cactusjackslade 10 Posted May 12, 2015 What should I be checking to resolve my newly T'd VRT from stuttering after overrun and when approaching junctions etc? My 1st thoughts are: MAF Lambda Inlet pipework for leaks etc. I thought id ask here as many have years of experience of FI VR6s and though its only just been converted it seems to be getting worse and is hit and miss. I could take it to stealth but id rather eliminate anything obvious if there is a fault. It pulls like crazy when on boost but the stammering when pootling is a PITA. Thanks all. Hi Chris, glad to hear you have ur car back and are enjoying boost. In regards to the stuttering If I remember right both Mat and Nick had the same issue a few days after picking their cars up. Vince had to tweak the mapping slightly once things had settled in. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VAG-hag 0 Posted May 12, 2015 Hey hey!! Take it you are enjoying yours still bud :) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
cactusjackslade 10 Posted May 12, 2015 Oh yes. It's brill lol. I had to learn to dive it again. I cant help but smile every time I hit the go pedal. In the process of getting a boost gauge wired up. Need to get bigger brakes on too. It's finding the time to play though. Hope to bump into u again at a meet. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mk3highline 10 Posted May 12, 2015 http://www.torotrak.com/products-partners/products/v-charge/ Found this it was mentioned early in the thread years ago Hopefully they got similar size to the c38 I'm getting excited now lol Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted May 13, 2015 http://www.torotrak.com/products-partners/products/v-charge/ Found this it was mentioned early in the thread years ago Hopefully they got similar size to the c38 I'm getting excited now lol Interesting! Have any OEMs adopted it? Audi are using electric turbos in forthcoming models to fill the gap until the main turbo kicks in, which sounds pretty cool! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mk3highline 10 Posted May 13, 2015 No not yet and I can't buy one either tight bar stools they got a running car with a prototype So back to trying to find a bracket, Been to tts today to see the size of the c38 rotrex and have a look how it could sit in place and its bigger than I thought and going to struggle to mount it in the usual spot behind head light Either way I need to find a bracket even a c30 to modify Looking like it's going in place of the A/C compressor pump tucked away The phirm do a kit for a mk4 platform but it won't fit on a mk3 as the chassis leg is in way So much for wanting an easy boost fix now I've got a small challenge I hear you saying go with the stealth turbo kit, it's too easy and reliable from the word go CC-R racing I think do the bracket but they want €400 just for the 12v bracket!!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mk3highline 10 Posted May 13, 2015 Some dimensions of the charger I got the old 12v bracket thing for alternator and got the ac pump Looks like it's near enough same size Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted May 13, 2015 Another option is to do what NS Racing / VF Engineering did years ago on MK5s. They ran a driveshaft from the water pump side of the engine (as they don't have a PAS pump) and mounted the charger above the gearbox. Very neat! And as you can see, the charger fires straight into a chargecooler and into the throttle for an ultra short boost path. I like! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mk3highline 10 Posted May 13, 2015 Seen similar rotrex kits for some Hondas not too keen on the shaft running under manifold I've got a machine shop who will fabricate a bracket with a drawing Need to make a drawing!!! One idea is to get another 24v block to use as a jig Hopefully before summer ends Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VR6Pete 0 Posted May 16, 2015 http://www.gruvenparts.com/billet-2-4-vortech-supercharger-pulleys/ Possibly after something producing less boost but keeping options open just now. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EJ Taylor 22 Posted June 2, 2015 mr bacon or anyone else, i did have a look to save asking a question thats probably been asked 1000000000 times.... BUT what do we all think on plugs? want to give the problem child a plug and oil change.. and everyone seems to suggest different... so what do the experts think? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EJ Taylor 22 Posted June 2, 2015 sorry would help if i said about the engine... forced via charger @ 9psi.. 320ish bhp, drive rather hard but not every week, up rated bosch injectors supplied with the charger kit, cams and all usual stuff Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VAG-hag 0 Posted June 2, 2015 I just had mine turbo converted at stealth. They use the plugs from 20v t motor. I can get part number for you later if you like mate? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EJ Taylor 22 Posted June 2, 2015 yer more info the merrier, it seems turbo and charged need different ones, and the main choice is either NGK: BKR5EKU or BKR7E who knoooooooooows Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted June 2, 2015 Yeah 1.8T plugs worked well for me too! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EJ Taylor 22 Posted June 2, 2015 I just had mine turbo converted at stealth. They use the plugs from 20v t motor. I can get part number for you later if you like mate? Yeah 1.8T plugs worked well for me too! do u know if they were gaped differently? or straight fit? