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bigpants baby

vag alarm

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on wifeys 95 c vr been told by the insurance co that it needs cat 1 ala/imob,it has a std vag alarm/imob which would be classed as a cat1 if the alarm came on when turning off the ign key (auto arming)

At the mo it will only arm the alarm etc if pressing keyfob.

I have the paperwork that came with this alarm its saying about auto arming(if connected that way?)

So me thinks its just needs connecting up a different way on the ign.

Any ideas??

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Two standard VAG alarms for 1995 C - Scorpion 5000 or Conlog 900.

 

Normally, auto arming is the immobiliser bit if you have opened the doors or boot, ie. pin switches. Does that after about 2 mins if you haven't started the engine/switch the ignition on. Indications should show on the dash LED(s)

 

If you don't open the doors etc, then after the same period, the alarm re-arms fully. Was a Cat 1 requirement at the time. It assumes that you've gone somewhere and forgotten to set the alarm again.

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My alarm is a conlog, and it's bloody annoying!

 

It automatically locks the car after about 30secs. Very annoying if I need to have the bonnet open - It means I also need to have a door/boot open to avoid the car locking and setting the alarm off.. :roll:

 

Didn't used to lock itself like this. Only started when my car battery went flat last year :scratch:

Cant figure out how the hell to stop it arming after 30secs now. I've got a copy of the manual (kindly sent from VR6Storm) but it doesnt seem to mention how to disable it

 

Hope I havent hijacked your thread bigpants baby :)

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joebloggsvr69

 

I have the same 900. Know the fob. Reason I ask is cos hust at the end of Storm sales, the Conlog 950 951 alarm became available and that one is more complex and different.

 

Doesn't lock the doors automatically as you describe unless the doors aren't opened, so I suspect that your first check is the get inside the dash and find the wire that links itself to the pin switch wire from the door pin switch. Check the colour coding of the wires at the door pillar and then follow back under the dash.

 

The Corrado's pin switches are dual switches so it is not conclusive that the courtesy light working is confirmation that the switch and it's connection are OK.

 

Next stick the fob in the socket that matches it's size with the four metal tabs going into the socket first. That will switch the alarm off. Leave a short while and then re-insert. The alarm will be primed again.

 

Failing that, the battery can be disconnected on this alarm without any special set up procedues. So, radio codes etc., known, disconnect the batery for 5 minutes and then reconnect. Beaware in doing this you will also have to setup the engine ECU with a short drive and Basic Settings on group 001. See thread for this .....

 

http://the-corrado.net/.archive/forum/viewtopic. ... c&lighter=

 

That's all you can do. I suspect either the alarm has lost sight of the pin switch earthing as door opens or the alarm has gone faulty. Unfortunately, Conlog went bust around 2000 and no one has taken over direct support of their equipment.

 

 

======================

 

 

bigpants baby.

 

I had that with insurance a while back, even insisting on an annual check. Changed insurance company.

 

Both the Scorpion and Conlog alarms were, were cat 1 alarms. They lost their recognition as such from Thatcham about 5 years ago. Suggest you change the insurance company or you are probably faced with buying a new alarm that meets current cat 1 alarm standards and is recognised by Thatcham on their list.

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I have this conlog alarm on 94 VR6 but the fob doesn't work.

 

Every time I want to start the car i have to manualy overide the imobiliser by sliding the fob in and out of the slot under the glovebox.

 

The lights on the dash (red & yellow) seem to work and when I press the button on the fob the red light on it lights up but it doesn't seem to do anything.

 

Does anyone have a manual or know how to reset one of these things? its getting a bit annoying having to lean over the poassenger every time I want to start the car!

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I have the same alarm, and exactly the same symptoms. It can be a bit dodgy if the keys are in the ignition, but not switched on, and the door shuts while your under the bonnet!!! :shock:

 

My alarm is a conlog, and it's bloody annoying!

 

It automatically locks the car after about 30secs. Very annoying if I need to have the bonnet open - It means I also need to have a door/boot open to avoid the car locking and setting the alarm off.. :roll:

 

Didn't used to lock itself like this. Only started when my car battery went flat last year :scratch:

Cant figure out how the hell to stop it arming after 30secs now. I've got a copy of the manual (kindly sent from VR6Storm) but it doesnt seem to mention how to disable it

 

Hope I havent hijacked your thread bigpants baby :)

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The lights on the dash (red & yellow) seem to work and when I press the button on the fob the red light on it lights up but it doesn't seem to do anything.

 

 

That's commanding the alarm to switch off and then you switching on/off the ignition simply reprimes the alarm. If your battery fob is OK, ie. it quickly blinks red in the fob lens, then try disconnecting the battery da, da, da,.......... Other wise I suspect the alarm module is goosed.

 

Does anyone have a manual or know how to reset one of these things? its getting a bit annoying having to lean over the poassenger every time I want to start the car!

 

I will check the installation manuals tonight. Not aware of a "reset" unless it's in the depths of the documents somewhere.

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Ive just bought a 95 VR6 and pick it up next Tuesday : - ), is there anyway of finding out what alarm is fitted to it as the key fob has no name on it!!!

 

There is no certificate either so I think I will have take it somewhere to get it approved...

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OK as I thought. There is no separate procedure to “reset” the alarm. For those asking, the instruction in the earlier part of this thread to disconnect the battery and reconnect is the last ditch point followed by the obligatory ECU set-up procedure. There is no risk to a normal Conlog 900 doing this nor a power up set-up procedure. It will just come back on and operate normally unlike the Scorpion 5000. If the 900 is faulty, then disconnecting the power to it by pulling the battery earth connection is your risk as to whether it will continue to operate!

 

Programming this alarm used quite comprehensive little piece of kit unlike the later Conlog 900 models. If a VW dealer can be found who remembers how to use the 900 test equipment, and still have it, then they may be able to help. The drawbacks are possibly two fold.

 

You must have the “Master” key fob. It is identified by the LED lens in the fob being red translucent plastic where are as the slave fobs are clear plastic. If that is not in your possession of the Master fob, then nothing can be done with the alarm as the alarm controller under the dash only recognises this fob to do anything to the alarm in terms of set –up or adding fobs (upto six slaves).

 

The second is that the ratio of Conlog trained/installer VW dealerships was 1:4 or there abouts in the mid 1990’s, the other 3: 4 where Scorpion trained/installers VW dealerships. Given, the Conlog alarms stopped being installed when Conlog went bust in 1999, many dealeships have changed franchise, gone bust etc and those who were Conlog based have probably forgotten how to operate the encoding equipment issued for the 900. The 950 & 951 are easier as they used a much simpler method but a code reader is still needed (Have one).

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Thread revival time.

 

I have just started my brothers golf to charge the battery up, put some wind in the tyres and give her a pre sale wash, but the imobiliser keeps triggering and sounding the alarm,

 

She hasn;t been touched for 2-3 weeks so Am guessing it may be flat battery but Im not sure, as per the post is a conlog alarm.

 

anyone???

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Does the alarm try to go off when you switch on the ignition? If it does, and you are sure the immob. is off, then yeah, its most likely the battery!

 

I had this happen to me over the weekend. New battery cured it

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Aye, Dead Battery, Jump started run for a while and all is good, Best not leave it for a few weeks and just expect it to start.

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