The Forced Induction VR6 thread

[Philmo 0]

Hey Kev

Why the drop from 12 to 8 psi with ic? Was it just inefficient plumbing, or a result of charge contraction?

Did you measure the 12psi @ the blower outlet? :scratch:

Phil

[VR6Joni 0]

Over the weekend I took the C out for a few runs and saw 0.6 Bar (8.7psi) at 5K, and though it best to restrain myself at that point. Can anyone else with a Rotrex guestimate what the boost is gonna top out at?

[VR6Joni 0]

Just thought I'd post my findings on the aquamist system which I fitted last weekend. (thanks black dub)

 

Tapping the washer bottle is a PITA, I ended up plastic welding it to make it double thickness.

 

Bleeding the pump is also not very easy, I tried a head of well over a metre and it was having none of it, tried sucking, blowing, sucking and blowing (don't ask) and eventually had to use a bicycle pump to force the water through. But once its through your off. By this point I was getting worried about running it dry though.

 

Anyway I can tell you that it is most certainly effective, when it kicks in I loose a good 2-3psi (good job the hysteresis on the pressure switch covers that) which can only be put down to the cooling of the charge, I'm working on measuring the temperature so hope to post the results in the coming weeks. And I've not even tried it with methanol yet, that should be interesting as I could see the fear in my mate eyes when we went for a spin to test the system :lol:

[Philmo 0]

Just thought I'd post my findings on the aquamist system which I fitted last weekend. (thanks black dub)

 

Tapping the washer bottle is a PITA, I ended up plastic welding it to make it double thickness.

 

Bleeding the pump is also not very easy, I tried a head of well over a metre and it was having none of it, tried sucking, blowing, sucking and blowing (don't ask) and eventually had to use a bicycle pump to force the water through. But once its through your off. By this point I was getting worried about running it dry though.

 

Anyway I can tell you that it is most certainly effective, when it kicks in I loose a good 2-3psi (good job the hysteresis on the pressure switch covers that) which can only be put down to the cooling of the charge, I'm working on measuring the temperature so hope to post the results in the coming weeks. And I've not even tried it with methanol yet, that should be interesting as I could see the fear in my mate eyes when we went for a spin to test the system :lol:

Hi John

So the Aquamist causes a charge contraction giving 2-3 psi pressure loss?

[VR6Joni 0]

Hi John

So the Aquamist causes a charge contraction giving 2-3 psi pressure loss?

 

Roughly yeah, if I dare take my eyes off the road long enough I can actually see the boost stop building momentarily.

 

I was closely monitoring the AFR's earlier today and found that it seems to jump to being a tad too rich when the aquamist kicks, but I can't seem to explain that one, anyone got any ideas on that one?

I would expect it to go leaner when the aquamist kicks in if anything??

And I don't have any meth in there at the moment!

[L3 onp 0]

Hi I'm new here, I don't own a rado vr but I do own a mk2 with a vr in it. Basicly I'm looking to go down the turbo route, in the very near future. I already have a t3/t4 turbo (0.50 ar and 0.48 hot side), I've also got a HUGE intercooler.

 

Aims

To achieve 230-250ftlb torque across 3500-6000rpm, and to keep the car as driveable as possible. Retain an OEM engine bay as possible

 

Method

I plan on using the orginal inlet manifold, for two reasons 1. to help maintain torque, 2. can't afford a short runner yet :(. Still going to keep the compression standard for now, as i'm only looking run 5-7psi. Going keep the orginal ecu, and get it mapped/chipped to suit the mods. Hopefully I should achieve my target torque figure, which should equal around 260-270hp.

I'm keeping it running low boost, because its a light car and doesn't need masses amount of energy to get it going. I still want it to "feel" like mk2 gti, but just with and extra kick.

 

Thats my idea, please feel free to sugguest any pointers

 

After the cars complete to the standard I'm happy with, will I start to build up a spare engine, with low comp pistons and rods. Depending on gains/benefits go mega squirt, to see if the car can be optimised even further.

[big ben 10]

well i can officially post in here now after buying marcus' VRT on saturday morning :D

 

it was on the dyno at surrey rolling road straight after,, and got 294bhp at 0.7 bar... so was a hot day, but going to get a diagnostic test sorted to make sure nothing is at a miss, any advice there be appreciated as the turbo thing is new to me.

 

but anyway, it drives awesome!! the power/torque is insane compared to stock, and its handling is so much better than my old VR, plus them big brakes... talking about brakes, cant believe some forced induction guys are running smaller brakes than these, you be careful coz you definately need them!!!!