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kevin Bacon 5 Posted June 2, 2015 Just drop em in mate, no need to gap. It's only the yanks who get all hung up on gapping because they run too much boost and too much fuel. Euro / UK tuners have never had issues with plug gaps and boosted VRs! These worked REALLY well in my VRT, heat grade 7 - http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/products/spark_plugs/vpower.asp?mode=nml They're cheap (from America) as well as they're copper core iirc, so don't last long, about 7K miles. Engine loved them though. Just seemed to start quicker and run smoother with them. If you can't get hold of them, try the Bosch F5DPOR (I think that's the no) which are Audi S2 plugs. Not cheap, but last! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
VAG-hag 0 Posted June 2, 2015 Ah mate I totally forgot to get part number when I put them back in tonight :( Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EJ Taylor 22 Posted June 3, 2015 (edited) Just drop em in mate, no need to gap. It's only the yanks who get all hung up on gapping because they run too much boost and too much fuel. Euro / UK tuners have never had issues with plug gaps and boosted VRs! These worked REALLY well in my VRT, heat grade 7 - http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/products/spark_plugs/vpower.asp?mode=nml They're cheap (from America) as well as they're copper core iirc, so don't last long, about 7K miles. Engine loved them though. Just seemed to start quicker and run smoother with them. If you can't get hold of them, try the Bosch F5DPOR (I think that's the no) which are Audi S2 plugs. Not cheap, but last! cheers for the info man, tbh that helps me alot as it explains why some say "you an idiot for putting any standard plugs on a boosted VR and some say its fine, but tbh, the people saying its fine are the you lot on the forum and my good friend OBD-Works so i definitely sticking with u guys, ive ran these http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NGK-IRIDIUM-SPARK-PLUGS-x6-VW-CORRADO-2-9-190bhp-VR6-ABV-06-95-BKR5EIX-/151352419806?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item233d4ea5de since ive had the car, and always been perfect, but the last plug change was done by someone other than OBD-works (due to convenient circumstances at the time) and hes one of those I KNOW EVERYTHING guys, and tbh he is good (drag bike pedigree) and he was saying your an idiot for putting standard gaps in bla bla bla and sort of made me feel like a spanner and i let him do the plugs, but since that its started like grap and it seems to be over fueling like mad, i went for a blap the other day and my mate behind me genuinely had to wash his window cus of the fuel splatting on it. So im now going down the "aint broke dont fix" way of thinking and go back with the iridiums as they have always been perfect and ive never had problems with them. so unless you tell me that im about to make a huge mistake and the iridiums will explode my engine then im guna go with those :D Thank you mr bacon! as always your time is appreciated Ah mate I totally forgot to get part number when I put them back in tonight :( no excuse, get back out there, take them out! NOW! haha no worries man, thanks for being helpful anyway, as always :fondle: Edited June 3, 2015 by EJ Taylor Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mk3highline 10 Posted June 3, 2015 I'm partly sure it said somewhere in this thread that it mentioned to start the plug gap at 0.4 -0.5 thou and work the gap up?? But bigger gap will strain the coils? Normally you just go one heat range up (colder) from the standard NGK So go with bkr6eix or 7 like already mentioned using a colder plug will keep the tip of the plug slightly cooler Last thing you want is to melt a plug and take out a piston Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EJ Taylor 22 Posted June 3, 2015 I'm partly sure it said somewhere in this thread that it mentioned to start the plug gap at 0.4 -0.5 thou and work the gap up?? But bigger gap will strain the coils? Normally you just go one heat range up (colder) from the standard NGK So go with bkr6eix or 7 like already mentioned using a colder plug will keep the tip of the plug slightly cooler Last thing you want is to melt a plug and take out a piston bkr6eix.... so does the 6 stand for the heat? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mk3highline 10 Posted June 3, 2015 Yeah for NGK higher the number the colder the plug Which plugs were used when you had over furling problems? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EJ Taylor 22 Posted June 3, 2015 no idea, that chap i refereed to just put them in and gapped them up, so do i want a hotter or colder plug for a higher powered forced VR? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mk3highline 10 Posted June 3, 2015 Colder plug NGK heat range 6 or 7 Iirc the benefit of iridium plugs or anything with precious metals is a longer service life could be wrong I'd recommend getting standard tip plugs (£12-20) in a heat range 7 and see how it drives and take it from there If you get me?? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EJ Taylor 22 Posted June 3, 2015 so does any plug fit any car, im so lost now, can i just get any plug heat rating 7 and away we go? what determines the width/ thread / fitment Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
