blackcat 0 Posted June 1, 2005 Before anyone locks this, I have done a search and cannot find the answers I'm looking for. :wink: My passenger side rear bearings need replacing. First of all, if I do one side should I do the other too? Second, which haynes manual has the correct instructions (golf or passat)? And thirdly, is there any special tools that I need before starting and does anyone have any tips based on past experiences? Thanks :D Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Supercharged 2 Posted June 1, 2005 Best to do both really and also to replace the brake discs at the same time... No special tools really altho you may need the caliper windback tool if you are replacing the discs /pads and also allen sockets to get the caliper bolts off with. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
blackcat 0 Posted June 1, 2005 If I replace the discs I need to replace the pads too don't I? I don't really want to have to replace discs and pads as they are fine and I don't have much money right now :( Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
corradophil 3 Posted June 1, 2005 Best to do both really and also to replace the brake discs at the same time... No special tools really altho you may need the caliper windback tool if you are replacing the discs /pads and also allen sockets to get the caliper bolts off with. That is the costly/nice way to do it, so you don't have to worry for a long time in the future. If your rear discs are in good condition, you can remove the bearings and put new ones in. A lot of care must be taken when pressing the outer races in. You must not scratch them at all, or chances are you will be replacing them again soon. If you are sure only one bearing has gone, I would replace that one. They are only about £5 from gsf or Euro. Be very careful to adjust the bearing correctly. What Haynes manual do you have, most watercooled vws untill recently had the same rear wheel bearings. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
blackcat 0 Posted June 1, 2005 I don't mind replacing both sides bearings, it's just the discs and pads I don't want to do if I can avoid it. I have a golf haynes but some things are different I've noticed Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Yandards 0 Posted June 1, 2005 Off the top of my head you tighten the rear stub axle nut up until you can no longer move the thrust washer around using a screwdriver blade sat against the washer and a finger on the shaft of the screwdriver. I just drifted my rear bearings in using a large socket and a hammer - just make sure you keep it square in the hole. Think you will need about an 35mm socket to do this. Easiest way if you don't have one would be to take out the old bearing and go to Halfrauds and get one that is just a little bit smaller than the outer race. If you just swap the bearing over and not the discs and pads then as Phil said then you will need to drift out the old bearings as well - a large flat blade screwdriver will do just fine. Depending where you get your bearing from you will need some grease too! Make sure you use rubber gloves to handle the bearing as contact with skin can cause corrosion to occur and hence new bearing required. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
corradophil 3 Posted June 1, 2005 If its a Mk1 or Mk2 manual it will be correct for your car. To be honest I would just replace the one that needs replacing. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roger Blassberg 0 Posted June 1, 2005 The Haynes manual for a Golf will do, so long as it covers rear disc braked GTi models (Mk2 and newer). To drive the outer tracks of the inner and outer bearings out of the hub/disc, you can use an old screwdriver and a hammer if you don't have the right puller - there are slots in the hub so that you can get it started. Its a laborious and dirty task, (old grease, brake dust, scaly rust). The outer tracks for the new pair of bearings then have to be pressed or tapped into the hub bore using a suitable sized drift, like a big socket; smear some new grease into the hub bore to make it a bit easier. Getting the caliper carrier off will probably be fun and games as the socket-headed bolts will be tight; give then a good soak with PlusGas a few days beforehand. You need an 8mm Allen key for your socket set ideally, and give it a good whack into the bolt head to seat it fully home before turning it. You will need a long extension handle It's best to replace both sides (ie both pairs), but not the end of the world if you only do one. Make sure that you don't overtighten the bearing nut or you will destroy all your good work in no time flat. Whilst you are at it, check that the sliding guide pins in the carrier are free to move and that the bellows-type dust seals are properly located at both ends - it is a good idea to pull the pins out and clean them before re-greasing and relocating them. If you do need to reset the caliper piston to clear the pads, you will need to get hold of the wind-back tool - the piston will not just push in without being rotated at the same time. Good luck Best wishes RB Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
blackcat 0 Posted June 1, 2005 It's the golf haynes that we had for the mk2 gti so it'll be fine. Thanks guys, hopefully I'll get it sorted at the weekend. :D EDIT: are noisy bearings an MOT failure? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dazzyvr6 0 Posted June 1, 2005 it depends how noisy they are,and for the price i would change the both sides Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roger Blassberg 0 Posted June 1, 2005 EDIT: are noisy bearings an MOT failure? Certainly loose bearings are; for your own peace of mind, it's better to change noisy ones. Best wishes RB Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