 

the car still feels like a stock corrado though which i was impressed with, very smooth nice ride, and even in traffic was great to drive... the only thing that is really different is you loose the refined V6 sound, but who cares about that when it now sounds like it could take off any minute :lol:

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Hi I'm new here, I don't own a rado vr but I do own a mk2 with a vr in it. Basicly I'm looking to go down the turbo route, in the very near future. I already have a t3/t4 turbo (0.50 ar and 0.48 hot side), I've also got a HUGE intercooler.

 

Welcome fella! 1st post and you're straight into Turbo goodness, like your style :D

0.48 hotside is a tad small mate. Will choke the top end. 0.63 is the minimum you need for a T3/T4 T04e on the VR6 imo. 0.48 will work and will spool damn quick, but it will feel like a 1.8T at the top end. i.e. flat and gutless.

 

Aims

To achieve 230-250ftlb torque across 3500-6000rpm, and to keep the car as driveable as possible. Retain an OEM engine bay as possible

 

0.48 T3/T4 torque curve will start dying off past 5000rpm. Get the 0.63, or better still, 0.82 if you want a gid mix of midrange and top end.

 

Method

I plan on using the orginal inlet manifold, for two reasons 1. to help maintain torque, 2. can't afford a short runner yet :(. Still going to keep the compression standard for now, as i'm only looking run 5-7psi. Going keep the orginal ecu, and get it mapped/chipped to suit the mods. Hopefully I should achieve my target torque figure, which should equal around 260-270hp.

I'm keeping it running low boost, because its a light car and doesn't need masses amount of energy to get it going. I still want it to "feel" like mk2 gti, but just with and extra kick.

 

All good :salute:

 

After the cars complete to the standard I'm happy with, will I start to build up a spare engine, with low comp pistons and rods. Depending on gains/benefits go mega squirt, to see if the car can be optimised even further.

 

Wouldn't bother with that unless you're planning on exceeding 400hp. The standard VR6 internals are very strong with boost. Your money would be better spent improving head flow instead, bigger valves and better cams.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

well i can officially post in here now after buying marcus' VRT on saturday morning :D

 

Welcome to the club sir :D

 

it was on the dyno at surrey rolling road straight after,, and got 294bhp at 0.7 bar... so was a hot day, but going to get a diagnostic test sorted to make sure nothing is at a miss, any advice there be appreciated as the turbo thing is new to me.

 

That is a bit down but not unusual for a turbo engine on a hot day. Using the basic principal that doubling the volume of air in the engine double's it's power, you're about 30hp down. Have you got VAG-COM? Scan it and make sure there's no sensor faults etc. Nothing to be concerned about anyway, was probably just the ECU employing it's intake temp protection, although I don't know what parameters C2 put into the software to compensate for air temp increases.

On the open road is where it counts. Much cooler air going over the intercooler compared to a dyno cell.

 

but anyway, it drives awesome!! the power/torque is insane compared to stock, and its handling is so much better than my old VR, plus them big brakes... talking about brakes, cant believe some forced induction guys are running smaller brakes than these, you be careful coz you definately need them!!!!

 

I know mate. It beggars belief that some people double the engine's power and run standard brakes :cuckoo: :lol: Glad you're enjoying the power. The power delivery really suits the Corrado's character imo :D

 

the car still feels like a stock corrado though which i was impressed with, very smooth nice ride, and even in traffic was great to drive... the only thing that is really different is you loose the refined V6 sound, but who cares about that when it now sounds like it could take off any minute :lol:

 

Ay?! VRTs sound LOADS better than standard ones imo! Especially with 3" exhausts. That chunky burbling at idle is one of my favourite exhaust tones of all time :D Know what you mean though. Mine sounds nothing like a VR6 at all. Doesn't even sound like a 6 pot either. The short runner removes all the gruffness, but it's very quiet and civilised, which I like, very stealthy :D

 

I give you a month before you're wanting to turn the boost up. It's very addictive!

[big ben 10]

feels great owning a VRT, and yes VERY addictive!!!! :D

 

already been thinking about bigger turbos and more boost :lol: not going to rush in though, just take it one step at a time.... 300bhp is enough to start me off, im just enjoying driving a corrado after having a few months off!!!

 

i havent got vag.com, thinking of taking it to dave and graham soon so they can have a look over it for me. Needs the trakking doing to...

 

and yeah the power definately suits it, cant believe it feels like it should have that power :lol: marcus was on about changing it over to OBD2 so i can get more out of it, this sound like the way forward??

