[gradeAfailure 0]

2:1 water to coolant...

 

I have been searching a bit and it seems like I need a 30mm socket to undo the securing nut for the cooler - can anyone confirm/deny this?

[Baz2004 0]

30mm socket will do the job be careful if you don’t have the oil filter drained you’ll get your shoes painted a dirty shade of brown!

 

The oil temp sender is at the back of the mounting the switch at the front is the pressure switch as far as i remember.

 

Might be worth going with a more concentrated ratio on the coolant 1:1 perhaps esp if your having heat problems.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

50/50 coolant to water is not needed in the British Isles and too much Glycol actually reduces the water's ability to absorb heat. 60 water, 40 G12 is the max.....I personally run 70 water, 30 G12 and my temps are never an issue....and that ratio is good for -15 or something, which is plenty for this country.

[RW1 0]

Yep, agree with Kevhaywire which why I asked. Tend to find all VW's run hotter with a 50%/50% mix.

 

70/30..... south of Watford Gap only!

 

Take a look at the auxiliary water pump. May be worth while taking it off and check it's actually pumping.

[Supercharged 2]

Don't think the 8v's have an auxiliary pump...

[Walesy 0]

i think i might go for another coolant change paying more attension to the mix....new thermo from the stealers....and a new water pump.....gotta get it down again somehow.

[gradeAfailure 0]

Well, D-Day is tomorrow (Neuspeed stat needed a signature so had to get it from the sorting office, bah), so will let you all know what the outcome is!

[Baz2004 0]

Must be the grade of coolant Im using, I was putting in a good concentrated mix in my valver when i had head trouble, it seemed to keep things a tad cooler, although I was topping it up every week or so.

 

I also found replacing the oil cooler on my valver helped get the oil temp back under 120. Don’t know if this would be the same in the 8V as it seemed to be a valver issue.

[gradeAfailure 0]

Well, after much cursing today (and it will continue tomorrow), I can confirm that the nut holding my oil cooler on was NOT 30mm, but 27mm...

 

And it's leaking at the coolant outlets on the new cooler, so I'm gonna have to replace the spring-type hose clamps with worm-drive ones before I can report back as to whether the problem is solved...

 

Damnit, I just want to enjoy my car, not p1ss about fixing it all the damn time...

[Walesy 0]

argghhh...if its not one thing its another....hope you get it sorted without too much more cursing!

[gradeAfailure 0]

WOOOOOOOOO-HOOOOOOOOOOOOOO! :cheers:

 

She is fixed!

 

New Parts:

New standard oil cooler

New oil temp switch

Neuspeed 180deg stat (that's 80deg C to you)

Full coolant flush

Oil change

 

Temps are now:

Motorway: Coolant - 80-85, Oil - 110-112

Town: Coolant - 85-95 dependant on traffic, Oil - around 106

 

It could just have been something as simple as the oil temp switch on it's own, but I'm not too fussed to be honest!

 

Thank-you to all of you who made suggestions and offered sympathy - it has been very appreciated!

 

Right, now to fix the rest of the stuff that doesn't work...! :lol:

[Walesy 0]

thats awsome news gradeAfailure, ...i'll do exactly the same to mine and keep my fingers crossed that it works!.

 

Good news though!..... :D