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Kevin Bacon

The Forced Induction VR6 thread

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hello guys, I am new to the forum. I can tell you already this is probably where I will be hanging out the most.

 

Welcome to the rapidly expanding VR6 Turbo / SC section :D

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I like how he's intergrated the BOV and WG into the turbo. Zero boost pipework. Makes boost leaks easy to find :D

 

Expertise like that is thin on the ground here and if you can find it, you pay through the nose for it too. Rip off Britain. $8.26 for a gallon of gas. So VRTs aren't currently in high demand :D

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There are plenty of nice looking VRT builds going on over in the states, Vortex is full of them isn't it 8) 8)

 

Sorry for the newbie questions here, i havn't really looked at VR6 engines closely before, let alone ones with Turbos :help: But i have to ask, where is the MAF located on a VR6 Turbo? Inbetween the Air Filter and Turbo?

 

Did you relocate your Master Cylinder or just the brake fluid resevoir?

 

Is your BOV recirculating?

 

Cheers :grin:

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Yep, you mount the MAF to a cone filter and stick that as close to the head light as possible. This stops the turbulance from the compressor blade sucking the air *around* the MAF element instead of over it. It's a good idea to put some mesh over the input side of the MAF aswell to straighten the air flow. It makes the part throttle smoother I find.

 

Oh and the MAF housing needs to be 4" bore, which has 33% more flow than the stock 3" one, otherwise the MAF element will max out and the ECU shuts off the injectors. Nice!

 

With the ATP manifold, you just need to relocate the Brake resevoir and only if you have a large turbo with 4" inlet. A smaller T3/T04e with 3" inlet may not need that doing.

 

I vent to atmosphere mate. With a MAF you need to use a recirculating one valve, otherwise the fuelling goes schitt rich due to the metered air escaping.

 

I use speed density tuning instead (aka a MAP sensor in the intake) which fuels the engine based on manifold pressure instead, so doesn't give a schitt about what kind of Dump valve you use :D

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Thanks Kev, i did notice in your rough guide to a VRT install that your resevoir was still on the left, plenty of useful info in there btw 8)

 

Did you make up your own downpipe when you put the GT35 on too?

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I vent to atmosphere mate. With a MAF you need to use a recirculating one valve, otherwise the fuelling goes schitt rich due to the metered air escaping.

 

yep, it fuels like a bitch sometimes, and gives off rather large back fires out the exhaust which sounds like the corrado is shooting a vauhxall behind...

 

i would do it the way you have mentioned there Kev if i was to start a VRT myself, but as i have the set up i will just put a diverter on. I know the VAG turbos have them, but any reason why the hot air could be a problem in the long run??

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Thanks Kev, i did notice in your rough guide to a VRT install that your resevoir was still on the left, plenty of useful info in there btw 8)

 

Did you make up your own downpipe when you put the GT35 on too?

 

It's on the right now mate, I had to move it for the big 35, but there's plenty of universal resevoirs with sensors online :)

 

I did indeed make up my own downpipe for the 35. I didn't weld it though, my master Tig welder mate did. I cut it all to shape though and took it to him in gaffer taped sections. The last time I tried to weld something I kept blowing holes through the material, so I leave it to the experts :lol:

 

yep, it fuels like a bitch sometimes, and gives off rather large back fires out the exhaust which sounds like the corrado is shooting a vauhxall behind...

 

Hell yeah.... when you change gear, the air the MAF measured gets whoofed out of the BOV and the injectors are fuelled for that air, only it's AWOL, so you get a monster rich flood into the motor. It's not good mate. It does cool your exhaust valves down rather quickly though :lol:

 

i would do it the way you have mentioned there Kev if i was to start a VRT myself, but as i have the set up i will just put a diverter on. I know the VAG turbos have them, but any reason why the hot air could be a problem in the long run??

 

Yeah get a forge 007P on there mate, shouldn't be much work to do.

Hot air? You mean the air routed back into the turbo intake via the recirc valve? No issues with that all mate :salute:

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what have i done??