 

edit: this one doesnt sound stealthy, has a 3inch exhaust with 1 silencer, and it is loud when you put your foot down

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Yeah OBD2 is way better than OBD1 and is pretty much essential if you're going to experiment with bigger turbos etc , or a standalone or what ever tickles your fancy :)

 

3" with 1 silencer, lol, yeah that's not a shrinking violet exhaust then! I'm still using a 2.5" exhaust and it's super quiet. When mine is relieved of it's duty as a daily driver, I'll start playing with 3" exhausts and things 8)

[big ben 10]

Yeah OBD2 is way better than OBD1 and is pretty much essential if you're going to experiment with bigger turbos etc , or a standalone or what ever tickles your fancy :)

 

3" with 1 silencer, lol, yeah that's not a shrinking violet exhaust then! I'm still using a 2.5" exhaust and it's super quiet. When mine is relieved of it's duty as a daily driver, I'll start playing with 3" exhausts and things 8)

 

OBD2 is on my radar then :grin:

 

cant believe you use yours as a daily :cuckoo: :lol: would cost me a fortune because i just want to go fast, and so does the car...

 

maybe i could add another silencer, but i dont even know where the noise is coming from, sounds like air is being dumped left right and centre haha.

[Kevin Bacon 5]

I'm the only VRT owner that does as far as I know :lol:

 

I can't see the point of turboing a VR6 and using it once a month. May aswell enjoy the speed whilst you still can :D

 

You think running VR with a turbo is expensive? How about running a VRT that has 3 turbos? :lol:

 

 

[The_Dude 0]

You think running VR with a turbo is expensive? How about running a VRT that has 3 turbos? :lol:

 

 

 

holey sheet. :shock:

 

interesting short runner too... 8)

[big ben 10]

omg, would love a go in that, 3 turbos is just greedy :lol: any other info on it??

 

yeah its good you do drive it daily, wish i had the bottle and money to do it, the only good thing about not driving it daily is the thrill of getting in it after driving a crappy golf all day :D

[Kevin Bacon 5]

No other info, I just stumbled on the pics whilst looking up VRT stuff on the net :D

 

Looks like 3 very small K03 sized turbos (from a 1.8T) cause it's effectively one turbo per 1000cc, so you don't want anything too big. I bet it sounds immense!

 

I like using mine daily as I get to constantly refine it and it's during the week that all the road captains that need teaching a thing or two come out!

 

interesting short runner too... 8)

 

Interesting is certainly one way to describe it, where as I would call a piece of 3" pipe tacked onto standard runners a bit if a bodge :lol:

[herisites 0]

3 turbos!! :shock: that'd do! :lol: I don't even have one ... yet :nuts:

[The_Dude 0]

 

interesting short runner too... 8)

 

Interesting is certainly one way to describe it, where as I would call a piece of 3" pipe tacked onto standard runners a bit if a bodge :lol:

 

well i meant it looked pretty cool and different, i never said it would work efficiently!

[Philmo 0]

Impressive plumbing - and I thought the inlet good too, despite the VW origins - took some welding skills.

The fuel rail looks standardish too - but how can it fuel properly at that size and with all that heat about? Unless it's running v high pressure?

[big ben 10]

quick question for the forced induction guys...

 

do you lot let the car warm up for long before you drive or do you just take it easy until the right temp?? if you do what temp do you wait for??

 

when i bring it home should i be leaving the fan on for a while to cool it all down or is it safe to just switch it all off??

 

want to make sure i do everything right, just paranoid

[Kevin Bacon 5]

Impressive plumbing - and I thought the inlet good too, despite the VW origins - took some welding skills.

The fuel rail looks standardish too - but how can it fuel properly at that size and with all that heat about? Unless it's running v high pressure?

 

The intake doesn't appear to funnel down at cyls 1 and 2 and therefore not airflow balanced. I'll wager it idles as rough as a badger's arse. On boost, it'll be fantastic, such a tiny plenum to fill and super responsive as the whole boost path is incredibly short.

Fuel rail isn't a problem. You only need big bore fuelling when you're running serious power :D

 

do you lot let the car warm up for long before you drive or do you just take it easy until the right temp?? if you do what temp do you wait for??

 

Just get in it and drive it like a normal VR mate but wait until at least 70 deg oil temp before giving it hard boost.

 

when i bring it home should i be leaving the fan on for a while to cool it all down or is it safe to just switch it all off??

 

I think your turbo is a journal bearing type, so probably an idea to let it slow down before switching off, or just drive the last couple of miles off boost and quite slowly. That only really applies if you've been giving it some. If your journey home was rarely seeing any boost, then just turn it off.

[big ben 10]

thanks a lot kev, put my mind at rest now!! i let it warm to over 90 degrees before putting my foot down, normally 96, then put the fan on and off i go :D

[The_Dude 0]

I always wait for 80 water and 80ish oil before booting it.

[Philmo 0]

I always wait for 80 water and 80ish oil before booting it.

Ditto dood :wave:

[big ben 10]

what oil temp would you guys consider high for a VRT?? (kev anywhere?? :lol:)