 

looks like i'm going to be posting in this section again soon :lol: and 2 weeks ago i was gonna be selling the corrado :cuckoo:

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what have i done??

 

looks like i'm going to be posting in this section again soon :lol: and 2 weeks ago i was gonna be selling the corrado :cuckoo:

 

Yaaaayyyy!! :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:

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i would do it the way you have mentioned there Kev if i was to start a VRT myself, but as i have the set up i will just put a diverter on. I know the VAG turbos have them, but any reason why the hot air could be a problem in the long run??

 

Yeah get a forge 007P on there mate, shouldn't be much work to do.

Hot air? You mean the air routed back into the turbo intake via the recirc valve? No issues with that all mate :salute:

 

yeah thats what i meant kev :lol: thanks for the peace of mind!!

 

what have i done??

 

looks like i'm going to be posting in this section again soon :lol: and 2 weeks ago i was gonna be selling the corrado :cuckoo:

 

what have you done then karl?? we have to know :lol:

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well at the moment just bought a 2nd hand ATP cast manifold,

 

i will see how much i can go vrt for, as some of you may know i'm fairly good at finding the bargains :lol:

 

just thinking about the cooling side of things and what do you all think would be the minimum/safe size for an intercooler?? i WONT be going for massive BHP, i think around the 325/350 bhp will ge fine for me, and will be going for a gt30?? so the boost starts early.

 

karl

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be better having a charge cooler tbh, but my intercooler allows mine to get 300bhp on a hot day, more on a cold... can you remember how big mine was mate when marcus had it??

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yeh i know a chargecooler is the best way to go, but i'm thinking about dropping the rad down and then using a narrow but thick intercooler in front of the grille, and using water injection as the boost gets above say 6/8psi.

 

i want to try and use the standard manifold if i can, i just think that yours and charlies look the best due to being able to use the standard manifold.

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yeh i know a chargecooler is the best way to go, but i'm thinking about dropping the rad down and then using a narrow but thick intercooler in front of the grille, and using water injection as the boost gets above say 6/8psi.

 

i want to try and use the standard manifold if i can, i just think that yours and charlies look the best due to being able to use the standard manifold.

 

Charge coolers are great, you should just use the largest heat exchanger you can fit, and a large reservoir. That is preferably not found under the bonnet. In South Florida, most everyone avoids charge coolers because of the heat soak and temperatures down here.

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yeh i know a chargecooler is the best way to go, but i'm thinking about dropping the rad down and then using a narrow but thick intercooler in front of the grille, and using water injection as the boost gets above say 6/8psi.

 

i want to try and use the standard manifold if i can, i just think that yours and charlies look the best due to being able to use the standard manifold.

 

Well yes - charge cooling is better, provided your ambient isn't too high, as in Florida, and your air/water interface [ie cc size] is sufficient to dump surplus heat into the high thermal capacity cooling water, should you, at the end of a hot run, hit traffic, and you have good cooling of the cc.

Both systems depend on air cooling and I'd be amazed if, at this very moment, Crazydave were not working on the design of a fan controller which will respond to the needs of the engine water jacket, the FI air cooling and the oil cooler.

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would you say that £350 is a good price for a brand new GT3076R 8)

 

hope so because thats how much i've just bought one for.

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would you say that £350 is a good price for a brand new GT3076R 8)

 

hope so because thats how much i've just bought one for.

 

Where on earth did you get that?

Can you put my name down please!

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would you say that £350 is a good price for a brand new GT3076R 8)

 

hope so because thats how much i've just bought one for.

 

 

Sounds like a bargain mate, anymore where it came from ? :D

 

Seen this Mk2 R32T running Unitronic? 600whp, bit of drag and dyno action for you

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would you say that £350 is a good price for a brand new GT3076R 8)

 

I would verify it's a genuine Garrett and not a chinese copy before getting too excited.

 

Not saying it's not, but email Garrett the Serial number from the metal tag on the CHRA and see if they can confirm it's one they've made.

 

If it's a chinese copy, it may last 10 miles, it may last 100,000 miles. You can't tell, but considering ATP manifolds are made in china, not *all* chinese turbos are bad.

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